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Finished bottom end, need head suggestions

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DSM_Rastafari

10+ Year Contributor
101
0
Mar 12, 2012
Tallahassee, Florida
Only did the bottom end of my motor and kept the head stock because it was my DD at the time, featuring Nitrided crank wiesco pistons and crower rods, The head remains stock but refreshed and powder coated. This Fall i plan on building the head and bigger turbo

This is what i have my mind set on so far:
AEM cam gears
ARP head studs
ARP cam tower studs
Cosmetic head gasket


But as for cams and valves, valves springs and etc i have no idea on what to go with. My plans are to turbo it with a 20G and try to get 400-450hp, and keeping it in the drag lane

Any suggestions on the head build?

Also, i plan on using the obx ram horn equal length manifold, anyone use this if so how is it? And what would be better than this manifold?
 
Only did the bottom end of my motor and kept the head stock because it was my DD at the time, featuring Nitrided crank wiesco pistons and crower rods, The head remains stock but refreshed and powder coated. This Fall i plan on building the head and bigger turbo

This is what i have my mind set on so far:
AEM cam gears
ARP head studs
ARP cam tower studs
Cosmetic head gasket


But as for cams and valves, valves springs and etc i have no idea on what to go with. My plans are to turbo it with a 20G and try to get 400-450hp, and keeping it in the drag lane

Any suggestions on the head build?

Also, i plan on using the obx ram horn equal length manifold, anyone use this if so how is it? And what would be better than this manifold?

i haven't heard to many things about the obx mani. i was going to buy it but i didn't know if it would work with the stock hood. the list looks good so far the only thing I'm wondering is powder coated head? wouldn't you want the head to escape faster?
 
Kiggly springs, GSC s2 cams and buy a pte 6266 and have fantastic results on pump gas. I would not really waste time in a 20g but instead go with either a evoIII 16g or get a nice 62mm turbo to get the gases flowing.
 
He said 400-450hp, but did not specify the manner or fuel (i assumed 93 octane). It would most certainly be easiest and the most safe to achieve that goal on a medium frame turbo.
 
i have a garrett 60trim, .48/.62 i believe it is and I'm at 20psi now with heads mostly stock port on intake mani side and 232 cams. not to sure what I'm making in hp exact but it stays with a stock evo an barely gets pulled on by an evo at 340 wheel
 
i haven't heard to many things about the obx mani. i was going to buy it but i didn't know if it would work with the stock hood. the list looks good so far the only thing I'm wondering is powder coated head? wouldn't you want the head to escape faster?

I've heard that the effects were minimal and that the poweder coat doesnt effect it ss much?

I plan to run pump gas 93station octane. Anyone ever thought about running e85?
 
Here is my advice for you:

-You shouldn't Need ARP cam tower bolts.

-The OBX manifold interferes with the thermostat housing from the research I found when I was building my car. Not sure what you would fab up to fix that. Also expect it to crack on you after a short while since OBX uses thinners metals usually. I'm not sure if they have updated their design, but I didn't feel like being a guinea pig

- 2.7L Rockers

- PT Cruiser Lifters

-Crane valve springs

-You can get 1mm over-sized valves if you feel like it, but if you just get an angle job done on the stocks you should be fine.

-Crower 2 Turbo grind cams

To be honest our head actually flows pretty well. It out flows the 1g and 2g 4g63 heads stock for stock. When I did my rebuild I just went with a nice valve job, upgraded to 2.7L Rockers, upgraded to PT Cruiser Lifters and kept the rest stock. The stock head has been up to 500hp by Hahn so it must do a pretty decent job.
 
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