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Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.

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Old 06-03-2012, 03:51 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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From: Blountville, Tennessee
Registered: Jun 2012
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Need help with electrical issues and vacuum lines


Talon pictures by PuNk3rz - Photobucket


1995 Eagle Talon TSi, AWD, 5spd, 140k

I just bought this car for $500 because it wouldn't run and the owner couldn't figure out why.
After checking the fuses, the main 100amp fuse was blown. I believe this is what was causing it not to start although I could be wrong.
Would that fuse cause it to crank but not start?
I have a few questions, and I tried searing for a vacuum diagram but couldn't find one.

Are all these vacuum lines hooked up correctly? Notice, one is blocked off with a screw. I'm guessing it is an EGR removal or something.


I found this wiring dangling, and I'm wondering where it goes. Is it positive or negative?


Should either of these be hooked up? My buddy told me the vacuum lines were fine but there should be a sensor on that 2 prong one.


What plug is this? Where does it go, and what does it do?
There is also a black and a red wire coming from the harness that were just hanging there as well. What would this be?

Thanks to anyone that can help me.
Normally I wouldn't have this problem, but I bought the car like this and have no idea where they go.



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Old 06-03-2012, 04:14 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...am-removal-1g-
2g.html

That appears to be a 1g throttle body on there and that is why one of the ports is blocked off.

Also is the TPS not bolted down?


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Old 06-03-2012, 04:25 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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From: Blountville, Tennessee
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no, the tps sensor isn't connected, I noticed it was only being held on with one bolt and in the process of removing it I dropped it in the engine bay. lol

Is there a way to tell if I have a 6 bolt engine?

Last edited by punk3rz; 06-03-2012 at 04:27 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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Old 06-03-2012, 05:11 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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How to quickly tell a 6bolt and 7bolt engine apart

The intake manifold is from a 2g so I would hope the head is also. But here is how you can tell from the block.

I was looking at your photobucket, and im on my phone so the pictures are only so big, but it appears to have a 6bolt CAS. It also looks like the 6bolt coolant temp sensor in your above picture. So my guess would be you have a 6bolt head and block, but I could be wrong.


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Old 06-03-2012, 06:26 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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I'm not near the car right now to check but it does have a new head on it. And it said 4g63 kd0505 or something along those lines on the block if that matters. Either way I need help lol.

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Old 06-04-2012, 12:30 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-cont...02/1gina2g.pdf That should help you out with checking everything out to see if it was done right or completed. I haven't looked much into a 6bolt swap so I wont be of much help but hopefully someone else will chime in.


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Old 06-04-2012, 08:22 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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Confirmed that it is a 1g TB, does it look wired right? I really need some help guys:/

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Old 06-04-2012, 09:41 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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If its 2g intake its a 2g head. No way the 2g would correctly fit the 1g head. It can have a 2g head on 6bolt block though.

Not sure why someone would wire in a 1g cas, take a picture of the cam gears area. Look for cut wires behind the intake cam gear or a loose connector

That dangling blue wire more than likely clips onto the power steering pump but its missing its connector piece. Does the power steering pump have a wire running off of it?

I didn't notice a screw anywhere are you talking about the biggish one in throttle body?


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Old 06-05-2012, 06:42 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Yea its a 2g intake, just found some oil on 2 valves, should i go ahead and replace these seals? Im not sure if im even keeping the car as of right now, just trying to get it running and if i get it running well enough ill keep it. Still confused on whether the vacuum lines are hooked up right and the other electrical issues

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Old 06-05-2012, 09:41 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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Hopefully the car will grow on ya sorry you're having so many issues. Luckily though you can find just about every answer to any question here on tuners. Its been said some people here know more about the car than the Mitsu engineers hah

Anyway, I would just get the car running first since the head was supposedly rebuilt recently... Once you get it running you'll know by if theres lots of blue smoke

Try this-
How To Diagnose A No-Start


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Old 06-05-2012, 10:54 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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Here's my 2 cents worth.
dont worry about the vacum hoses until it runs. just make sure to plug the vacum leaks.
First things to check on any non running engine that will crank: Fuel & Spark.

on an injected engine, turn the key on. If you hear the pump run for a few seconds and stop, then most likely the fuel is ok.

Pull 1 spark plug wire, and stick a new plug in it, hold it to the valve cover, and have someone crank the engine.. if you are getting spark, go back to looking at a fuel problem.

it looks to me like your car has at 1 time had a 6 bolt conversion, and now possibly someone tried to put a 2g motor back in? just a guess?

I know that using a 6 bolt cas in a 95 results in a red & a black wire left over, because thats how mine is.

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Old 06-05-2012, 04:45 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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Also i just looked at the head and it seems like 2 valve stem seals are leaking. Will i beable to replace them without resurfacing the head?

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Old 06-05-2012, 05:03 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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Well if you already pulled off the head... look through these guides. This member (BogusSVO) is one of the DSM machinists
If you can check it for excessive warp you may not have to surface

Heads off finally with pics


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Old 06-05-2012, 07:37 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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My FP kicks on so I'm guessing it's the spark. I'll try and get it running once my turbo comes in. The current one is touching the housing so I'm afraid to even use it.

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Old 06-05-2012, 07:56 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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If your turbo is into the housing, it is already wasted. running it a few minutes more will not make any difference. I wouldnt put a new turbo on until I know the motor runs, as you might waste a new turbo.
Figure out the crank sensor pickup wiring. does it have a sensor under the cam gears, or is it connected to the CAS only?
Sounds to me like whoever owned it last could not figure out the ignition. -Understandable, as 95-96's are a real headache if someone attempted to do a 6 bolt conversion.

