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Adding WET NITROUS to 18G

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TSIsean

15+ Year Contributor
113
1
Jan 22, 2004
Lasalle,
I'm going to be adding a WET NITROUS kit to my 1G.
I have a full OEM rebuild 15000KMS ago with a metal headgasket and ARPs.

I have an 18G, 264s, 190LPH, 550cc, FMIC ETC. (mods in the profile).

I also have a Wideband 02 from Zeitronix.

I think I'm going to use the wet kit from ZEX, my AFRs right now are still really rich like 10 -11 :1 at WOT becase I have yet to tune much so I think my car is definitly not short on fuel.

I did all the research and from what I gather (metal HG, ARPs and fuel system) I'm all set to run nitrous,,, also i will prolly turn the boost down from 22 to 20 to make sure i don't get any creep.


can anyone think or any problems or concerns. I'll prolly run a 55 shot. or should i run more?
 
TSIsean said:
Sorry, CORRECTION from 22 to 20 to COMPENSATE for any creep.

You will get boost creep from the nitrous for sure, so start lower than 20psi to start just to be safe. You will probablly see a 3-4psi creep with nitrous. Your 55hp shot will provide ou with 100whp or so which is a nice addition to your turbo power. Make sure your on some serious octane 110+ so your don't end up with killer detonation.

The air fuel ratio on a turbo car is nice aroudn 11.7-12.2 however on a nitrous car you want to be richer into the 11.0 - 11.3 range so where you are right now would be ok for nitrous too. Add extra fuel to start and aim for 10.5 and work up from there. I woudl also start with a smaller shot than 55 again to start. Just see how your setup reacts to nitrous. Your gonna feel instant spool and a lot of power come on at once so be prepared for that. Just keep an eye on your afr and your boost level then you can do some calculations for that.

Also make sure your two ranges colder on plugs for sure and your not using platinum or anything like that. Iridium are ok.
 
Dam, Race gas? I really wanted to make this a pump gas car. OH well,, rather have a race gas car then a no motor car, LOL.

I think I'll have to start with a 55 as the kit only comes with that but I've got my WB to let me know whats up, and a good friend to tune with so he can watch the logs etc.... I also have a knock gauge (via keydiver chip) so I'll notice any detonation right away.
Thanks for the info.
 
Race gas would be safest but I have heard of people spraying 50-75 on pump gas with no ill effect's. With the gauges and monitoring device's that you have you should be fine on pump gas, but if the race gas is readily available it can't hurt.
 
Nos~4G63 said:
Race gas would be safest but I have heard of people spraying 50-75 on pump gas with no ill effect's. With the gauges and monitoring device's that you have you should be fine on pump gas, but if the race gas is readily available it can't hurt.

Yeah of course, with low enough boost and a low enough shot you can do it on pump gas. However you will exceed the limits of pump gas with just the 18G alone, never mine that and nitrous.

The reason I said race gas is because your turbo setup is capable of maxing out pump gas performance on it's own. To get the max from nitrous and turbo together you want 22-25psi of boost and a 75-100hp shot (or more if your trans will take it). To do that you need race gas, but you will acheive monster HP which is what turbo and nitrous are good for, lots of HP on a smaller budget.
 
I had an 18g on my talon ran 20 psi and a 50 shot with no problems on pump gas. It would creep to about 23 or 24. But if I had race gas I would have used it :thumb:
 
are you guys running any method of timing/spark control for you nitrous/turbo setups?
 
I'm not but I'm only running a 50 shot. Any more than that and I would be retarding the timing a bit
 
Hey I just noticed you said:

A 55HP wet shot, would provide about 100WHP - is this correct?

Why so much? Thanks!
 
On a turbo car the cooling effects of nitrous really help recover power lost to heat during the compression of the turbo.

So most people actually see nearly double returns on shots up to 100. I suggest you get an RPM window switch as well. That way you can set the RPM you want to start spraying at and you can set the RPM to turn it off. The switches are cheap ($80) and very easy to install.

It will save your motor if you miss a shift and go WOT without knowing.
 
Jeff_Jeske said:
On a turbo car the cooling effects of nitrous really help recover power lost to heat during the compression of the turbo.

So most people actually see nearly double returns on shots up to 100. I suggest you get an RPM window switch as well. That way you can set the RPM you want to start spraying at and you can set the RPM to turn it off. The switches are cheap ($80) and very easy to install.

It will save your motor if you miss a shift and go WOT without knowing.
i would agree with the window switch for over revving but you will want to run the nitrous throughout the powerband. if you cut it off you will not be happy as you will notice a GIANT power loss.
 
Please listen to DSMJIM--run race gas,110 octane at least.It's just a smart thing to do!Yes u can run without it, but do you want to risk your motor for 20.00?I've ran my bone stocker on 75hp shot a few times -- but always ran C16 while doing so.good luck and remember--it's all about having FUN!!!!
 
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