Very Low Clutch Pedal ACT2600

AWD Tuner · 06-07-2012, 07:53 PM

Ok, I have a 92 Laser RS AWD 5spd. Has installed an ACT2600 clutch with sprung street disk, oem throwout bearing, clutch fork, and pivot ball, and extended slave rod. Car has 850 miles on this setup since it was pulled from Detroit and rebuilt. When the trans came out of the car after sitting for a year it had a broken 1-2 shift fork and two shims under the clutch pivot ball. With the act2600 clutch those two shims caused the clutch fork to hit the pressure plate. Both shims came out to fix that.

Drove car as is for 850 miles, clutch was real low on the floor, releasing right off the floor. Slave died next. In went oem unit with dorman clutch master, extremepsi braided clutch line, and extended slave rod off old slave. After gravity bleeding system and the pump up bleeding style the pedal is just as low before, no improvement at all. Feel is improved from braided line however.

Question is, is there a pressure plate that would be shallower or something and allow the pivot ball shims better than my current act2600, is it flywheel runout issue, or would a new trans fix things since every trans is different?

zcoh2gdsm · 06-07-2012, 07:58 PM

you need to adjust the clutch pedal.

AWD Tuner · 06-07-2012, 08:09 PM

Ah forgot to mention, clutch pedal was adjusted all the way out per that video. Clutch master rod is held in to the bracket by just a couple threads.

WES_393 · 06-07-2012, 08:27 PM

Did you replace the clutch fork and pivot ball, or just remove the shims? The previous owner did not replace them if shims were needed. The extended slave rod should also not be needed if those parts are new. No need for a new trans, just a new fork and pivot.

buddy3824 · 06-07-2012, 08:41 PM

Make sure your transmission isn't moving at all, I actually encountered this problem. My bolts had backed off up top, just a little bit! once I tightened those and added an additional bolt by the slave cylinder, to help prevent this from happening again, pedal came right up.

AWD Tuner · 06-08-2012, 06:03 AM

When I put in the act2600 clutch I also put in the oem tob, clutch fork, and pivot ball. No noticeable movement in the trans.

Jafro · 06-08-2012, 11:52 AM

No mention here of the flywheel being machined.

The ACT clutch needs a .610" step height. The factory step height is shallower than this. So in order for you to get your clutch to fully disengage properly, you're having to mash the pedal farther to disengage it. A shim can help, but it's a band-aid on a heart attack.

I have the opposite problem on a car I just inherited. The flywheel is cut for an ACT clutch, but it has a stock clutch installed in it. As a result, the pedal is all the way at the top, and no manner of adjustment will fix it. If you're convinced you've adjusted it properly and it's not pre-loading, then what is your step height?

AWD Tuner · 06-08-2012, 09:51 PM

No I did not have the flywheel machined, just scuffed it up and reused the oem piece. The guy who went through my car has a 2g with 600hp, been that way for years without issues and always ran act equipment so I just went with his suggestions. From what I have found it seems like the step height might be an issue.

Any other views?

NHerron · 06-08-2012, 10:04 PM

This is an excellent link by RRE
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

As mentioned you should NOT need an extended slave rod, it's only masking a problem. That being -something bent, out of spec, or out of adjustment. The shims (under pivot ball) are mentioned in the link towards the bottom

AWD Tuner · 06-09-2012, 06:48 AM

Would it be likely that if my flywheel were not in spec I might have worn down the pivot ball already in the last 850 miles? As in my problems might be a culmination of things now. It doesn't seem likely since everything but the trans and the flywheel have been touched or replaced.

NHerron · 06-09-2012, 11:58 AM

No it isn't very likely the ball and/or socket has already worn down significantly in 850 miles as long grease was applied

What all is new or used?

AWD Tuner · 06-09-2012, 07:04 PM

Do ACT flywheels come from the manufacturer within spec for DSM's or would I need to take it to get machined just like a stock unit?

NHerron · 06-09-2012, 07:09 PM

Not sure on that one

Oh I see now. Yeah you needed to check the step height before reusing the flywheel. Is the disc is being reused too?

AWD Tuner · 06-09-2012, 07:39 PM

No the ACT2600 pressure plate with sprung street disk was purchased brand new. Only thing reused was the trans itself and the flywheel. The flywheel was only scuffed with sandpaper and thrown back on the car.

NHerron · 06-09-2012, 08:00 PM

ACT requires a .608" - .612" step so if the flywheel already had a few thousand miles on it, the step is probably a little deeper at that point so when threw on the ACT it may be too deep and the fingers are residing further in than supposed to. That would cause the fork to sit more toward the trans

IMO the extended rod and 2 shims tells me that flywheel was never properly machined and it's way outta whack

AWD Tuner · 06-09-2012, 09:32 PM

That's where I'm getting with this as well. I think it's time to save up for an ACT flywheel and some Redline tranny fluid. I've replaced everything else.