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Old 06-05-2012, 08:04 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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as for the turbo, I'm afraid of getting metal shavings in the engine...

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Old 06-05-2012, 08:09 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95Tallytsi View Post
I really need help also and sorry for jacking the thread but my 95 isnt running either due to these lines not hooked up i have two rubber hoses that come from oil filter housing and reach over to these but no idea which ones are water and oil??? Please help
I would start your own thread on this.

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Old 06-05-2012, 08:12 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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coolant lines

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Old 06-05-2012, 08:17 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanwheat View Post
i would start your own thread on this.
how?

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Old 06-05-2012, 08:19 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #20 (permalink)
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Unless you think the turbo is ready to grenade into peices, there is little danger of getting shavings into the engine. I have run turbos until they had 1/4" of lateral shaft play. it may smoke like a locomotive, but no real harm to the engine. I would prefer to fix the other issues before putting a new turbo on, especially if you are waiting on it.

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Old 06-05-2012, 08:19 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by punk3rz View Post
coolant lines

they are all coolant lines? and as for the lines coming from the OFH?? im a noob i need help its a 95 with the 14b on it

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Old 06-05-2012, 08:21 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95Tallytsi View Post
how?
Go to the newb forum section, click new thread and make a new thread. Take more pics of all the hoses under the turbo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiwinder View Post
Unless you think the turbo is ready to grenade into peices, there is little danger of getting shavings into the engine. I have run turbos until they had 1/4" of lateral shaft play. it may smoke like a locomotive, but no real harm to the engine. I would prefer to fix the other issues before putting a new turbo on, especially if you are waiting on it.
IF the compressor wheel is possibly hitting the housing than there is a chance of debris getting into the cylinders.

Last edited by bryanwheat; 06-05-2012 at 08:21 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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Old 06-05-2012, 08:24 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #23 (permalink)
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There are 2 coolant lines on the turbo, 1 on front and 1 on back, and 2 oil lines, one coming off the top and 1 off the bottom going to the oil pan.

And tomorrow I'll try putting everything together, but I'm still missing a few things...
I do have another question though,
Would the 100amp fuse cause the car not to start? Because when I got the car it was blown and it took out the power seats, stereo, windows, locks, and I was thinking it possibly wasn't giving power to the fuel pump.
Just a guess but I think it's linked to that fuse of why it wouldn't start.
Also where can I find lower injector O rings and tps bolts
After that I can put her back together!

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Old 06-05-2012, 08:28 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by punk3rz View Post
There are 2 coolant lines on the turbo, 1 on front and 1 on back, and 2 oil lines, one coming off the top and 1 off the bottom going to the oil pan.

And tomorrow I'll try putting everything together, but I'm still missing a few things...
I do have another question though,
Would the 100amp fuse cause the car not to start? Because when I got the car it was blown and it took out the power seats, stereo, windows, locks, and I was thinking it possibly wasn't giving power to the fuel pump.
Just a guess but I think it's linked to that fuse of why it wouldn't start.
Also where can I find lower injector O rings and tps bolts
After that I can put her back together!
You can get the lower isolators at napa or the dealership. You can also use 3/8 grommets from the hardware store, they tend to harden up faster than the oem parts though. You can also get the bolts from the hardware store, m5x.8.

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Old 06-05-2012, 08:29 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #25 (permalink)
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by punk3rz View Post
there are 2 coolant lines on the turbo, 1 on front and 1 on back, and 2 oil lines, one coming off the top and 1 off the bottom going to the oil pan.

And tomorrow i'll try putting everything together, but i'm still missing a few things...
I do have another question though,
would the 100amp fuse cause the car not to start? Because when i got the car it was blown and it took out the power seats, stereo, windows, locks, and i was thinking it possibly wasn't giving power to the fuel pump.
Just a guess but i think it's linked to that fuse of why it wouldn't start.
Also where can i find lower injector o rings and tps bolts
after that i can put her back together!
as for the two coming from oil filter housing one is a coolant line also??

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Old 06-05-2012, 08:35 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95Tallytsi View Post
as for the two coming from oil filter housing one is a coolant line also??
You asking your question in this thread has caused some confusion, i think he is talking about his setup and you are under the assumption that he is trying to answer your question. It would be a good idea for a mod to delete a few post's in this thread so that it isn't so confusing.

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Old 06-06-2012, 06:43 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #27 (permalink)
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Ordered injector o rings today, and got the bolts. Tomorrow I may beable to put it back together. I have another question though, what size bolts are the ones that hold the header on? The guy I bought it off of has all the screws thrown in a cup and the screws don't seem to fit right and I don't wanna strip out the head so i may need to get new bolts. I have the bottom studs, just not the top...

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Old 06-06-2012, 07:00 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #28 (permalink)
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There are

(7) M8 studs
(7) M8 flat washers
(7) M8 pinchnuts
(2) M10 studs
(2) M10 flat washers
(2) M10 pinchnuts

Like this
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

For good measure you might put a little RTV on the stud which is in the middle, bottom. That stud threads into an oil drain back from the head. Although, I didn't go RTV and haven't had a leak but some people do -just lettin' yaknow.

BUT be careful tightening if aluminum threads are coated with oil, as it's pretty easy to strip

Now would be a good time to check over that tubular mani for cracks etc.


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Old 06-09-2012, 04:18 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #29 (permalink)
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Help

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Old 06-09-2012, 04:20 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #30 (permalink)
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Description maybe?


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