2G: 96 gsx rear axles

[Sinister96]

Ok long story short wheel bearing went, tried to change it, the whole axle stuck in hub situation, took it to (i know, i know) MIDAS to see if they could free it. It was a no go. the messed the threads up a little, i tried again, messed the threads up more. Finally pulled the whole axle and hub\bearing out had the threads redone, bearing put on. 1 week later bearing is toast, assuming its because the threads werent done right and the bolt could be tightened down like it should. So looking for a new axle i called dsm graveyard to buy one of their 2g racing axles. Talk to the sales rep at graveyard and what he described his axle as isnt what i have. He said the axle should just slide in and out of the read diff and should have a cv joint on the end. WELL here the thing mine does, Its a tri-ball-bearing type cv joint. Now if they don't have the same thing i have where the hell do i get one. ive posted on Facebook in a few spots and called around to the dsmer's i know, but still no answer. Am hoping som of you veterans at this dsm game can lend me a hand. I'm really freaking frustrated here.

ok i tried to load pics of the diff. It says Vicious LSD
JFH
(chinese) 3.307

[trboeclpse98]

Can you post a picture of the axle that you are looking for?

[Sinister96]

well having problems with uploading the photos but heres a link to my FB= https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...0145116&type=3

[bryanwheat]

Your link doesn't work. Right click on the picture that you have on FB than click copy image location. From there type [img] copy your location [/img]

[Sinister96]

hows this?

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...47951218_n.jpg

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...69247386_n.jpg

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...36365735_n.jpg

[Snot Rocket]

That don't look right. The diff end looks right. But the wheel end should have a cv joint just like the diff end. Are both sides the same way?

[Sinister96]

the outer joint isnt a normal tri-ball, the shaft has splines and a c-clip at the end, it goes into a different type of cv joint, wish i would have took pics of it all when it was apart the last time. its hard to explain, theres a female splined end, with a "bearing ring" that holds about 7 or 8 bearings in it. ill try to find a pic on goggle for ya. but that doesnt explain why the graveyard sales rep said the diff side should NOT have a cv joint on it. maybe manual and auto axles are different, idk, im really lost.

ok here it is, heres the wheel side cv joint....http://www.2jsautomotive.com/wp-cont...1/CV-joint.jpg

[bryanwheat]

Originally Posted by Snot Rocket

That don't look right. The diff end looks right. But the wheel end should have a cv joint just like the diff end. Are both sides the same way?

Looks normal to me. The wheel side does have a cv joint, it is just real greasy so it is not easy to make out in the pic.

[Sinister96]

and the diff side is one of these...http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j0...OT-CT-704-.jpg


yea i just re-greased the joints before i put the axle back in, my clamp snaped though, which is the reason for all the grease

and after looking at this last pic couldnt i just pull off the tri ball bearing and put it on the graveyard axle?

[bryanwheat]

Originally Posted by Sinister96

Ok long story short wheel bearing went, tried to change it, the whole axle stuck in hub situation, took it to (i know, i know) MIDAS to see if they could free it. It was a no go. the messed the threads up a little, i tried again, messed the threads up more. Finally pulled the whole axle and hub\bearing out had the threads redone, bearing put on. 1 week later bearing is toast, assuming its because the threads werent done right and the bolt could be tightened down like it should. So looking for a new axle i called dsm graveyard to buy one of their 2g racing axles. Talk to the sales rep at graveyard and what he described his axle as isnt what i have. He said the axle should just slide in and out of the read diff and should have a cv joint on the end. WELL here the thing mine does, Its a tri-ball-bearing type cv joint. Now if they don't have the same thing i have where the hell do i get one. ive posted on Facebook in a few spots and called around to the dsmer's i know, but still no answer. Am hoping som of you veterans at this dsm game can lend me a hand. I'm really freaking frustrated here.

ok i tried to load pics of the diff. It says Vicious LSD
JFH
(chinese) 3.307

Are you saying that you didn't torque the nut after the new bearing was installed? IF the end of the axle is mushroomed out than grind it to where the nut will fit on it and clean up the threads with a file. It's not hard to do if you take your time. It would also be a real good idea to get those boots sealed up right. By the way the writing is Japanese not Chinese.

