| Welcome to DSMtuners |
You are currently browsing the site as a "Guest", which means your are either not registered or not logged in. This also means you have limited access to our site and cannot participate - you also are browsing the site with more advertisements than logged-in members.
Register an account and start participating!
|
| Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums. |
 |

|
|
07-05-2012, 09:58 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#1 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Mesa, Arizona
Registered: Jul 2011
Reputation:
|
A few different questions.
So I have read through a bunch of threads and I found people saying to do these things but now how to do these things. I am relatively new to this car and just needed some more specific answers than what I have found in a few older posts.
First: Where does the rear o2 sensor plug into the rest of the wiring harness to the car so I can unplug it?
The wires have been cut and are just hanging under the car and I don't want it to short so I want to get rid of its power source. I saw in another thread that if the o2 is cut off that you should do this but no one pointed out where it was.
Second: Is there an easier way to take out the A/C pump?
All the A/C removal how to's have been saying you need to remove your clutch resevoir and a few vaccuum lines to get it out. I really don't want to do that if there is an easier way. The car doesn't have the A/C condensor or the freon tank so I was just going to get the rest out as well but I think I see why they left it in there.
Now we will get to the really noob stuff.
Third: Which belt is the A/C belt?
Haha. I laugh at myself for this one. I was positive I knew which one it was until I went to cut it and I freaked myself out. I guess I got too paranoid. So if someone could point it out very specifically before I cut anything I need that would be awesome because each time I go to do it I freak myself out of it.
Fourth: What is the best way to get the turbo to manifold and turbo to o2 housing bolts off?
I have been blasting it will WD40 and other breaking solutions every single day but these bolts will not budge. I'm a small guy but I just removed my entire exhaust besides these two things and these are making the exhaust look like a vacation. My ratchet is 3/8th drive, should I just get a huge breaker pipe and hope the bolts don't break? I don't have any sockets that fit a 1/2 inch drive.
Sorry for the small novel here but I couldn't find the answers spelled out for me and I was searching all day yesterday. Thanks for the help guys.
|
|
|
07-05-2012, 11:22 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#2 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Blountville, Tennessee
Registered: Jun 2012
Reputation:
|
The rear o2 sensor comes out of the floorboard of the car. Pretty sure it's under the driver side seat or center console if I remember correctly.
|
|
|
|
07-05-2012, 11:23 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#3 (permalink)
|
|
Supporting Member

