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| Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums. |
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07-20-2012, 01:34 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Cranberry twp, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jul 2012
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1g Talon Help
I have a 1990 talon tsi fwd and i would like some input about my car. For safety reasons. I bought the car about 6 months ago, i paid $1100. It has 203k miles, alot i know but it runs great. The previous owner didnt tell me anything about the car. Such as mods etc. For $1100 i didnt care what was done to it. He said nothing was done to it. I later found out that it has a big 16g turbo, not sure if its the evo III or not but i know its a big 16g, has a different exhaust from the cat back, but there is no cat, stock manifold and downpipe. Has a MAFT, GM MAF sensor, filter, i installed a FMIC and a GReddy RS BOV (HICP) it is not the stock clutch much stiffer. Like i said the previous owner said nothing about mods, so im just going with what i can see. Thats all i can think of mod wise. It has A/F ratio guage, boost guage and oil pressuere guage. Also has a GReddy turbo timer (broken), different wheels and tires i think they are 3g wheels with winter tires. The main point i am getting at is my guage says im running 24 psi and i dont know if that is safe or not. Most likely it is not. Btw im still on stock 450cc injectors. Let me know what you think. Any input about anything will be great. Oh by the way, im only 15 so i dont know everything. I know a decent amount though.
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07-20-2012, 02:03 PM
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Proven Member

Car: 2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV
From: CHEYENNE, Wyoming
Registered: May 2011
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Is it an after market boost guage or the stock? The stock one is not accurate. I would probably do some maintenance on the vehicle first, most will tell you that. Try reading through the tech guide on here. As the far as the boost PSI goes, can you find a MBC/EBC? I would suggest backing it down till you know more about your car, 14 PSI maybe? I'm sure others will chime in. Like I said start going through maintenance on the vehicle per the guide, and do lots of reading on here, tons of info. Oh and 15 and you don't know everything?! Refreshing! Wish my kid would say that!
http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=dsm_maintenance
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07-20-2012, 02:23 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Cranberry twp, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filabob1
Is it an after market boost guage or the stock? The stock one is not accurate. I would probably do some maintenance on the vehicle first, most will tell you that. Try reading through the tech guide on here. As the far as the boost PSI goes, can you find a MBC/EBC? I would suggest backing it down till you know more about your car, 14 PSI maybe? I'm sure others will chime in. Like I said start going through maintenance on the vehicle per the guide, and do lots of reading on here, tons of info. Oh and 15 and you don't know everything?! Refreshing! Wish my kid would say that!
DSM 4G63 Maintenance Guide - DSMtuners
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Its aftermarket boost guage. There is a MBC but i dont think it works... Ive turned all the way in and out and no change. But maintenance such as? Oil, oil filter, plugs, wires etc? Or???
Didnt realize you added that link. My bad.
Last edited by 1990_talon; 07-20-2012 at 02:28 PM.
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07-20-2012, 03:22 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Proven Member

Car: 2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV
From: CHEYENNE, Wyoming
Registered: May 2011
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If you're not noticing any change adjusting the MBC you might want to check to see if
1: Its hooked up correctly
2: It may be leaking, split line or connection T
3. Take apart the MBC and clean it
Check those out. If you have did your reading you will want to do BLT (boost leak test).
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07-20-2012, 03:26 PM
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Proven Member

From: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Registered: May 2007
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A boost leak tester is your friend.
____________________________
DSMer Since 94
Ecmlink
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07-20-2012, 03:26 PM
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Proven Member

From: Lexington, Kentucky
Registered: Jan 2010
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if its got all those mods for that cheap hate to say it but something has to be wrong with it, id go to your local auto parts store get a service manual and go through it, id do a timing belt job, replace all other belt, all new fluids, check the brake, check axles boots, plug and wires, get some seafoam in the tank. do a complete service on it. its better to spend money now then when it break because of a problem that was an easy fix before
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07-20-2012, 03:37 PM
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Proven Member

