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| Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums. |
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06-16-2012, 04:39 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: maple grove, Minnesota
Registered: Apr 2012
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is this clutch disk still good?
I know the general rule of thumb is when engine or tranny is pulled, just change clutch, but im short on funds, This clutch came with the engine and tranny I purchased
its obviously not stock, any idea what it could be?
hows the life look?
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06-16-2012, 04:42 PM
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DSM Wiseman

From: Columbia, Missouri
Registered: Aug 2004
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It looks to be in pretty decent shape still. As long as there are no chunks of material missing from the pucks than it should be fine.
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06-16-2012, 05:04 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: maple grove, Minnesota
Registered: Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djdsm
it looks good it might be a act clutch
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i was suprised to see a ACT flywheel. also does that look burned up ?
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06-16-2012, 06:04 PM
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Proven Member

From: johnson city, Tennessee
Registered: Aug 2009
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I'm not use to the extra flywheel bolt lol. The flywheel looks pretty much brand new to me or freshly resurfaced one, the clutch also seems to have plenty of life left in it. I would personally run them both, but if it is a act kit like I'm assuming then I would order a oem tob. People have mixed reviews on the act tobs, I know I had problems out of mine and switched it out for Oem.
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06-16-2012, 06:59 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: maple grove, Minnesota
Registered: Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mchustle
I'm not use to the extra flywheel bolt lol. The flywheel looks pretty much brand new to me or freshly resurfaced one, the clutch also seems to have plenty of life left in it. I would personally run them both, but if it is a act kit like I'm assuming then I would order a oem tob. People have mixed reviews on the act tobs, I know I had problems out of mine and switched it out for Oem.
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I've read about the t.o.b , I have a oem one from my stock tranny. I will be using, but the question I have is,(forgive me if it sounds like a noob move) should I just shim it anyway ?
I have two trannys. The one I bought with the motor set up, and the one I kect from my 99..
I test drove the tranny from the engine I purchased (found a lot of glitter type fluid when flushed It.
But on my 99 tranny it looked dirty and black, but no glitter and I know that's a good tranny ....
Sorry for the long winded post, but I was 99% done with my build. Had a buddy over to show it all off, and he looks at it and goes you need a cluth or your tranny shimed.
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06-16-2012, 07:58 PM
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Proven Member

From: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Registered: Jul 2002
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disc looks fine. Not sure about the flywheel.
Drag your finger nail from the outside to the inside of the mating surface. See if you nail catches on anything. Also take the flyhweel to a machine shop and measure the step.
____________________________
Pastor Sean
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06-17-2012, 03:54 AM
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Proven Member

From: Wilmington, North Carolina
Registered: Dec 2006
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I'm not exactly sure of the thickness, but I have used 2 washers in the past. I would imagine that a washer with the ID of the pivot ball stud is around .040-.050" thick. I only needed one the last time I did my clutch.
It depends on how much everything is worn ie; clutch fork, pivot ball, disc, FW, PP fingers. 1-2 washers is normal.
While its apart have the step checked like ^^ he said. It will have serious issues if its not in spec.
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06-17-2012, 07:40 AM
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Proven Member

From: st jacob, Illinois
Registered: Apr 2012
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May want to also have the flywheel/clutch balanced while your at it. Ive not had that done personally but i know when it comes out next time im having a machine shop step flywheel and balance the assembly.
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06-17-2012, 10:09 AM
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Proven Member

From: st jacob, Illinois
Registered: Apr 2012
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You followed the manuals instructions right? basically you tilt the engine down. If you didnt remove 3 engine mounts then theres your problem. Im about to embark on this nightmare myself next weekend..... FML
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06-17-2012, 11:44 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Columbia, Missouri
Registered: Aug 2004
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There is nothing that is a nightmare about installing a gst transmission. Those are a piece of cake and can be done without a transmission jack. It is easier with a jack, but it isn't needed like with a heavy awd transmission. I use studs for the bellhousing bolts to slide the transmission over. IT makes it 100 times easier.
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06-17-2012, 03:28 PM
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Proven Member