Originally Posted by Sinister96

and the diff side is one of these...http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j0...OT-CT-704-.jpg

That is how it should be.

[Sinister96]

ok thx that clears up a few things...but i took the axle to a thread grinder shop and he ####ed it up enough where theres not enough material left, he cut to deep for the nut, they milled and lathed it but to much, and if thats the correct axle, where do i buy a new one, seeing that graveyard said theres just slide in the diff without the use of the cv joint, or is the graveyard sales rep talking out his a**.

why are they making these if they dont work for the application theyre being made for?
http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/produ...r2gaxlelsd.htm

[QUOTE=bryanwheat;153065759]Are you saying that you didn't torque the nut after the new bearing was installed? IF the end of the axle is mushroomed out than grind it to where the nut will fit on it and clean up the threads with a file. It's not hard to do if you take your time. It would also be a real good idea to get those boots sealed up right. By the way the writing is Japanese not Chinese.



yea i coulnt retorque because of the threads being ruined, andwhen i pull it out again ill properly clamp the boot, the one i bought was to big and its was in the middle of the night and i needed the car for work the next day so a screw clamp went on

[ChrisTheBuilder]

If when you bought a new hub bearing it didnt come with the flange that holds your wheels studs. Then it was probably an assembly error. When you press the flange into the hub it sometimes seperates the two bearings which in turn causes a very very short bearing life.

Maybe something to look into.

[Sinister96]

that was something i thought of, actually i bought the hub assembly from jnz and proceeded to destroy the bearing trying to hammer on the hub to the axle, so pulled the axle back out, bought a new bearing took it to a press and had the axle pressed off, bearing press off and new back on and hub pressed onto axle, 4 days later bearing was noisy, when i change the diff fluid another 3 days later bearing was already toast. i chalked it up to not torquing the axle nut.

[ChrisTheBuilder]

Ok, heres what I saw on graveyards axle. It is just like yours you either have to buy the differential end or have your old one pressed off and put on the graveyard axle.

I didnt torque mine the first time, or the second time after I fried mine after an inproper installation. I just used an impact and its been fine seeing wrather high speeds regularly.

[bryanwheat]

Originally Posted by ChrisTheBuilder

Ok, heres what I saw on graveyards axle. It is just like yours you either have to buy the differential end or have your old one pressed off and put on the graveyard axle.

I didnt torque mine the first time, or the second time after I fried mine after an inproper installation. I just used an impact and its been fine seeing wrather high speeds regularly.

This is correct you have to reuse the inner cup and hub. It isn't pressed on though, there is a snap ring that holds the inner hub on the shaft than the cup slides over it.

Originally Posted by Sinister96

but that doesnt explain why the graveyard sales rep said the diff side should NOT have a cv joint on it

The person that you talked to on the phone is a dumbass and shouldn't be allowed anywhere near a car, better yet selling auto parts.

Originally Posted by Sinister96

i chalked it up to not torquing the axle nut.

Correct, the nut has to be torqued down to hold the bearing together.

Originally Posted by Sinister96

ok thx that clears up a few things...but i took the axle to a thread grinder shop and he ####ed it up enough where theres not enough material left, he cut to deep for the nut, they milled and lathed it but to much

Sounds like the person doing this work had no business trying to re thread anything. IT's fairly easy to just grind the mushroomed part of and fix the threads.

[Sinister96]

ok well that settles it thx alot bryan for clearing this mess up, i asked the guy on the phone if the 3 bearings came off and went onto the new axle he said no, blah, blah, blah...so ill order the damn axle then lmao, still wish i wouldnt have let someones else touch my car, would be in a much better position right now.

Now to find one cheaper than $296, come on mitsubishi you need to start making these axles again!!!

[Snot Rocket]

A friend of mine was needing the cup that goes into the diff. He called DSM graveyard and was told they don't have it and can not reproduce it. That is probabaly why they said it is diffrent on the diff end. Because they just don't sell that part of the axel.

[trboeclpse98]

I believe I might have one of those axles laying around.