rear camber issue

scottyhops · 06-02-2012, 07:40 PM

i have Tokico Illumina with Eibach 1.2" lowering springs, with all this time paying attention to my engine i didn't look at the rear tires..seem to find that my metal bar on my tire is showing. there is a decent amount of camber and i want to get it perfectly flat or close to being flat. I think I'm going to just use washers and longer bolts. But my question it how many washers did everyone use, kind of a general question but i was thinking 3 washers per bolt?

rx7ttlm · 06-02-2012, 07:44 PM

Jesus, don't go around throwing washers at things just for the sake of doing so. If your going to do something like that at least evaluate what is going wrong in the system FIRST. Know your camber and what each change will do to the final value. Honestly the toe is likely what is removing the tread from your tires. On my 2g I run 2.5 degrees of front camber and 1.75 rear with an ass ton of caster and my tires last because I have very little toe. If you have changed the ride height without doing an alignment that is what ground your tire off not the camber.

scottyhops · 06-02-2012, 08:03 PM

i tried to mark it on the tire where it was worn, (old pic) but wouldn't it be camber more because its steady all around the tire, it looks like its ridding on only an 1in of the tire the way it is worn out

Ozone302 · 06-02-2012, 08:41 PM

Yeah that's where camber affects the tires. It's from lowering the car and not getting it aligned properly.

And to the guy that said its not camber.. Wtf are you talking about? 99% of the time when you lower a car and don't align it, the camber is what ruins tires. You obviously have no clue about tire wear problems. Toe causes feathering. Camber causes solid wear like the OP described.

scottyhops · 06-02-2012, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ozone302

Yeah that's where camber affects the tires. It's from lowering the car and not getting it aligned properly.

And to the guy that said its not camber.. Wtf are you talking about? 99% of the time when you lower a car and don't align it, the camber is what ruins tires. You obviously have no clue about tire wear problems. Toe causes feathering. Camber causes solid wear like the OP described.

thought so, i was confused cause i thought i had a lived dodge and had toe problems with that and it didn't look at all similar. but back to my statement with adjusting the upper control arm with the washers that should do it right? I'm pretty sure thats the only way to adjust camber or buy camber plates which i don't have time for

red_devil · 06-03-2012, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ozone302

Yeah that's where camber affects the tires. It's from lowering the car and not getting it aligned properly.

And to the guy that said its not camber.. Wtf are you talking about? 99% of the time when you lower a car and don't align it, the camber is what ruins tires. You obviously have no clue about tire wear problems. Toe causes feathering. Camber causes solid wear like the OP described.

Toe will wear a tire much faster than camber. Most of the time when camber is out you will get even wear on the edge of the tire, with tow you will get excessive edge wear and the tire will have more chop. The best thing to do is get it aligned to see what you have, then you can start to play with washers and longer bolts.

wahl · 06-03-2012, 11:24 AM

Our cars are camber monsters in the rear, but the thing that is really going to affect tire wear is toe. Go get it aligned and ask for a print out of your rear specs and then if its more then 2.5 degrees get some washers. Not hard. Also use the search button, its the best tool in your box.

scottyhops · 06-03-2012, 01:17 PM

front left/front right
camber=-1.1/-1.3
caster=4.4/4.8
toe=.28/0.17

back left/back right
camber=-1.9/-1.8
toe=-0.45/0.13

thats the sheet i got from firestone

snowborder714 · 06-03-2012, 01:25 PM

1. Fix your toe. Get it much closer to 0 than it currently is. You should not run more than .01 or so all around - preferably much less. I'm sure that -.45 in the rear is causing all kinds of wear, plus couple that with the camber and you've got to have issues. Note - the camber doesn't cause a lot of wear, but the toe will extenuate it.

2. I'd try 3 washers in the rear (pending on how thick they are) and see what your camber is. Here's my experiences with washers that are 0.10" thick:

No spacers on the rear control arm: -1.5* camber
0.60" of spacer on the rear control arm: -0.2* camber

scottyhops · 06-03-2012, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snowborder714

1. Fix your toe. Get it much closer to 0 than it currently is. You should not run more than .01 or so all around - preferably much less. I'm sure that -.45 in the rear is causing all kinds of wear, plus couple that with the camber and you've got to have issues. Note - the camber doesn't cause a lot of wear, but the toe will extenuate it.

2. I'd try 3 washers in the rear (pending on how thick they are) and see what your camber is. Here's my experiences with washers that are 0.10" thick:

No spacers on the rear control arm: -1.5* camber
0.60" of spacer on the rear control arm: -0.2* camber

yea i was gonna have the toe get fixed but my dad was like its pointless to fix the toe when I'm gonna fix the camber in the rear, i want the rear as close to 0* as i can get. i just daily drive the car so nothing special

snowborder714 · 06-03-2012, 02:18 PM

Not as pointless as you think. Toe will eat tires quickly. Camber won't, but will add to the wear if toe is out. I'd fix toe ASAP, especially since you DD it. Camber at the current settings won't cause many issues for a bit if not fix, but toe will.

clipto · 06-03-2012, 05:09 PM

I just payed $530 for my camber kit. My front's where like -1.9 and my rears where like -2.8 they where eating up my tires in the front due to more weight then my gutted trunk. MY tires where almost bald in the front and riding on the inside of the tire almost to the cords, and that was just after a few months of just lowering it.

scottyhops · 06-03-2012, 08:51 PM

yeah i want to have it adjusted seeing I'm moving back to state college and its a 4hrs drive, and i looked into doing the fronts and total for both sides its going to be like $160 and for the rears i can just do the washer trick

red_devil · 06-04-2012, 03:28 AM

Your front camber is ok, just do the rear washer trick.

95_gsx_tuner · 06-04-2012, 10:12 AM

Get your toe straight and see where the camber comes out to then. After I straightened my toe up, I had 3 .10" washers with 1.5" drop springs. I stress again though, get the toe straight, it's a tire killer!!!

snowborder714 · 06-04-2012, 10:14 AM

Also keep in mind that when you adjust the camber (if you just adjust toe right now), the toe will have to be rechecked and adjusted as it will change.

scottyhops · 06-04-2012, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snowborder714

Also keep in mind that when you adjust the camber (if you just adjust toe right now), the toe will have to be rechecked and adjusted as it will change.

yes i know that

jtmcinder · 06-04-2012, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 95_gsx_tuner

Get your toe straight and see where the camber comes out to then.

Since changing the toe has absolutely no effect on camber, my guess is that the camber will be exactly where it is now.

Remember, kids: changing camber alters toe, but changing toe doesn't affect camber. That's why, when you do an alignment, you always do the camber first.