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Setting up a 1G T3/T4 for nitrous

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Nos~4G63

20+ Year Contributor
340
2
Jun 2, 2002
Davie, Florida
I am adapting a t3/t4 onto my 90’ GST. Keep in mind this is a very budget oriented setup; Im still in high school and working at Publix 20-25 hours a week. Right now the car is bone stock with free mods. I will be installing:
Boost gauge
255lph in line pump
3inch downpipe dumped under car
to4e, 57 trim, stg. 3, .63ar turbine
35mm external WG
NOS single fogger wet
Spoolinup FPR
Fully ported stock manifold with T3 adapter plate
Looking for a SAFC and Pocketlogger
Im trying to figure how to setup the car and with what injectors. I want to make as much power on the stock intercooler as possible for the time being. Im planning on getting 660cc injectors and spraying a 75shot. How should I set the timing? Are 660 injectors too big? Is a 75 shot overkill?
 
Expect some lag.

660's are good...but with the stock SMIC, keep the boost levels low til you can get a better FMIC.

With nitrous, you better have a metal headgasket. 75 is a fairly big shot, you probably don't need it unless you're going to drag at the tracks. Maybe a smaller shot to help with intake temps (due to the small SMIC).
 
i think a FMIC would be more beneficial to you then running nitrous. the rest of your setup looks great though.

marshall
 
I love the fact that nitrous cools down the intake charge so dramatically and makes massive horsepower for alot less money.
I also have the nitrous kit allready that I put together for about $300.
 
if you already have the nitrous kit, then why not throw it on what you have? it's a lot easier doing things a step at a time than redoing everything at once...it seems like you're trying to go straight from 14's to 11's, that's pretty difficult to do...

marshall
 
:dsm:
I bought the car with a blown turbo and had never heard it run. I got a 14b heard the car run for like 5 minutes then shut it down to tighten the oil drain line. The car hasnt run since(6mo.). My cousin over tightened the bolt and broke it off in the turbo. I had the car towed to my friends shop too remove the bolt but he couldnt do it. I pulled the turbo brought it to a machine shop. The day I picked up the turbo my friend was at my house trying to sell me a T3 for $300. He said it should perform like a 16g so I said wtf lets do it. While I have been looking for a uncracked manifold I found out from my friends at DSMTALK that my T3 was #@%#@%#@%#@% and not woth the money. After all I was purchasing a externall wastegate and numerous flanges for a 16g like power increase. I talked to another friend last friday night who was selling a T3/T4 60-1 for $700 so I began looking into huge garrets. After some research and more help from DSMTALK I decided to go with the T3/T4 To4e 57 trim stg. 3 .63ar turbine. This turbo is everything I wanted and its only $550. @ cheapturbo.com. So now Im gonna order this turbo bolt it on and start tuning. Im just so excited about it that I have to find out more information and talk about it as much as possible:D
 
so you are going to spend all the money on a garrett manifold, external wategate, and downpipe. when you could just get a mutt and run better than you ever will with that setup. dont get me wrong, garrett makes a good turbo (i have one 60-1) but for somone that dosnt have much money you sure are taking the hard and expensive way out.
 
Not really:
1990 Eclipse GST $500
Adapter plate on stock manifold $25 + welding
External wastegate $160
Exhaust dumed under car w/out muffler $100
Nitrous kit $300
Fuel pump $90
Boost gauge $20
Garret to4e/t3 57-trim .63ar Turbine $550
Total with car $1,745
 
Blown motor due to lack of fuel control and upgraded fuel system: $2000
Blown turbo from metal pieces entering the cartridge: $550
Destroyed head from piston pieces hitting the valves and combustion chambers at lightspeed velocity: $500
Calling Aslan crying on the phone because you didn't listen to Aslan: $Priceless.

Regards,
 
Dont worry Aslan I wont spray the car till I get it tuned correctly. :(
Whats up with your Talon?
 