From: Paragould, Arkansas
Registered: Dec 2008
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by AngelOfPassion
So I have read through a bunch of threads and I found people saying to do these things but now how to do these things. I am relatively new to this car and just needed some more specific answers than what I have found in a few older posts.
First: Where does the rear o2 sensor plug into the rest of the wiring harness to the car so I can unplug it?
The wires have been cut and are just hanging under the car and I don't want it to short so I want to get rid of its power source. I saw in another thread that if the o2 is cut off that you should do this but no one pointed out where it was.
|
It passes through the body under the driver-side seat.  Just trace it back from there. It doesn't go too far.
Quote:
Second: Is there an easier way to take out the A/C pump?
All the A/C removal how to's have been saying you need to remove your clutch resevoir and a few vaccuum lines to get it out. I really don't want to do that if there is an easier way. The car doesn't have the A/C condensor or the freon tank so I was just going to get the rest out as well but I think I see why they left it in there.
|
Well, if you mean the actually compressor, the easiest way will be to remove the intake manifold. Then it's just a few bolts and up you go.
Quote:
Now we will get to the really noob stuff. 
Third: Which belt is the A/C belt?
Haha. I laugh at myself for this one. I was positive I knew which one it was until I went to cut it and I freaked myself out. I guess I got too paranoid. So if someone could point it out very specifically before I cut anything I need that would be awesome because each time I go to do it I freak myself out of it.
|
There should only be one that runs back to the AC compressor.  Just look and remove. Or wait until you remove the compressor and it'll kind of sort itself out.
Quote:
Fourth: What is the best way to get the turbo to manifold and turbo to o2 housing bolts off?
I have been blasting it will WD40 and other breaking solutions every single day but these bolts will not budge. I'm a small guy but I just removed my entire exhaust besides these two things and these are making the exhaust look like a vacation. My ratchet is 3/8th drive, should I just get a huge breaker pipe and hope the bolts don't break? I don't have any sockets that fit a 1/2 inch drive.
Sorry for the small novel here but I couldn't find the answers spelled out for me and I was searching all day yesterday. Thanks for the help guys.
|
These bolts can end up being a pain. blast it with WD40 or PB Breaker. Apply some heat, this will usually help. In your case you may need to either grab a mallet and smack the wrench a few times, or just go with a larger wrench/cheater bar. Try to -pop- it loose. Think how an impact works. You'll have less chance breaking/twisting the head off by giving it rapid 'nudges' opposed to just applying a ton of force continuously.
____________________________
~Keiya~
98 TSI AWD
97 Formula 6-Speed
91 3000GT VR4
|
|
|
07-05-2012, 01:57 PM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#4 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Mesa, Arizona
Registered: Jul 2011
Reputation:
|
Thank you so much! That should have me covered! The intake manifold idea is genious... that sounds alot easier than removing the lines.
Malet and wrench trick sounds like it would work well. I will try this after work.
Thanks again Keiya.
|
|
|
07-05-2012, 02:06 PM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#5 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Springfield, Oregon
Registered: Feb 2008
Reputation:
|
I know not everyone has money to just go buy tools, but I would suggest going to your local harborfrieght and buy a 3/8ths breaker bar. It will help you a lot and you will use it all the time if you want to do most of the work to your car. Get a few tools at a time, and over time or maybe even the first time you use the new tools they will have paid for themselves from not going to a shop.
|
|
|
07-05-2012, 02:10 PM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#6 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Mesa, Arizona
Registered: Jul 2011
Reputation:
|
Yeah I was going to go to Home Depot and look for something like that, or a metal pipe that fits on my ratchet. I just don't have that much money at the moment and I have parts just sitting there that want to be installed and I can't get these darn bolts off haha.
|
|
|
07-05-2012, 02:19 PM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#7 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Registered: Jan 2012
Reputation:
|
If not go to Lowes Kobalt has a ton of different breaker bars and they are quality. Obviously you pay for them but its better than snapping the harbor freight one and causing damage to your body or the car. Trust me I have done it, its not fun.
|
|
|
07-05-2012, 03:28 PM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#8 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Mesa, Arizona
Registered: Jul 2011
Reputation:
|
Yeah dude I looked online and found a breaker bar at lowes for like $20.00 that seemed pretty nice. I hear you on the hurting yourself part, you should have seen me last night with these bolts man. I serously had my leg against the wall/bumper and just pulling as hard as I could lol. I gave up at that point I didn't want to slip and fall backwards.
Hell I just now realized that if the bolt did come loose that is exactly what would have happened haha. Funny how your mind works when you are frustrated. You don't think of any of the obvious things.
|
|
|
07-06-2012, 09:31 PM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#9 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Mesa, Arizona
Registered: Jul 2011
Reputation:
|
Update:
So I was able to get all the bolts off but one. This one is killing me [pic below]. I was even going to drain my coolant and take my radiator out to get more room but then I realized that a socket won't even fit in this tight space, not even a shallow one. So my breaker bar is of no use here. Anyone have any ideas how to get this one?
|
|
|
07-06-2012, 10:03 PM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#12 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Mesa, Arizona
Registered: Jul 2011
Reputation:
|
I really just don't have anything that can get it hot enough i guess... the only thing that I have that produces heat is my wife's blow dryer...
I guess I am just going to have to buy one of those little propane torch things tomorrow... lol
|
|
|
07-06-2012, 10:37 PM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#14 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: bozeman, Montana
Registered: Mar 2012
Reputation:
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riceburning101
|
saved my butt meany times  just dont melt the o2 wires lol 
|
|
|
07-10-2012, 10:45 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#15 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Mesa, Arizona
Registered: Jul 2011
Reputation:
|
Update:
I got the bolt guys! Lowes was out of the torches and so I went home and sprayed even more PB blaster on it. I was able to put a pipe on the wrench and position the wrench to where instead of trying to pull down to loosen it I got it to where I could pull backward to loosen it. Then I put my legs against the wall and just unleashed hell. Took about 4 seconds of full strength laying down pulling back but it came. Scared the hell out of me too when I slid backward on the driveway haha.
But now there is a SS punishment racing o2 housing with a new o2 sensor! Seeing that makes me forget about all of this. Downpipe and Test Pipe are in the mail too! Can't wait.
PS whoever designed that bolt to where you can't even fit a socket on there is a genious. Great R&D on that one...
Thanks for all the input and your help.
|
|
|
07-10-2012, 10:47 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#16 (permalink)
|
|
Supporting Member

From: Paragould, Arkansas
Registered: Dec 2008
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by AngelOfPassion
PS whoever designed that bolt to where you can't even fit a socket on there is a genious. Great R&D on that one...
|
They wanted to make us suffer. And bust radiators open.
____________________________
~Keiya~
98 TSI AWD
97 Formula 6-Speed
91 3000GT VR4
|
|
|
07-10-2012, 10:56 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#17 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Scottsville, New York
Registered: Jan 2011
Reputation:
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by XiKeiyaZI
They wanted to make us suffer. And bust radiators open.
|
Radaitors are hell on the knuckles too, like a damn cheese grater!
The way I pulled my ac compressor was out the passenger side under the intake manifold, with the battery and tray out of there it took some fussing with the other shit in the way but it came out. Good luck man!
|
|
|
07-10-2012, 11:06 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#18 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Mesa, Arizona
Registered: Jul 2011
Reputation:
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigKnick
Radaitors are hell on the knuckles too, like a damn cheese grater!
The way I pulled my ac compressor was out the passenger side under the intake manifold, with the battery and tray out of there it took some fussing with the other shit in the way but it came out. Good luck man!
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by XiKeiyaZI
They wanted to make us suffer. And bust radiators open.
|
Dude I know! You should see when I tried to hit the wrench with a mallet and it slipped down and hit the radiator. Yeah my fins don't look to good right there now...
And that is another brilliant plan for the ac compressor. Because unless I need to take the Intake Manifold off for another reason I really am just going to save myself the trouble. I will have to look and see if the charcoal canister will be in the way. (One more reason to remove something else I don't need...  )
|
|
|
07-10-2012, 11:11 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#19 (permalink)
|
|
DSM Wiseman

