Idleing problems and a few others -.-

Kryptikronic · 08-22-2012, 09:06 PM

I have a 97 talon 4wd. Bought it about a week ago in town.
The guy seemed to be a decent mechanic and knew his stuff.
I drove the car for awhile and one day it wouldn't start.
I'm getting fuel, getting spark, after awhile it will start.
Has some electrical problems, possibly a bad ground. No blinkers, brights dash light blinks once in awhile. Dash lights fluctuate brighter and dimmer while drivin.
It seems the car wants to idle anywhere from 800 to 2000 rpms
Whenever it wants. It runs and shifts great. New at this and need help,
Want to make this a awesome car. Help!

hamidun9 · 08-22-2012, 11:17 PM

About the idling issue you should start off checking your idle screw. Same thing happened to mine. By adjust the screw according it can help your idle issues

91FWDSM · 08-23-2012, 11:51 PM

Is your battery dummy light on? Symptoms sound similar to when my alternator was failing. I would check the main fuse for the charging system and the alternator. In my situation I was getting the infamous "idle surge" because of my alternator. I also got dimming lights and random electrical issues.

Spoolin92GSX · 08-23-2012, 11:55 PM

^+1, at least half a dozen of my local DSM friends have killed alternators in the last couple months and these are almost exactly the same symptoms. Time for a Saturn swap!

Kryptikronic · 08-24-2012, 02:59 PM

Fuses are okay, guy also replaced the alternator before I bought it. Got receipts.
I noticed that when he installed the 3" exhaust he didnt put in a downstream o2 sensor.
Also when I get it started after it throws it's fit for awhile it bogs until I rev it out of it.
Smells like gas pretty heavily too. How do I adjust the Idleing screw and where do I want it?

And no the battery light is off. Only light while driving is the check engine light.

256gsxvr4 · 08-24-2012, 03:24 PM

as far as the idle issue is concerned I would be willing to bet the car is no longer using the stock fuel pump and has more than likely been upgraded to a walpro 255. which is great but will require a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator to make sure you do not get to much fuel.

Also as stated before you may need to adjust the idle screw to get the engine to idle properly and check for vaccum/boost leaks.

Spoolin92GSX · 08-24-2012, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kryptikronic

Fuses are okay, guy also replaced the alternator before I bought it. Got receipts.
I noticed that when he installed the 3" exhaust he didnt put in a downstream o2 sensor.
Also when I get it started after it throws it's fit for awhile it bogs until I rev it out of it.
Smells like gas pretty heavily too. How do I adjust the Idleing screw and where do I want it?

And no the battery light is off. Only light while driving is the check engine light.

The downstream o2 sensor is just to monitor the catalytic converter, has zero effect on engine performance. That MAY be all your CEL is too.

Having a new alternator doesn't mean a whole lot if it's a reman from Autozone/similar, others could attest to that. I would have it tested to be sure.

I don't remember the process off top of my head, but there's a process on VFAQ.com that outlines how to set the BISS screw.

Have you checked the code for the check engine light?

EDIT: The battery could also be low and causing the hard starts. Have you checked voltage?

goldeninja20 · 08-24-2012, 06:46 PM

do a boost leak test.i had a similar problem with hard starts and crazy idle. boost leak test solved my problem

Vet-Slayer · 08-24-2012, 11:11 PM

Check your manifold vacuum pressure,and PCV systems for possible idle issues as well.Your fuel pump may be going check the fuel pressure.You may also have a leaking injector that would cause a hard start when cold.Also you should check your ignition timing.

Kryptikronic · 08-26-2012, 12:56 PM

I got three codes for an o2 sensor and one for a temp sensor. Also realized my manifold is leaking out of the front. No idea where to even start. -_-

91mits · 08-26-2012, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kryptikronic

I got three codes for an o2 sensor and one for a temp sensor. Also realized my manifold is leaking out of the front. No idea where to even start. -_-

you need to first change the coolant temp sensor. its gonna make u run in closed loop and ecu is going to try to dump fuel as its seeing higher coolant temp sensors, which is why like you said you smell alot of fuel, its running pig rich,then go with o2 and fix the exhaust leak, it could cause your o2 to misread and get a code.

the coolant temp is at the thermostat housing, with two prongs, the sensor itself is around 20$ at a local auto parts, change that, then fix the exhaust leak, and check if the bad o2 sensor code still comes on.