You are going to run into BIG time problems with the setup you are trying to run. Tell you what...you put that big turbo on the car, and I'll race you in my 14B car WITHOUT nitrous and we'll see what happens. You'll be extremely disappointed. You really need to take my advice on this one. Get yourself a stock turbo, and get the car running. First things first, you have no idea how well that motor is running, or what little maintenance issues you may have. I know how it's like to get all excited about a fast car; we've all been there, but I also know it takes a LOT of know how, and also a lot of money, or else everyone would have a fast car. Before slapping that turbo on the car, I suggest bare minimum, you get a good front mount, a PMS, 660cc injectors or perhaps even larger, a ported 95 exhaust manifold in place of your welded stocker, a nice exhaust system, a good fuel pump, and a 3 inch turbo inlet pipe. Even then, I don't reccomend the turbo you have chosen. Get yourself a nice 50 trim with a T3 hi-flow back wheel as found in an ETE32. Your other choice is the Green turbo with the TDO6H wheel, but the T3 hi-flow is a bit nicer. You'll have good spoolup, and still retain good top end power. You can throw as much spray as you want at a T3 hi-flow for the most part. After that stage of the game, you are looking at motor work. Rods, pistons, removed balance shafts, machine work, cylinder head work, stainless valves, upgraded cams, etc. I think marshall said it best...you are trying to jump from 14's to 11's, and it aint gonna happen. Save your money, and get things done the right way. The absolute WORST thing you can do is run an upgraded turbo without supporting mods. You will seriously go SLOWER than with the stock turbo.

Regards,
 
....Dont worry Aslan I wont spray the car till I get it tuned correctly....

More to my point!! What are you gonna tune it with???? You see what I mean? This isn't some backwoods V8 that just makes power by sheer bulk. To make power out of a 4 cylinder, things have to be done dead right. That is why so many people on these boards have spent more money than I've made in a lifetime, and run MUCH slower than my Laser did. It's parts combinations, and tuning of those combinations; not just slap a bunch of parts on, close your eyes and floor it.

Regards,
 
I have no money. I figured I could go faster with a huge turbo and other little #@%#@%#@%#@% than with a stock turbo and front mount etc.
The way you want me to build the car sounds great but it took me like 4 months to get the parts and money I have now and if I dont buy this turbo now it will be a long time before I have a lump of money like this to spend.
I no longer have my 14b the car came with a blown turbo so I threw that away and I borrowed another one from a friend. Now Avi is putting that turbo on his CRX; he is the one who talked me into buying the T3 that I now think is too small. Maybe it would be best for me to put on the little T3 I bought from him (.60ar/.63ar stg?) and buy a set of 550s and spray the car with a 50 shot. Im sure the car would be alot easier for me to tune.
I guess im still a little confused....ok alot confused. I just want the 6months I have been waiting for this car to be done to pay off.
 
Bryan, I don't want to sh!t on your birthday cake, but it takes money to go fast, and anyone who tells you otherwise deserves a swift firm kick in his St. Alabama Hairy. Take the 500 some odd dollars you were going to spend on that turbo, and stick it in a drawer in your room, and save. Add to that a little bit every week, or two weeks, or month, or whatever. Buying that turbo will be a HUGE mistake because the amount of supporting mods you need to make it work worth a damn is going to cost you huge money. So far, your mods should be as follows:
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump $75
K&N air filter $35
RnR O2 eliminator downpipe with external dump $250?
Ported 95 manifold $135
550cc injectors $200
AFC $250?
Ported 14B $200?
Buschur racing upper IC pipe with 95 TB elbow $100?
FPR (spoolinup, B&M, what have you) $35
NOS systems 50 shot wet $Free if you already have it, if not you can prolly find one for $350ish.
The above setup I just mentioned to you will give you your biggest gains for the least amount of money spent. PERIOD. You need to understand; you could bolt on a Turbo that fell out of heaven wrapped in golden fleece and overflowing with milk and honey, but it will do nothing but blow hot air and detonate on your car. Your car will be SLOWER with that turbo on it. Hop online, get to the parts trader, pick yourself up a 14B turbo in good shape, port the turbine housing, get a 95 manifold, and port it, and you'll have the turbo part of the equation taken care of. The above mods I mentioned will give you your absolute BEST performance on a budget. You simply CANNOT go faster than the above setup for the money you are looking to spend. With good tuning and good gas, the car will trap 114+ with the above setup, and maybe 115+ if you pick up a used 7cm exhaust housing to replace the factory 6cm. Including the price of your car, that comes to $35 more than the budget you gave me to work with above. You will have a MUCH more reliable setup, and a much more consistent car. Add a pair of cheap steel wheels and used slicks for like $200, you have a car that will go 12.7's at 114+mph as opposed to a car that will prolly go high 14's at around 94 with the big turbo setup you were planning. Which do you prefer? Are you gonna finally listen to me man? I don't make this sh!t up. ;)