From: Cranberry twp, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jul 2012
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Like i said, it runs great. It has no problems what so ever. Well no power steering  but honestly, i dont care. Other than that nothing. No leaks squeals knocks screatches etc. Pretty clean for 203k miles. Very minimal rust. I mean 3-4 spots on the whole car. Ive been wanting to do a boost leak test but havent gotten around to it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xander061
if its got all those mods for that cheap hate to say it but something has to be wrong with it, id go to your local auto parts store get a service manual and go through it, id do a timing belt job, replace all other belt, all new fluids, check the brake, check axles boots, plug and wires, get some seafoam in the tank. do a complete service on it. its better to spend money now then when it break because of a problem that was an easy fix before
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Brakes are good, axle boots are good, plugs/wires good, timing belt looks good. No like cracks or anything, same with serpantine belt. No power steering belt. But everything seems fine. The guy wanted i think $2000 but talked him down to $1100
Last edited by 1990_talon; 07-20-2012 at 03:41 PM.
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07-20-2012, 04:06 PM
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Proven Member

From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Oct 2007
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If you are running the 450cc injectors at 24PSI, I would advise you NOT to continue to drive the car the stock 450cc injectors just cannot flow enough fuel to keep up with that level of boost. With an upgraded turbo, the highest you should see is maybe 14 before you should hit fuel cut (If you don't know what I mean by fuel cut, it feels like you hit a brick wall during acceleration). I would check to see if the boost gauge is functioning properly as well. It may be wise to remove the boost controller from the car and hook it back up factory wise to make sure that it is safe. I would run the hose right off the j-pipe nipple from the turbo, directly to the wastegate nipple. That would be my two cents.
Second, Yes do full general maintenance for the car. Fluids of engine and tranny, belts, plugs, etc. They may look good but it's always that piece of mind to know they they are new. This also includes a Boost leak test.. very important step to any dsm. The belts on our cars are not a "serpentine" like on some of the newer cars. There are 3 individual belts that drive the power steering, AC, water pump, and alternator.
Third, Get your hands on a manual. This will provide you with tons of information! There is a digital one online that you can reference as well but it can be a little sluggish to load.
Download the 1G Service Manuals
Lastly, I think you should learn more about the car. Make a list of everything that you can find that is not factory. I would agree with the above posted. It has a lot of nice modifications... but to let it go for only 1,100 sounds a bit fishy. I would also get a compression test done to see how the engine numbers are looking.
Reference Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page for a lot of great information as well.
____________________________
-Matt
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07-20-2012, 07:37 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Cranberry twp, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskanDsm
If you are running the 450cc injectors at 24PSI, I would advise you NOT to continue to drive the car the stock 450cc injectors just cannot flow enough fuel to keep up with that level of boost. With an upgraded turbo, the highest you should see is maybe 14 before you should hit fuel cut (If you don't know what I mean by fuel cut, it feels like you hit a brick wall during acceleration). I would check to see if the boost gauge is functioning properly as well. It may be wise to remove the boost controller from the car and hook it back up factory wise to make sure that it is safe. I would run the hose right off the j-pipe nipple from the turbo, directly to the wastegate nipple. That would be my two cents.
Second, Yes do full general maintenance for the car. Fluids of engine and tranny, belts, plugs, etc. They may look good but it's always that piece of mind to know they they are new. This also includes a Boost leak test.. very important step to any dsm. The belts on our cars are not a "serpentine" like on some of the newer cars. There are 3 individual belts that drive the power steering, AC, water pump, and alternator.
Third, Get your hands on a manual. This will provide you with tons of information! There is a digital one online that you can reference as well but it can be a little sluggish to load.
Download the 1G Service Manuals
Lastly, I think you should learn more about the car. Make a list of everything that you can find that is not factory. I would agree with the above posted. It has a lot of nice modifications... but to let it go for only 1,100 sounds a bit fishy. I would also get a compression test done to see how the engine numbers are looking.
Reference Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page for a lot of great information as well.
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Ive never hit fuel cut. When i get the money i will do maintenance to the car. But as for the boost controller, it is hooked up to the wastegate then to the j pipe as you said. So its hooked up right. Idk maybe its just junk. But everything ive meantioned is what i know about the car. I know for a fact i have the big 16g turbo. But everything i mentioned is what i can visually see. I will try to put up pictures of the turbo and engine bay in general.
Last edited by 1990_talon; 07-23-2012 at 10:34 AM.
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07-20-2012, 07:46 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Casa Grande, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2008
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Uh... Why does it look like the fmic bypasses the compressor housing and goes straight to the filter?
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07-20-2012, 07:48 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Cranberry twp, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jul 2012
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Here isa picture of the turbo and the engine bay un-edited
Last edited by 1990_talon; 07-23-2012 at 10:34 AM.
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07-20-2012, 07:51 PM
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Proven Member