NHerron · 06-09-2012, 09:58 PM

I have an ACT2600 with OEM flywheel same setup as you with everything in spec A to Z just for reference. I mean I haven't looked into lightweight flywheels yet but so far the stock flywheel is great for what I need

AWD Tuner · 06-11-2012, 10:26 AM

Is there such thing as a flywheel having too little material left for it to be turned? I'm concerned about the condition especially since like you said there was already an extended slave with two shims.

snowborder714 · 06-11-2012, 10:30 AM

Yes, it's possible. You should always measure the flywheel step height before installing and make sure it's within spec. See step marked IMPORTANT in this link.
1G AWD Clutch install

kchaazz · 06-11-2012, 10:45 AM

I bet your pedal assembly is shot and in need of a rebuild. Push the pedal to the floor, let it come up on its own, then grab the pedal and pull up. If it moves at all, it is worn. Sometimes, the wear can still not be made apparent in that test, so, to be absolutely sure, you either unscrew the master cylinder rod completely from the clevis, or remove the clevis pin and then push the pedal to the floor and pull it up by hand- a worn pedal will make a pronounced snap on the way down, and one on the way up as the worn parts slip on each other. You will never get the clutch to release properly with a worn assembly, and most are worn, you just dont realize it until you put an ACT 2600 in...

AWD Tuner · 06-11-2012, 07:16 PM

I already looked into and had someone else verify that my pedal assembly didn't have play. Surprisingly everything seemed ok.

Just ordered a partially used ACT 6 bolt awd chromoly flywheel. I plan on taking it to my local automotive machine shop and have it resurfaced as soon as I get it, hopefully this fixes my issues!!

AWD Tuner · 09-05-2012, 01:01 PM

Got the flywheel machined and installed with new Redline MT90 trans fluid. Only with the help of a pivot ball shim and extended slave rod is it marginally better engagement level. Completely lost at this point. Auto swap?...

NHerron · 09-06-2012, 12:12 AM

Is this the "partially used ACT 6 bolt awd chromoly flywheel" you bought a couple months ago? Well, what step height was it set to? Most business places have the specs handy but it's still a good idea to doublecheck to make sure everyone's on the same page.

How did the fork look? The socket is difficult to tell if it's worn also.

Besides that, maybe the engine has some extensive crank thrust bearing wear if it's high milage. Are you absolutyl sure the pedal assembly isn't worn and the threaded rod is adjusted?

talon1990TSi · 09-06-2012, 02:59 AM

I got a act 2900 with the street disk. I have the same issue but it seems to be working great. I have the extended rod only. My clutch master cylinder is adjusted all the way out also. I think its just the way it is. My buddy has a act 3200 with 6 puck same deal. I wouldn't worry about it, if its getting gears and not slipping you should be good.

jmartinez1228 · 09-06-2012, 05:59 AM

With the exception of the extended slave rod I have the exact same setup you have. Ran into the same exact issue as well. Replaced my clutch pedal assembly and all my problems went away.
Everything was checked over and over and within spec, the pedal assembly had no play either.

AWD Tuner · 09-06-2012, 08:04 AM

Yes this is the same used ACT flywheel, I personally told them the specs when I dropped it off at the machine shop. I saw on the paper work when I picked it up the machinist notated how much he took off and the current step height.

The fork visually looked the same and uninstalled and installed the same. Again the fork only has 1000 miles. Slave and master are oem, have maybe 200 miles.

I've had three different dsm owners verify adjustment is where it should be, it is. Fork in boot is right at center or just to the right of it. Haven't been able to find any slack in pedal assembly.

Only thing I can figure is 1: used flywheel which has been machined a couple times I assume while having the same step height has less material which is affecting clutch finger placement and 2: send out pedal assembly for welding?

talon1990TSi · 09-06-2012, 08:02 PM

your problem is your master cylinder rod is maxed out. If you want you can put a bolt on the end and add a stud. Just have the nut welded on both ends that way your stud wont come off. My shell had one like this in it. I took it out and replaced it with a new one. ever since its been close to off the floor. but I will say you are going to be taking a chance of bending the fingers on your PP. Just leave it alone and deal with the pedal where it is now.

NHerron · 09-06-2012, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AWD Tuner

Only thing I can figure is 1: used flywheel which has been machined a couple times I assume while having the same step height has less material which is affecting clutch finger placement ...

That could be a factor also, however I do not know the spec for it. Maybe air in the system, or leaking slave/master cylinder?

I wouldn't let it stay that way, it would drive me crazy knowing the car left the factory working properly. So there is obviously a fix, it's just finding what fix that is

AWD Tuner · 09-07-2012, 07:46 AM

NHerron that's what's bothering me, my old 92 Laser RS Fwd was completely stock parts at 167k miles and felt great. My minty 98 Civic almost rivals it.

While the act flywheel could have a material height issue the point I am also realizing is that the issue was still apparent before the new flywheel, so it was preexisting in the mix of parts including the stock flywheel that were already on there. I haven't done pedal assembly yet so maybe that's next. Or a new master cylinder.

Or auto swap??

NHerron · 09-07-2012, 10:58 PM

To me, if the fork arm is still centered (or better -towards the driver side) after pumping the clutch a few times, you're good everywhere past the fork. That being the ball, socket, TOB, PP, disc, FW, and thrust bearing. I would point to something BEFORE the bell housing components in other words

I can't remember how far the fork end moves when the clutch system is functioning properly, but I can take a video of mine for reference if you want to see. That would give you something to compare against at least