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Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.

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Old 08-21-2012, 02:26 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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From: Hayward, California
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2g Camber kits?


Hi there i have just recently bought lowering springs for my gsx, i was just wondering what kind or brand of camber kits should i get? can anybody link me to them? thanks in advance



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Old 08-21-2012, 02:52 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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All a camber kit is, is bolts and washers...I suggest you just do it yourself instead of paying $25 for a "kit" wich will only entail bolts and washers. 8bolts with 7washers and 1 crush washer on each bolt. But if you insist buying it from a vendor, check STM they are like $24


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Old 08-21-2012, 02:55 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dert View Post
All a camber kit is, is bolts and washers...I suggest you just do it yourself instead of paying $25 for a "kit" wich will only entail bolts and washers. 8bolts with 7washers and 1 lock washer on each bolt.
can you please link me on which to buy?

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Old 08-21-2012, 02:57 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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For whatever reason links arnt posting from my phone, just google 2g camber kit, stm's kit is the first one to come up


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Old 08-21-2012, 03:01 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Here you go http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...camber_kit.htm


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Old 08-21-2012, 03:46 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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http://www.roadraceengineering.com/camberplate.htm
http://www.jnztuning.com/product_inf...fb9adfb298f5d1
http://www.jnztuning.com/product_inf...850e8e6a6a4547
http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/Mits...i_Eclipse.html


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Old 09-03-2012, 11:43 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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i would go with the ingalls camber kit, unless you can find the spc control one for the full slide of the ball joint but considering they are discontinued your options are slim, i also would like to note that if you do find spc ones they are going to run you like almost 500 hundred

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Old 09-03-2012, 11:52 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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They actually sell the SPC adjustable ball joints at Oreilleys. They run between $80-90 per side. That is for the upper ball joint for front camber adjustment. There are two ranges you can get with the SPC ball joints. SPC also sells the rear setup also. Hope this helps and good luck.


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Old 09-03-2012, 12:22 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Ingalls is your best bet, But you have to know how many degrees you need to get to spec (Front Kit), the rear once, you can get any Ingalls Kit and it will work.
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:31 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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Out of curiosity, why does a person with a 2G AWD think that they need a front camber kit?

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Old 09-03-2012, 11:25 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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Don't use the adjustable ball joints if the car is lowered, makes the control arms hit the fender well area.
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Old 09-03-2012, 11:44 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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I have heard ingalls works the best, but thats all hearsay. cinder, your great with suspension and have answered many of my questions, but isnt a 2g awd thats lowered going to need a front camber kit or will it need more toe adjustment out back if the back is lowered as well?

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Old 09-04-2012, 08:39 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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Toe will need adjusted in all 4 corners no matter what. But I bet if you measured front camber and you didn't slam the car to the ground, it will probably be a reasonable amount up front (no, not stock, but not ridiculously cambered). The rear will need to be adjusted though.


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Old 09-04-2012, 08:54 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m1nd64m3 View Post
Don't use the adjustable ball joints if the car is lowered, makes the control arms hit the fender well area.
Wonder why mine never hit the fender then. I must have a one of a kind car that can be lowered and usw sliding ball joints without the arms hitting the fender.

Depends on the drop height. Its not the joints themselves since the only add like 1/2 " to the top of the ball joint area


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Old 09-04-2012, 09:42 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpiderGST View Post
They actually sell the SPC adjustable ball joints at Oreilleys. They run between $80-90 per side. That is for the upper ball joint for front camber adjustment. There are two ranges you can get with the SPC ball joints. SPC also sells the rear setup also. Hope this helps and good luck.
Same at autozone actually surprised me
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:53 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed1380 View Post
Same at autozone actually surprised me
and ebay.


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Old 09-04-2012, 09:59 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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SPC Offered both at one time, an Adjustable balljoint, and an adjustable Upper control arm (since discontinued)
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:55 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJcanada View Post
Wonder why mine never hit the fender then. I must have a one of a kind car that can be lowered and usw sliding ball joints without the arms hitting the fender.

Depends on the drop height. Its not the joints themselves since the only add like 1/2 " to the top of the ball joint area
It is the balljoints themselves that cause this. Hold a oem ball joint next to an adjustable ball joint and you will see just how much longer the body of the adjustable joint is. This causes the control arm to sit at a much greater upward angle which causes contact, and it is very jarring when it bottoms out the control arm to the fender. Search around, many people have had this problem. Mine was lowered on the tokkiko illumina shocks with the tokkiko springs, giving it between a 1.5-1.75" drop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4g63tc View Post
SPC Offered both at one time, an Adjustable balljoint, and an adjustable Upper control arm (since discontinued)
I believe spc discontinued the adjustable arm due to a problem with them cracking if I remember correctly.

Last edited by m1nd64m3; 09-04-2012 at 06:57 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:04 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #19 (permalink)
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I used the STM rear camber kit, Which is longer bolts and washers.

Worked just fine.
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Old 09-05-2012, 04:17 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJcanada<br />
Wonder why mine never hit the fender then. I must have a one of a kind car that can be lowered and usw sliding ball joints without the arms hitting the fender.<br />
<br />
Depends on the drop height. Its not the joints themselves since the only add like 1/2 " to the top of the ball joint area
<br />
<br />
It is the balljoints themselves that cause this. Hold a oem ball joint next to an adjustable ball joint and you will see just how much longer the body of the adjustable joint is. This causes the control arm to sit at a much greater upward angle which causes contact, and it is very jarring when it bottoms out the control arm to the fender. Search around, many people have had this problem. Mine was lowered on the tokkiko illumina shocks with the tokkiko springs, giving it between a 1.5-1.75" drop.<br />
<br />
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4g63tc<br />
SPC Offered both at one time, an Adjustable balljoint, and an adjustable Upper control arm (since discontinued)
<br />
<br />
I believe spc discontinued the adjustable arm due to a problem with them cracking if I remember correctly.
I know the difference thats pretty obvious. I'm the one that installed the lowering kit on my car and its 1.5"(eibach lowering springs) maybe 1.75" can't remember. I've never had this problem with mine.


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