Extended slave cylinder rod question??

[1glaserfwd]

Just finished installing my comp stage 4 clutch, also replaced the fork and ball with new oem parts. I have adjusted the rod on the master as far out as I can and the clutch engages a mm off the floorWTF. Sometimes it is a bit hard to get into 3rd and 1st. Will this get better after I drive it longer or will using a longer slave rod help with this issue. I am going to the track this friday and want to be able to shift it without trouble. Any replies are appreciated thanks!!

 

[And_44]

I'm using an extended rod on my set up. I still engage right off the floor but I don't have any drivability issues with it. It has a new master/slave/SS clutch line.

I have no idea why this engages so close to the floor either I but experience no issues. Clutch doesn't drag and no grinds.

Only car I've experienced with such a close clutch was a brand new Mazda 3. How ever this is the only DSM I've driven so close to ground. I like it.

 

[luv2rallye]

If your clutch fork rests on the wrong side of center in it's bell housing window (side away from slave cyl), no extended push rod will help as there is not enough allowed travel for it to operate fully (may even be hitting far side of bell housing window in which case you risk cracking the bell housing). I've had this happen even with oem parts if flywheel was resurfaced too many times; or clutch fork worn down too much where pivot ball sits in it (fork is usually the wear point - not the pivot ball - so don't waste money getting only the pivot ball); or you have a non-oem flywheel, disk, PP, or T.O. bearing that has incorrect thickness dimensions; or they are mismatched. The PP moves closer to engine (except in the case of a worn clutch fork) yet with the pivot ball in same place, the clutch fork moves to wrong side of window center (or too far in the direction away from slave cylinder). Result is not enough allowed fork travel no matter what you've got for a slave rod length or master cylinder adjustment. In that case the only solution is shimming the clutch fork pivot ball (or getting all new oem parts). See picture: TRE TECH TIPS.

 

[Dert]

Did you use and OEM master? The majority of non OEM master cylinders have a shorter throw than OEM causing the car to react as soon as the peddel is off the floor, hard to get into gear, and grinding. Usually will get harder to get in gear as the car warms up. Another issue could be wether or not you had the correct step machined on your flywheel. Installing an actual OEM master tends to fix a lot of people's clutch problems. I personally had issues getting in gear, sometimes grinding, and always engaging right off the floor after installing an exedy stage 2 clutch with exedy master cylinder. Finally after trying everything to fix it ended up buying an OEM as suggested by other members, installed an OEM master and every issue disappeared the first time I drove it. Was a night and day difference.

 

[silvreclips]

Dont ever buy an extended slave rod. They dont help with anything, If the slave moves 0.5in with the stock rod, its gonna move the exact same with the extended rod. What happens is the longer rod pushes the slave piston further into the slave bore until it bottoms out. This preloads the pressure plate so that same movement as before seems like it helps release the clutch. And it does, however, your gonna loss holding power in the clutch from the preload and you might wear out the TOB faster.

Its a bandaid fix that will cause you more problems in the long run

 

[Nekid]

Another "no" for the extended slave rod.

More than likely it sounds like your distances in your pp/clutch/flywheel are not within DSM spec. As luv2rallye said, your fork should sit just over the center line towards the driver's wheel. If it isn't, you can drop the transmission and add a shim to the pivot ball to move it in. Take note though, you can only shim so much, shim too much and you'll be preloading the TOB on the PP.

You may also take a look into the pedal assembly and check for more possible adjustment there. The 1g pedal has more adjustment than a 2g setup.

If the pedal feels funny, you may have air in the clutch line which would also result in a low engagement point (it's compressing the air before it will move the fluid).