Major bog/ hesitation

[my dreamt dsm]

I have no idea where to put this thread because I don't know what is causing the problem. Mechanical or electrical or spiritual a.k.a. the usual dsm curse.
Anyways, my car is bogging or hesitating when I start to drive. Example would be when I'm in first gear and let go of clutch, gas to get the car going, there is a good bog or hesitation before the car gets moving. I can even floor the gas and it will still not go until it catches like 3 seconds later. I even try slipping the clutch and giving it hella gas, still will not be peeling rubber.

It's so bad to the point that I am having trouble to get up to speed in a 40mph traffic. And to make it worse, when I'm at a 50mph zone, drivers in back of me switch lane cause I start off so slow. So you can imagine when the A/C comes on, the car can barely move or pick up speed. HELP HELP HELP! I am sure this is what's killing my gas mileage and horrible track times.

Clutch slipping? TPS? MAF? Injectors? Compression? I am totally loss!

I have done multiple searches and read about a guy venting his bov which fixed his bog... major bs.

 

[pjhale16]

Not really sure but just a few ideas to start with. Do you have a A/F gauge to see if it's going super lean or super rich when it bogs. So does it just bog at the start and then drive normal or does it keep doing it? Every time you switch gears? only on lower RPMs? Does it have power once it kicks in? I would say figuring out other things that coincide with when it bogs will help figure out what it is.

I think clutch would be way more noticeable during the higher rpms and larger loads. Starting off slow would be when it wouldn't slip. MAF would probably do it but you would notice it all the time. You could unplug it and see how it acts. Also are you throwing any codes?

 

[bryzenga]

Do you have anything like a logger to monitor the engines performance with? Possibly a bad knock sensor that is telling the ecu to pull timing. There are a lot of possibilities why the performance is lacking really, I'd start with a compression test first, then get a logger of some kind to monitor what the engine is doing.

 

[Scoobystyl]

When you get moving does the car seem to drive fine?
Id start off with testing the alternator ive seemed to notice that if your at 11 volts or lower at idle the car just doesnt want to run right til it gets moving and the voltage goes up if your that lucky.
Also if it does it even once youve started cruising you may need to replace the fuel filter, which id do anyways if your still on the stock setup

 

[cg195]

My car does the exact same thing. I have replaced the knock sensor and it didn't help, but recently had the cel checked and it says MAF circut A? I guess I'll be buying a new MAF sensor pretty soon.

Plus I think I am only getting 10mpg now. I'm hoping this is my problem but I'm not sure because I just got the car running about a month ago.

 

[1998_gst]

i'd test for boost leaks

 

[cg195]

I've check a couple times and fixed a few but it never really fixed the problem. How long should the system hold 10psi?

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Not really sure but just a few ideas to start with. Do you have a A/F gauge to see if it's going super lean or super rich when it bogs. So does it just bog at the start and then drive normal or does it keep doing it? Every time you switch gears? only on lower RPMs? Does it have power once it kicks in? I would say figuring out other things that coincide with when it bogs will help figure out what it is.

I think clutch would be way more noticeable during the higher rpms and larger loads. Starting off slow would be when it wouldn't slip. MAF would probably do it but you would notice it all the time. You could unplug it and see how it acts. Also are you throwing any codes?

Yes, it does it in lower gears. I am showing knock around 2-5 at times in lower 2.5k rpms. When the car is hot say over 20 miles of driving, it's show's a lot of knock around 20 plus. Weird thing is it happens around 2.3- 2.7 rpms. in every gear. But after the lower rpms, the car drives just fine.

Do you have anything like a logger to monitor the engines performance with? Possibly a bad knock sensor that is telling the ecu to pull timing. There are a lot of possibilities why the performance is lacking really, I'd start with a compression test first, then get a logger of some kind to monitor what the engine is doing.

I log with evoscan 2.9. Compression is good, pass the 178psi mark. I was also thinking knock sensor but there's no junk or movement at all tight as it can be.

When you get moving does the car seem to drive fine?
Id start off with testing the alternator ive seemed to notice that if your at 11 volts or lower at idle the car just doesnt want to run right til it gets moving and the voltage goes up if your that lucky.
Also if it does it even once youve started cruising you may need to replace the fuel filter, which id do anyways if your still on the stock setup

Car drives fine when it gets going. It's like the problem just happen one day. I assume if it was the fuel filter I would of notice it slowly. But since I see no paper work from previous owner of no fuel filter work. I'll be sure the check that. RIGHT NOW I'LL GIVE ANYTHING A TRY.

My car does the exact same thing. I have replaced the knock sensor and it didn't help, but recently had the cel checked and it says MAF circut A? I guess I'll be buying a new MAF sensor pretty soon.

Plus I think I am only getting 10mpg now. I'm hoping this is my problem but I'm not sure because I just got the car running about a month ago.

When it first started to happen, I also think it was knock sensor also. I also read a thread that said maybe the maf could be causing false reading. But I'm not to sure.

i'd test for boost leaks

Boost leaks are none!

Another thing is there is no check engine light on. I used my tactrix to read the code and it shows (25) Barometric something. Some how my cable isn't clearing the code.

 

[MHuddy1213]

i had this same exact problem the other day id hit the gas car would stutter and bog down then would go the problem the whole time was my MAS was unpluged somehow so it caused the car to bog down bad pluged it in and havent had any problems with it so i would check there 1st

 

[my dreamt dsm]

If I can find my extra one I'll give it a try. I read a thread the other day that this guy had one wire from the maf loose causing him problems. So I'll give this a shot.

 

[pokemon]

i had this same exact problem last year i hit the gas car would stutter and bog down really bad. so i went to the part store and replaced my cas and it didnt work. so i tried ti find the prob and never could, until i was so frustrated that i unhooked the CAS and took the car for a drive and it drove so good....so i went to the part store and got another one and found out that that was the problem----they didnt give me the right one the first time i went. i have beeen driving that car for almost a year now without problems. hope this helps you.

 

[bryzenga]

Thats a pretty high knock count for cruising.... if your knock sensor isn't bad, then it could be a clue as to what is going on. CAS would be a suspicion since it directly deals with ignition timing and could possibly be causing pre-ignition. They are cheap enough to get from a junkyard or you could always borrow a friends for testing purposes. I would first check over your engine bay and tighten any loose metal-metal contact points/mounts. If you aren't getting real knock, then it is phantom knock. Good luck, phantom knock is not a fun thing to deal with... note that if you have noisy lifters, they have been known to give some phantom knock issues.

 

[TRAUMA]

I just fixed this issue on my GS. I brought it to Advance Auto Parts and had them run a diagnostic and it said it was my EGR Valve. I popped it off and cleaned it all out. The area that was causing the problem was.
This is the area we're looking at.

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And this is the corner that was completely backed up with carbon. There was no air passing through at all.

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My car would bog out at <1000 RPMs and when accelerating hard (4500-6000 RPMs). I used a wire hanger to make a hole straight through, then a pipe cleaner to clean it out after spraying it with Throttle Body Cleaner.

Hope this helped.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

I'll check that too. Right now I have the fuel filter on order and my 190 will be going in.
Aside that the stupid car is loosing it's charge. I didn't drive it for 3 days and it wouldn't start causing me almost late to work.
I just push start it but it's still not holding charge after 15 minutes of driving. Before I test the alt I'll have to make sure it's not the battery.

 

[deviousgst]

Before pulling the alternator out, turn on the car and un-hook the negative terminal from battery and if car dies, then your alternator is bad.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Forgot about that test... I'll give it a try later.