From: Columbia, Missouri
Registered: Aug 2004
Reputation:
|
You definitely DO NOT have to remove the intake manifold to remove the compressor. Unbolt the brake reservoir from the firewall and push it aside. From there remove the motor mount bolt on the driver side and the one on the transmission mount. From there put a jack under the engine and jack it up a few inches. That will give you plenty of room to get it out.
|
|
|
|
07-10-2012, 11:14 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#20 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Omaha, Nebraska
Registered: Nov 2007
|
Let me make a WISE advisement on removing turbo to manifold bolts, DON"T use a breaker bar abd rbuite force, this is what twists bols inhalf.. and inpact is best, it doen'st use a lot of power, but instead hammers at the bolt repeatedly breaking loosethe rust holding it on
don't believe me, then put an impact on a bolt on a pulley or something that spins and what how slow it spins, it's not "constant force" it's rapid application of mediumamounts of force, and combined with PB blaster soaking overnight you SHOULD be able to getthe bolts out with out an issue
If the bolts done come loose in say 5 seconds of impacting, turn the gun to "tighten" and hit it for a second or two, the back to "loosen", repeatthis as many times a you can untuil the bolt starts to lossen ia steady fashio.. I showed Tiki777 this trick the other day with a frozen tranny bolt, the breaker bar was twisting and breaking it, but steady hammering back and forth eventualy loosend the corrosion and removed the bolt..I'm 35 and started wrenching on my own dirtbikes when i was racing in the years before i was a teenager, if i give odd sounding advice, trust me it works.. pull the carpet up under the drive seat/rear floorboard on samesiode and there's a rubber plug that has the wires going down throuigh to the rear O2sensor, be prepared for a check engine light, DSMlink i think can disable it if i recal,but it's much easier to just wire one up or get an 02 simulator
____________________________
Haltech E6X, Holset H1-3558x, AWD swap
|
|
|
07-10-2012, 11:37 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#21 (permalink)
|
|
Supporting Member

From: Paragould, Arkansas
Registered: Dec 2008
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboglenn
Let me make a WISE advisement on removing turbo to manifold bolts, DON"T use a breaker bar abd rbuite force, this is what twists bols inhalf.. and inpact is best, it doen'st use a lot of power, but instead hammers at the bolt repeatedly breaking loosethe rust holding it on
don't believe me, then put an impact on a bolt on a pulley or something that spins and what how slow it spins, it's not "constant force" it's rapid application of mediumamounts of force, and combined with PB blaster soaking overnight you SHOULD be able to getthe bolts out with out an issue
If the bolts done come loose in say 5 seconds of impacting, turn the gun to "tighten" and hit it for a second or two, the back to "loosen", repeatthis as many times a you can untuil the bolt starts to lossen ia steady fashio.. I showed Tiki777 this trick the other day with a frozen tranny bolt, the breaker bar was twisting and breaking it, but steady hammering back and forth eventualy loosend the corrosion and removed the bolt..I'm 35 and started wrenching on my own dirtbikes when i was racing in the years before i was a teenager, if i give odd sounding advice, trust me it works.. pull the carpet up under the drive seat/rear floorboard on samesiode and there's a rubber plug that has the wires going down throuigh to the rear O2sensor, be prepared for a check engine light, DSMlink i think can disable it if i recal,but it's much easier to just wire one up or get an 02 simulator
|
Completely agree and practice this method as much as possible - even if I can't get an impact on the bolt. A mallet and whacking at it while keeping a bit of pressure has always netted me better results.
Only thing here - there's no way he was getting an impact in there.
____________________________
~Keiya~
98 TSI AWD
97 Formula 6-Speed
91 3000GT VR4
|
|
|
07-10-2012, 12:39 PM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#22 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Mesa, Arizona
Registered: Jul 2011
Reputation:
|
Thanks turboglenn but the turbo to manifold bolts weren't too bad. it was the o2 housing that was a pain. I don't think it has ever been taken off until now lol.
I am going to try and get to those wires under the drivers seat today. will I need to remove the seat or is it far enough back to where I can just pull the carpet back a bit? I'm sure I will find out when I go to do it but I don't have much time today so I don't know if I want to try it.
I'll have to save the compressor for another day. But thanks Bryan. That will help too. I don't have a good jack right now though, just my ramps and the stock jack. So maybe I will get/borrow one.
Edit: Oh and I got around to getting the courage to cut the a/c belt and take off the tensioner pulley as well. Ever since I accidentally cut my power steering line I have been scared to cut things... lol
|
|
|
 |
|
|
» Recent DSM Videos |
|
|
» Online Users: 953 |
| 361 members and 592 guests |
| Most users ever online was 1,704, 03-17-2008 at 09:11 PM. |
|
|
|
|