1G Electrical issue...

[1gcrazy]

So I just picked up a 93 TSI AWD with a 6 bolt. It was converted from Auto to 5 speed a few years back. Guy also did a tuck job. Didn't look like he did that bad of a job but it didn't concern me much until now. I bought it not running. It cranks and cranks and cranks but wont fire. The guy said he'd done a bunch of trouble shooting naming off all the first few things I could think of. I just want to start fresh and see if any of you guys could throw a few ideas in here.

I haven't had but a few minutes diagnosing the car but this is what i've done so far.

180 degree the CAS
Switched between a few working(?) ECU's
swapped out Fuel pump relay with a known working one.
Fuel pump is already wired to a switch so thats coming on

These are the things I'm going to check:
Fuses
Power to ECU
Check each sensor at the ECU to ensure the Tuck was done right
Timing
....

Any other thoughts??
Talk amongst yourselves....

 

[slonkey]

Well remember the 3 things for it to run. Gas, air, and spark. Check if your wires are good. Second plugs. Third I'd check fuel pressure and if u are getting any (injectors). Then I'd check your air. First I'd do maybe a vac leak test. I've known a few people that had a similar problem because a vac leak. then the sensors. Also been known if more then 2 or so sensors are bad it throws the whole system off.(maf,fpr,o2...ect)

Good luck that's about all I know, I'm kinda new. And sorry if it don't help. Just trying my best to help the best.

Can you get any codes, forget to ask.

 

[1gcrazy]

New developement.

Blinker lights illuminate on the dash any time the battery is connect and the mpi/fuel pump relay under the radio is energized as well so both the blinker lights on the dash and the relay stays energized when the battery is hooked up.

Also I'm a bit drunk still this morning and to quickly check to see of the cas is good I swapped it with a green top cas and still the same problem.
Did verify that 12v was getting to the maf and cas

OOOOK......
Here we go. Did a bit of troubleshooting on the car today.

Turns out the dumbass didn't put the Injector resister box back in the car after the wire tuck. Installed that and it sounded like it wanted to spark but it never actually did.

I did verify spark. I THINK I even verified the injectors were firing. I hooked up an DVOM to the injector harness and I saw the needle on the DVOM move slightly in a rythmic pattern. It was throwing a 41 code in the car, thats how I new it needed the resistor box. Then I sprayed some brake clean in the car to see if it would kick over and hopefully keep going but it wouldn't even kick over with brake clean.
I even pulled the plugs to see if its getting gas and the plugs were slightly wet and smelled like gas...I think. Thats when I sprayed brake clean in each cylinder and it wanted the start on like 2 revs but it wasn't very convincing...

CTS is hooked up.
The plugs are black but they are still sparking.

Checked the timing and it's dead on. Definitely has compression since when I checked timing I could barely move the damn crank with a 1/2'' ratchet.

Still not running. Kind of lost at this point...

 

[slonkey]

Lol a bit drunk. Well on the plugs... They are fouled out? Like a oil? If so...

OIL FOULED
A spark plug shorted by excessive oil entering the combustion chamber is shown below. This is often caused by piston rings or cylinder walls that are badly worn. Oil may also be pulled into the chamber because of excessive clearance in the valve stem guides, or badly worn valve stem seals. If the PCV valve is plugged or inoperative, it can cause a buildup of crankcase pressure. This condition can force oil and oil vapors past the rings and valve guides into the combustion chamber.
Want to post a picture, it could help.


And you said your hazzards are always on. Check to make sure the button isn't on? If not, hmmm I dont really know what that means.

 

[Talon IV]

Just to possibly rule out the ECU, is your check engine light on with key on, engine off? And when you try to start the car, does the radio turn off while cranking? It sounds like you have a short to power with the hazards always on, or he wired them wrong during the tuck, making them hot when running...

 

[1gcrazy]

CEL does come on. That was one of the first things I checked. I dont think the turn signals are affected by the tuck though... I'm gonna play with a new blinker relay and see what that does.

 

[1gcrazy]

Just checked injector pulse with an LED and a resistor and i'm getting a signal to all 4 injectors.
Also checked spark yesterday and that's good.
Could be coolant temp sensor but i'm not sure. Even with brake clean in the intake manifold it didn't fire right away...

Going to advance to pick up new plugs and starter fluid...