From: Uniontown, Ohio
Registered: Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyeler18
Uh... Why does it look like the fmic bypasses the compressor housing and goes straight to the filter?
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It doesn't. It turns down and goes to the compressor housing with the red elbow. Did you misplace your glasses, or have you been drinking again?
Darn... too late with my reply... the new pics show it better for sure.
____________________________
-Matt Graves-
soon to be HX40 powered....
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07-20-2012, 07:53 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Cranberry twp, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyeler18
Uh... Why does it look like the fmic bypasses the compressor housing and goes straight to the filter?
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Because the kit i got i paid $75 for ill post a picture, but it is a universal kit so i had to make it work. I need to but a j-pipe. Im broke right now though. But the only way me and about 4 other people could figure out how to get the IC to work was this menagerie.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GRAVEDIGGER
It doesn't. It turns down and goes to the compressor housing with the red elbow. Did you misplace your glasses, or have you been drinking again?
Darn... too late with my reply... the new pics show it better for sure. 
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Lol yeah, but its the only way i could make it work. But imo i like how it looks. Except for the ugly U shape routing with the 4 couplers
Last edited by 1990_talon; 07-23-2012 at 10:34 AM.
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07-20-2012, 07:59 PM
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Proven Member

From: Thurmont, Maryland
Registered: Nov 2002
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Sounds like you have something a little better than the stock 450cc injectors...Looks like you have some prothane engine mount inserts
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07-20-2012, 08:03 PM
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Proven Member

From: Cranberry twp, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yhype
Sounds like you have something a little better than the stock 450cc injectors
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Nope looked them up. Unless i cant read! Ill go check them out right now. I looked the number on the up a few months ago. They said they were stock blue top 450cc's
Quote:
Originally Posted by yhype
Sounds like you have something a little better than the stock 450cc injectors...Looks like you have some prothane engine mount inserts
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And as for the engine mounts, i have no clue, all i know is the a need one in the front. 
But All of the numbers one the injectors are B450L, INP 009, and 939. It was dark and i could see to well i think the 939 is right but not sure.
Last edited by 1990_talon; 07-20-2012 at 08:15 PM.
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07-20-2012, 08:16 PM
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Proven Member

From: Canton, Ohio
Registered: Apr 2012
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That looked really weird when i first saw it too lol. but as for that j-pipe issue, I may be able to help you out if you want to pm me. I have an extra
____________________________
Nick
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07-21-2012, 07:15 AM
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Proven Member

From: Lowell, Michigan
Registered: Feb 2008
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Yup soon as I popped the hood i would have bought it too.I would pull the ecu just out of curiousity and see if anythings been done to it aswell.
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07-21-2012, 07:19 AM
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Proven Member

From: Cranberry twp, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmkhet
Yup soon as I popped the hood i would have bought it too.I would pull the ecu just out of curiousity and see if anythings been done to it aswell.
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Well it wasnt as "pretty" when i bought it. Ill see if i have a picture. But i installed the FMIC and painted the valve cover myself. And it was alot more dirty. A bunch of gunk and crap in it. But still for $1100 its a great deal.
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07-21-2012, 08:02 AM
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Proven Member

From: Lowell, Michigan
Registered: Feb 2008
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Yeah, I just mentioned the ecu seeing the mods that maybe its chipped or eprom is all.At the very least id check the caps.Mine leaked all over the board and gave me some issues to say the least.
Deffinately a good deal in my opinion!
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07-21-2012, 08:24 AM
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Proven Member

From: Hopewell, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2009
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Upper ic piping...
The upper piping gets real hot i bet... I would re route that if it was my car or at least wrap it up. but you just got it so you will be working on it alot soon enough haha Good luck!!!
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07-21-2012, 08:29 AM
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Proven Member

From: Cranberry twp, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hesh724
The upper piping gets real hot i bet... I would re route that if it was my car or at least wrap it up. but you just got it so you will be working on it alot soon enough haha Good luck!!!
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Yeah it does. I need to buy a j pipe and or heat wrap. But yeah i bought the car about 6 months ago. I planned to get a car that needed work and what not so i can work on it and do whatever i want to it so that when i turn 16 ill have a nice car.
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07-21-2012, 08:53 AM
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Proven Member

From: Lowell, Michigan
Registered: Feb 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1990_talon
Yeah it does. I need to buy a j pipe and or heat wrap. But yeah i bought the car about 6 months ago. I planned to get a car that needed work and what not so i can work on it and do whatever i want to it so that when i turn 16 ill have a nice car.
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I hope your more responsible than I was at 16.If your not say good bye to your license.
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07-21-2012, 08:58 AM
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Proven Member

