Thoughts on this block holding up?

[LilGdsm]

I'm going to spray a wet direct port shot on this motor and setup. Everythings stock in the bottom and compression is solid across the line. I'm thinking I'll spray around a 100 shot.

Has anyone else done this and will it hold it on a solid tune?

6 bolt Bottom
Rebuilt head
HKS Head gasket w/ ARP Studs
EVO III 16g fully ported
EVO III O2 Housing ported
3" Turbo Back
HKS 264 I/E Cams
Venom Adjustable Cam Gears
Forrester Racing Intake
ETS Short Route FMIC
780cc Injectors
255 Walbro
Stage 3 Chip and MAFT (no AFC, no problems, chip kicks ass)

I'm running one step colder NGK Iridium plugs and I'll go another step or so colder for the shot.

My plan is about 25psi on race gas then the 100 shot in 2nd gear, anyone done this?

 

[GSGoinFast]

I'm going to spray a wet direct port shot on this motor and setup. Everythings stock in the bottom and compression is solid across the line. I'm thinking I'll spray around a 100 shot.

Has anyone else done this and will it hold it on a solid tune?

6 bolt Bottom
Rebuilt head
HKS Head gasket w/ ARP Studs
EVO III 16g fully ported
EVO III O2 Housing ported
3" Turbo Back
HKS 264 I/E Cams
Venom Adjustable Cam Gears
Forrester Racing Intake
ETS Short Route FMIC
780cc Injectors
255 Walbro
Stage 3 Chip and MAFT (no AFC, no problems, chip kicks ass)

I'm running one step colder NGK Iridium plugs and I'll go another step or so colder for the shot.

My plan is about 25psi on race gas then the 100 shot in 2nd gear, anyone done this?

i dont know about your bottom end being able to handle it, but ditch the iridium plugs and get regular old colder NGK copper ones if your gonna spray

 

[LilGdsm]

i dont know about your bottom end being able to handle it, but ditch the iridium plugs and get regular old colder NGK copper ones if your gonna spray

I've sprayed a 100 shot on an 03 Accord with one step colder iridiums, they are nitrous friendly. BTW, new Hondas come stock with iridiums.

Might go copper for a cheapness factor.

 

[anconover]

so honda's come with iridiums stock, must be a great plug to spray on in a dsm. But really, ive always kept to the ngk golds, my friend had some problems with iridium, and they really arent worth the money IMO. Bottom end should hold up, for how long is the question tho. I wanted to spray a 50-75shot on my car, (50trim at 26psi on racegas) but im sure the stock bottom end wont like it much. Once or twice id be fine.

Were you going to spray only 2nd gear, or START spraying in 2nd gear? sorry just was confusing.

Also start of with the boost lower, your going to creep probly 2-4psi with n2o. Id look into a semi smaller shot personally too, your going to gain over 100hp from the n2o, wich is iffy on the bottom end.

 

[LilGdsm]

just saying an iridium plug is nitrous friendly.

start spraying in second, I usually like to use a RPM window switch, but I have a dual stage stutter box that will hold it at 6000 rpm between shifts, so it woudl spray at that point and well that would be bad. I'm thinking a nice ricey push button on the steering wheel, a little F an F crap.

 

[GSGoinFast]

just saying an iridium plug is nitrous friendly.

start spraying in second, I usually like to use a RPM window switch, but I have a dual stage stutter box that will hold it at 6000 rpm between shifts, so it woudl spray at that point and well that would be bad. I'm thinking a nice ricey push button on the steering wheel, a little F an F crap.

i dont think iridiums are nitrous friendly. plus there a waste of money.

 

[LilGdsm]

i dont think iridiums are nitrous friendly. plus there a waste of money.

I know from personal experience they are great plug for heavy shots of nitrous. Copper is also a good plug, but iridiums tend to run $4 more a plug. Platinum plugs on the other hand are a no no. HKS and GReddy sell Iridium plugs for nitrous applications as well as other companys. A simple search also nets the same results I've discovered running iridiums and nitrous.

Back to the point, has anyone done this on a stock block.

 

[GSGoinFast]

Let me make this easy: If you own a N/T car and need a plug for nitrous read this....

- Your standard plug is BKR6ES in a N/T
- For nitrous use a BKR7ES (one range colder hense the 7)
- Cant find it? http://www.clubplug.net/retail_complete_ngk.html ($2.00 ea must buy 10, you will need them) Scroll 1/3 of the way down.
- Your standard Gap is .050 (I believe) trim that down to .035 minimum and go from there. If you have misfire (ie. backfireing hesitation surging etc.) gap tighter.
- You will need to change your plugs every 3-4 bottles of nitrous. Just do it and don't think about it. Nitrous loves to eat up plugs thats why your buying 10.

DO NOT USE: Turbo car plugs BPR7ES, Platinum, Double Platinum, Iridium, Splitfire or any other garbage on a Nitrous car. Period end of story. I don't care if the box is prettier, your buddy says he got a 100hp increase from them whatever. Use COPPER only on a NITROUS car. If you have nitrous, you can no longer buy plugs like an N/A car so stop reading stuff on the internet designed for an N/A car because you are not an N/A car you are a nitrous car and none of that information partains to you.

This information has been given out in this thread a few times already and people are not reading or understanding. Reasons why not to use certain plugs have been given over and over. If your not going to listen then why keep posting asking the same questions over and over?

hes talking about an NT car, but more importantly about the use of iridiums with nitrous. your car would be a nitrous car then

 

[cstarritt]

just saying an iridium plug is nitrous friendly.

start spraying in second, I usually like to use a RPM window switch, but I have a dual stage stutter box that will hold it at 6000 rpm between shifts, so it woudl spray at that point and well that would be bad. I'm thinking a nice ricey push button on the steering wheel, a little F an F crap.

has anyone ever made a switch that requires the clutch to be all the way out for the nitrous to spray? combined with a window switch i think that would give you good control over when it sprays.

 

[LilGdsm]

has anyone ever made a switch that requires the clutch to be all the way out for the nitrous to spray? combined with a window switch i think that would give you good control over when it sprays.

that's a good idea, you could use a NC relay in the ground of the nitrous solenoid's relay. That way it would pull the ground open when you see the clutch engaged.

 

[GSGoinFast]

that's a good idea, you could use a NC relay in the ground of the nitrous solenoid's relay. That way it would pull the ground open when you see the clutch engaged.

most kits have a WOT switch to activate it, and with a WOT switch that switch would be redundant

 

[cstarritt]

well if you keep your foot down on the gas while you shift, then the wot switch doesnt cut it. i guess you could lift your foot a bit, but then you are counting on your ability to keep the pedal slightly off the floor while shifting.

 

[LilGdsm]

most kits have a WOT switch to activate it, and with a WOT switch that switch would be redundant

I don't think you understand. Considering shifting would be wot cuz of the stutter box, you wot switch would never shut off nitrous spray which would be bad during the stutter box shift. If you were to pull the clutch pedal engagement switch output to a relay in the solenoid's ground then each time you press the clutch in the relay would open the ground and shut off the nitrous, but once off the clutch you would be back to spraying.

thus you have a wot switch to activate the system, and the clutch relay to kill between shifts.