New plugs and starter fluid didn't help...

 

[obsidian]

Are your plugs on in the right order?

Are your plug wires good?

Are you getting fuel?

Is your air meter good? (MAF)

 

[1gcrazy]

I've swapped out mafs, wires and order are right. Yes i'm getting fuel...

This is crazy. When the problems get difficult, getting help is impossible...

 

[longislandDSM]

Where exactly are you spraying teh starter fluid? Because it's not gna start if you disconnect the intercooler piping before the intake and spray there. It'l just be one giant vacuum leak. I would disconnect the fuel return line after the fpr and run it directly to a bucket and crank. Confirm you have gas spitting out then move on. Next I would start checking for spark.

 

[1gcrazy]

I've already checked for spark and I pull the intercooler piping, open the throttle body, spray and then reinstall the piping. Then crank and it wont fire.

 

[rEclipserGST]

I believe you stated this was an auto. I had a no-start issue after replacing a starter. For some reason, I had to feather the throttle for it to start. Then it proceeded to idle terrible, until it evened out with no feathering the throttle. Try that.

Good find on the transistor pack for the injectors, very much overlooked. I would swap wires, and try to jump it as well.

Test battery, then alternator if you can. I've heard sometimes they don't put out enough cranking amps. I've fought a few battery/alternator issues before. More than my share.

 

[yhype]

Really sounds like you got the plug wires on the coils backwards.

 

[1gcrazy]

I believe you stated this was an auto. I had a no-start issue after replacing a starter. For some reason, I had to feather the throttle for it to start. Then it proceeded to idle terrible, until it evened out with no feathering the throttle. Try that.

Good find on the transistor pack for the injectors, very much overlooked. I would swap wires, and try to jump it as well.

Test battery, then alternator if you can. I've heard sometimes they don't put out enough cranking amps. I've fought a few battery/alternator issues before. More than my share.

Battery is brand new. Alternator is fine.
Auto was converted to manual. It ran after the swap.
I'm going to swap out the coil thing under the coil. The name escapes me right now. I'm going to change THAT because I hear if it's weak it will produce spark but wont ignite, which sounds weird but whatever its worth a shot.

Really sounds like you got the plug wires on the coils backwards.

I already checked it. Thats one of those dumbass things you check first just to be sure. If it were bad it would most likely be backfiring... Thanks for the thought though...

 

[obsidian]

So you have fuel because the plugs are wet.

You have spark because you've pulled the plugs and watched spark jump across the leads.

And you have air.

Sir, the ONLY thing I can see here is the spark plugs MAY be backwards. You say you've checked them several times but something I've seen is that when someone does a swap they have to adjust the plug wires.

It being a 6bolt swap you may need to see if the plug wires for THAT ENGINE are in the correct location.

I'm spouting from memory but I belive if the engine is like this...

Pass side...... 4-3-2-1..... driver's side

Then the plug wires are like such...

Front 4-1-2-3 rear.

Verify that. It's a 6 bolt so the plug order may be different than the seven bolt that it originally came with.

 

[1gcrazy]

So you have fuel because the plugs are wet.

You have spark because you've pulled the plugs and watched spark jump across the leads.

And you have air.

Sir, the ONLY thing I can see here is the spark plugs MAY be backwards. You say you've checked them several times but something I've seen is that when someone does a swap they have to adjust the plug wires.

It being a 6bolt swap you may need to see if the plug wires for THAT ENGINE are in the correct location.

I'm spouting from memory but I belive if the engine is like this...

Pass side...... 4-3-2-1..... driver's side

Then the plug wires are like such...

Front 4-1-2-3 rear.

Verify that. It's a 6 bolt so the plug order may be different than the seven bolt that it originally came with.

First of all the firing order on both the 6 and 7 bolt are the same. It was an obvious helpful idea the first time. It's getting insulting. The plug wires are right. End of story. I'm not incompetent.

If its the only thing you see here then you should sit back and let someone else chime in who has more experience. This isn't just your run of the mill problem.
It could also be compression, ECU ground, weak spark, and obviously a bad/loose wire somewhere or it would start. Switching around the plugs wont do anything...

I appreciate you trying to be helpful but offering the same advice over and over again wont help.

 

[1gcrazy]

Anyone else? This still is not solved...