From: Cranberry twp, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hesh724
The upper piping gets real hot i bet... I would re route that if it was my car or at least wrap it up. but you just got it so you will be working on it alot soon enough haha Good luck!!!
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Yeah it does. I need to buy a j pipe and or heat wrap. But yeah i bought the car about 6 months ago. I planned to get a car that needed work and what not so i can work on it and do whatever i want to it so that when i turn 16 ill have a nice car.
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07-21-2012, 09:24 AM
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Registered: Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1990_talon
Well it wasnt as "pretty" when i bought it. Ill see if i have a picture. But i installed the FMIC and painted the valve cover myself. And it was alot more dirty. A bunch of gunk and crap in it. But still for $1100 its a great deal.
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Got a better deal than I did for my 92. But I tried not to complain too much, I mean it is a 20yr old car
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07-21-2012, 09:37 AM
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Proven Member

From: Cranberry twp, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolo'sTalonTsi
Got a better deal than I did for my 92. But I tried not to complain too much, I mean it is a 20yr old car
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The car is easily worth like $4000. Its cleaner than most 22 year old cars. + all the mods. And i paid $1100!
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07-21-2012, 06:35 PM
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Proven Member

From: Cranberry twp, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolo'sTalonTsi
OK I got the point show-off  !!!!
j/k
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Lol im just saying it was a hell of a deal. Even i it wasnt turboed it would still be worth what i paid.
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07-21-2012, 07:36 PM
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From: Mt. pleasant, Pennsylvania
Registered: Mar 2008
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I know a lot of guys are hitting you with the maintenance post but I will throw a few key points out. Timing belt is a must. Make sure its in good shape along with the pulleys, and tensioner. The tensioner is pricey but worth it. At least inspect everything. Fold the timing belt back and inspect it for cracks. Check the gear oil condition and level in the transmission. These are small things that can be done to help preserve your 1100 dollar investment. A broken timing belt turns into 500 plus dollars real fast when you have to get a head done and if the gear oil is crap a cheap trans can cost 900 for a rebuild unless you happen to get a deal on one. I seen you are local if you need any help or get hung up shoot me a pm on here I have no problem helping people out.
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07-21-2012, 07:50 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Cranberry twp, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by untouchablecc
I know a lot of guys are hitting you with the maintenance post but I will throw a few key points out. Timing belt is a must. Make sure its in good shape along with the pulleys, and tensioner. The tensioner is pricey but worth it. At least inspect everything. Fold the timing belt back and inspect it for cracks. Check the gear oil condition and level in the transmission. These are small things that can be done to help preserve your 1100 dollar investment. A broken timing belt turns into 500 plus dollars real fast when you have to get a head done and if the gear oil is crap a cheap trans can cost 900 for a rebuild unless you happen to get a deal on one. I seen you are local if you need any help or get hung up shoot me a pm on here I have no problem helping people out.
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Yeah youre like 45 minutes to an hour away. But definately ill let you know. Have you ever done anything with ecmlink/dsmlink? I want to get it but im 15 and would be lost on how to use it.
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07-22-2012, 03:08 AM
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Proven Member

From: Hopewell, Pennsylvania
Registered: Feb 2009
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+1 on the timing check
Quote:
Originally Posted by untouchablecc
I know a lot of guys are hitting you with the maintenance post but I will throw a few key points out. Timing belt is a must. Make sure its in good shape along with the pulleys, and tensioner. The tensioner is pricey but worth it. At least inspect everything. Fold the timing belt back and inspect it for cracks. Check the gear oil condition and level in the transmission. These are small things that can be done to help preserve your 1100 dollar investment. A broken timing belt turns into 500 plus dollars real fast when you have to get a head done and if the gear oil is crap a cheap trans can cost 900 for a rebuild unless you happen to get a deal on one. I seen you are local if you need any help or get hung up shoot me a pm on here I have no problem helping people out.
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There is a specail timing tool set you should get off dsm gravyard or extreme psi i cant remember but taking the timing cover off is easy. if you have solid mounts you wont even need to support the engine or nothing. just the mount, two pulleys, and the cover and thats about it. i can get to my timing belt in like 10 mins now. haha I just mean, its not alot to take apart. so feel free to inspect it alone if you can do baisic wrenching you can do it. Good luck
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