Regards,
 
P.S. I just gave away a huge secret above there. All these 1G guys that have spent thousands upon thousands of dollars to run 13's with all the wrong parts could have spent a little over $1500 including the price of the nitrous kit, and run BETTER than most cars with a 20G/Green/Mutt, FMIC, and built motors with all the wrong parts and tuning. I'll bet I have a lot of people scratching their heads right about now.

Regards,
 
bryan I have a stock turbo you can have for cheap. you pay shipping it should be coming off my car next week when I put on the dual BB t3-t4 turbo car has 103k miles on it but there is no shaft play works great I am just upgrading my car.
 
I wonder if I can get my money from Avi back. I gave him $300 for the turbo and then another $200 later. So far he has only got a adapter plate which is like $25 and when I told him I wanted to get another turbo he was figuring he has spent $75 of the money. I guess I should just live and learn and let him keep what he wants for the hassle and try to get $400 back. Oh yeah btw I also have $270 saved up at my house;)
Now if I could only find a ported 2g mani for $135 and a spoolinup FPR for $35.
I think i will look for a small 16G and port it myself after all how fast did you go on a 16G?:thumb:
Damn Aslan you talk me out of everything:(
 
Originally posted by NosLaser
Bryan, I don't want to sh!t on your birthday cake, but it takes money to go fast, and anyone who tells you otherwise deserves a swift firm kick in his St. Alabama Hairy. Take the 500 some odd dollars you were going to spend on that turbo, and stick it in a drawer in your room, and save. Add to that a little bit every week, or two weeks, or month, or whatever. Buying that turbo will be a HUGE mistake because the amount of supporting mods you need to make it work worth a damn is going to cost you huge money. So far, your mods should be as follows:
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump $75
K&N air filter $35
RnR O2 eliminator downpipe with external dump $250?
Ported 95 manifold $135
550cc injectors $200
AFC $250?
Ported 14B $200?
Buschur racing upper IC pipe with 95 TB elbow $100?
FPR (spoolinup, B&M, what have you) $35
NOS systems 50 shot wet $Free if you already have it, if not you can prolly find one for $350ish.
The above setup I just mentioned to you will give you your biggest gains for the least amount of money spent. PERIOD. You need to understand; you could bolt on a Turbo that fell out of heaven wrapped in golden fleece and overflowing with milk and honey, but it will do nothing but blow hot air and detonate on your car. Your car will be SLOWER with that turbo on it. Hop online, get to the parts trader, pick yourself up a 14B turbo in good shape, port the turbine housing, get a 95 manifold, and port it, and you'll have the turbo part of the equation taken care of. The above mods I mentioned will give you your absolute BEST performance on a budget. You simply CANNOT go faster than the above setup for the money you are looking to spend. With good tuning and good gas, the car will trap 114+ with the above setup, and maybe 115+ if you pick up a used 7cm exhaust housing to replace the factory 6cm. Including the price of your car, that comes to $35 more than the budget you gave me to work with above. You will have a MUCH more reliable setup, and a much more consistent car. Add a pair of cheap steel wheels and used slicks for like $200, you have a car that will go 12.7's at 114+mph as opposed to a car that will prolly go high 14's at around 94 with the big turbo setup you were planning. Which do you prefer? Are you gonna finally listen to me man? I don't make this sh!t up. ;)

Regards,

:thumb:

Damn that was the best post I've seen in months!

If anyone wants to argue with that then :xnuts:
 
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