Kryptikronic · 08-26-2012, 09:14 PM

Best place to get a turbo manifold gasket? May as well go high dollar. Got a temp sensor with the car not installed but the threads seem to go in rough and it looks a bit different from the old one. Prongs fit fine tho. :\ don't want to just crank it in there. Should I just go get another since theyre cheap?

91mits · 08-26-2012, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kryptikronic

Best place to get a turbo manifold gasket? May as well go high dollar. Got a temp sensor with the car not installed but the threads seem to go in rough and it looks a bit different from the old one. Prongs fit fine tho. :\ don't want to just crank it in there. Should I just go get another since theyre cheap?

local dealership or autoparts or any vendors out here, and just buy a new c.t.s. its 20$ one less headache to deal with.

Kryptikronic · 08-27-2012, 04:48 PM

I ended up buying a new thermostat housing and all the hardware, should I get new lines while im at it? And if I get bigger hoses will it hurt something or help cool off quicker, or no effect?

Spoolin92GSX · 08-27-2012, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kryptikronic

I ended up buying a new thermostat housing and all the hardware, should I get new lines while im at it? And if I get bigger hoses will it hurt something or help cool off quicker, or no effect?

If you're doubtful of the condition of your current lines (assuming you're talking about the smaller ones that go to the TB) you might as well, it's just generic cut to length heater hose. Definitely stick with the same size though, larger diameter hose won't fit the ports and you'll leak.

Kryptikronic · 08-28-2012, 10:54 AM

Cool. So replacing this should fix my idling problem?

Spoolin92GSX · 08-28-2012, 11:57 AM

Replacing the o2 sensor will most likely make the biggest difference, everything else will help too though.

synthetek · 08-28-2012, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spoolin92GSX

Replacing the o2 sensor will most likely make the biggest difference, everything else will help too though.

Only if its the front o2 thats causing the codes, if its there rear than it wont change anything. Change the coolant temp sensor and check for boost leaks.

iugrad92turbo · 08-28-2012, 01:08 PM

Terry's Talon Troubleshooting Tips #3 - Fast Idle (aka. Idle Surge)

Kryptikronic · 08-30-2012, 04:48 PM

Having trouble finding the gasket that connects the housing for the temp sensor to the block.
Any pointers?

Spoolin92GSX · 08-30-2012, 11:56 PM

Here you go.

Dealer would also be able to order it.

Kryptikronic · 08-31-2012, 10:03 PM

Thanks, now the waiting game for 2-5 business days.. -_-

Kryptikronic · 09-06-2012, 02:48 PM

I cannot find, no matter where I look, the gasket with two main holes and four bolt holes to the elbow output o2 housing. Goes from the turbo manifold to the housing. Helpppp.

Scratch that. Found it on jnztuning.com

Kryptikronic · 09-12-2012, 04:23 PM

So I got everything put back together soundly, but I noticed next to my turbo a little cylinder with a knob on it that says boost. Now when I was grabbing at stuff I turned it then turned it again to read it, and let's just say I lost the original position. Now I'm sure that turns up and down boost and I don't want anything to freak out so how do I turn the boost back to normal? It's the stock turbo.

Rene1998gsx · 09-14-2012, 07:45 PM

Heloo dsm tuners im in need of help with my 2g gsx. I bought it about 2 months ago now and it wasnt starting, i got it to start about 3 weeks ago but now the idle is bad going up n down from about 900-1200 rpm. Also when i press down on the clutch and also when i turn on the a/c. Rpms will sometimes drop all the way down n turn off. So far i already put in new crankposition sensor,cam position sensor, idle air conrol valve, cleaned the throttle body, tryed adjusting the biss but rpms still drop..Im thinking of getting a new throttle position sensor but i dont think its bad since im not getting a check engine light?? If anyone can help i would greatly apreciate it!! Thank you

DSM420REVAMP · 09-16-2012, 01:19 PM

"I drove the car for awhile and one day it wouldn't start.
I'm getting fuel, getting spark, after awhile it will start.
Has some electrical problems, possibly a bad ground. No blinkers, brights dash light blinks once in awhile. Dash lights fluctuate brighter and dimmer while drivin.
It seems the car wants to idle anywhere from 800 to 2000 rpms"

As for your lights fluctuating while driving and your car not starting one day after starting fine before, chances are your voltage regulator is bad in your alternator. It won't cause the alternator to stop working however it will cause you alternator to charge your battery without regulation. Thus killing your battery.