From: st jacob, Illinois
Registered: Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanwheat
There is nothing that is a nightmare about installing a gst transmission. Those are a piece of cake and can be done without a transmission jack. It is easier with a jack, but it isn't needed like with a heavy awd transmission. I use studs for the bellhousing bolts to slide the transmission over. IT makes it 100 times easier.
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Ill tell you why its going to be tough, bryan. The PO must have stripped the rear roll stop bolts off and decided to WELD it in. You get what im saying? He welded the rear roll stop/engine mount to the chassis! Do you know what i have to do to get MY tranny out? Most likely pull the engine unless i can get to the bolts that hold the bracket on the block. Thats why its going to be tough, bryan..
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06-17-2012, 05:40 PM
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Proven Member

From: Wilmington, North Carolina
Registered: Dec 2006
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Hmmmm...I have never taken off any of my motor mounts when swapping AWD trannies and I'm on my 4th tranny swap thanks to my HX-35.  Plus another couple times over the years to swap clutches & FW. The only one I remove is the one on top of the tranny. I had a FWD before my GSX and I can't remember any significant differences. I know the AWD FW is a tad smaller and I assume the bellhousing probably is too, but I would guess about 1/2" max.
OP, my point is that it should be able to be done with the engine straight. I took off some of the front subframe supports, but it was only 9 bolts total. I know the FWD subframe is somewhat different, but I can't remember how much exactly...
Take off the speed sensor, trans mount & shifter cable brackets. It needs to go in at a angle with the end case down about 30* lower than the bellhousing and cocked forward toward the radiator. Jack it up til the front diff housing gets past the subframe at the rear of the tranny on the firewall side. Then you roll it back toward the firewall, keep jacking it up and squeeze the bottom of the bellhousing past the PP. Once it goes past it, you can start leveling it out and slip the end case past the unibody frame in the wheelwell area. Hope that all makes sense.
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06-17-2012, 07:10 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Columbia, Missouri
Registered: Aug 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boost97gst
Ill tell you why its going to be tough, bryan. The PO must have stripped the rear roll stop bolts off and decided to WELD it in. You get what im saying? He welded the rear roll stop/engine mount to the chassis! Do you know what i have to do to get MY tranny out? Most likely pull the engine unless i can get to the bolts that hold the bracket on the block. Thats why its going to be tough, bryan..
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You just unbolt the roll stop bracket from the transmission. You don't have to remove the mount bracket from the car. Unbolt the front and rear from the transmission and leave them bolted to the car. The front will mount and roll stop will come out when you remove the front to rear crossmember.
Quote:
Originally Posted by My1GLaser
Hmmmm...I have never taken off any of my motor mounts when swapping AWD trannies and I'm on my 4th tranny swap .
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Well on a 2g the front and rear roll stops bolt to the transmission so you won't be able to get the transmission out of the car without unbolting the mounts.
Last edited by bryanwheat; 06-17-2012 at 07:11 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period
Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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06-17-2012, 07:49 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Wilmington, North Carolina
Registered: Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanwheat
Well on a 2g the front and rear roll stops bolt to the transmission so you won't be able to get the transmission out of the car without unbolting the mounts.
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haha, oh a 2G. Yeah I missed that and I am not familiar with them at all
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06-17-2012, 08:19 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Waverly, Tennessee
Registered: Feb 2010
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I don't mean to thread jack but earlier someone mentioned shims.. Has anyone shimmed then slave cylinder?
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06-17-2012, 08:24 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Columbia, Missouri
Registered: Aug 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redliner_x
I don't mean to thread jack but earlier someone mentioned shims.. Has anyone shimmed then slave cylinder?
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The what way that the slave bolts on if you were to shim it than it would be further away from the fork. It wouldn't help anyways if you could get it closer because the travel will be the same.
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