You are currently browsing the site as a "Guest", which means your are either not registered or not logged in. This also means you have limited access to our site and cannot participate - you also are browsing the site with more advertisements than logged-in members.
Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.
I am currently in a position to get a 96 Eclipse GSX. I'm going up to central jersey to check it out, drive it etc etc before I make the decision. The car is very clean and from pictures looks pretty well kept, It needs some work but Challenge accepted.
1996 Eclipse GSX 5 speed, its got a 6 bolt swap, 16g turbo, greddy type rs bov, apexi turbo back exhaust, fmic, 6 puck clutch, greddy PRofec B spec 2 boost controller, AEM wide band A/F guage, Alpine flip out. Its un-tuned right now at 8lbs, runs and drives fine as his daily. He's asking 3600 for it. What concerns me is the timing belt of the 6-bolt mainly, I know they need regular replacing but I'd like to have time to learn it all hands on before NEEDING a new one right away. Anything I should pay attention to or look for?
Hey everyone,
Anything I should pay attention to or look for?
Other than the fact that the recirculation hose isn't recirculated? Engine compression. If you can't do it yourself take it to a mechanic. Take your time to look everything over. Test drive. Repeat above steps.
He's asking 3600 for it. What concerns me is the timing belt of the 6-bolt mainly, I know they need regular replacing but I'd like to have time to learn it all hands on before NEEDING a new one right away
Price ain't bad, and belts DON't need replacing on a regular basis if the driving is mainly on a sane and DD basis.
Any paperwork on the mods and service done on the thing to track?
If not, best do the belts on a pronto basis. You can take off the upper belt sprocket cover and see what the belt looks like, visually, but prob wouldn't hurt to go ahead and do the change...
And, if no paperwork, it's just another risk to take - either you got a gem, or a lemon.
If a lemon, don't plan on getting your 3600 back when you do a resale.
Best I can offer right now..others will chime in on their suggestions since they really can't give definite answers - like I'm giving now.
Other than the fact that the recirculation hose isn't recirculated? Engine compression. If you can't do it yourself take it to a mechanic. Take your time to look everything over. Test drive. Repeat above steps.
Just noticed that. On the intake right? Supposed to be connected to that BoV
Yeah this is why I'm going up in person, I'll point it out. Wondering how he'll feel if I ask to compression test it.
Don't conform to what he wants, you are the buyer, you are dictating the sale. He's the one who wants to unload the car, you are unsure if you want to buy. He should be cool with you checking the car out unless hes shady. You have to make allowances when you are selling a vehicle, hopefully he understands this. If you need some other pointers PM me, I think I can get you ready for when you go to look at the car. I have a good idea what to look for.
I have said this before. its a bad idea to buy somebody elses project car. If its a runner and is reliable,, then well, it probably still has problems. I wouldnt touch it except for dirt cheap. At 3600 this seller is trying to recoup some investment from all the fancy parts, and the swap. Its probably got 3600 in parts and labor alone. If you plan on daily driving it right away,, be very weary. If you want to toss 3600 at a project car,, then by all means do it!
Some simple logic: Its a nice looking car, with alot of work and parts on it. Why then is it for sale for 3600? If it runs as great as the spec sheet would suggest a well sorted car like that should run, then its worth more money. I would guess its an unsorted head ach and the owner is sick of dealing with it.
Just my .02. I only buy clean unmolested DSMs, been burnt and learned.
Doing a compression test is a good idea. Like mentioned visually check the timing belt. Check the turbo for shaft play. Look for oil leaks. Make sure there is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. Check for grinding in the transmission. 99% of dsm's being sold these days are going to have problems. What it comes down to is how much you are willing to fix/pay to get the car to where it needs to be.
On top of making sure it is mechanically sound I would also check for rust. Look at the strut towers, core support and inside the rear quarters. Those are three common trouble spots for our cars.
Also I notice he has a 1g radiator in there. Make sure he took the proper steps to install that right. I have seen people just let the radiator sit on the crossmember instead of cutting and rewelding the mounting tabs for it.
Id say from the description its an excellent deal. T belt changes are hard in ANY fwd 4 cylinder. The 4g63 is no exception.
The number one "tip" i can offer in owning a dsm: Get ready to spend money. Its gonna happen one way or the other.
Also like another said, do a comp test. If its stock compression you should see atleast 170 on all 4. If one is off from the other by 15psi or so i would pass on the car personally but if theyre all within 10 of eachother its probably ok.
2gb front bumper swap, with a 1g radiator that is missing a fan (isn't it?), no heat shield on the exhaust (cooked alternator?), downpipe is touching the IC pipe, and a gap I can see thru the side mount hole making me think there is no air dam... I bet that car runs hot.
...that said, it looks nice otherwise. If the interior is in good shape too, and you don't mind throwing money at it when stuff starts going downhill, I'd make an offer.... Probably not $3600, but it's hard to put a dollar amount on a modified car without knowing exactly what you're looking at and the implications of those modifications.
I can attest to them being a money pit though. I bought mine as an all stock, non running, bent valve special for $1200, which was probably too much, but it was cosmetically perfect, as far as dents and whatnot... The paint was fading, but in New Mexico, that is expected. $7500+ (I lost track after $7k) later and I am still fixing stuff, and adding crap, and paying out the ass to make it all work... But it sure is fun to drive.
____________________________
Frank
95 GSX fed by an 18g
I see the missing fan, and I'm sure there are other minor things. I will know for sure when I go look at it. I'm gonna pick it apart piece by piece and I'll make an offer. I paid 3500 for my eclipse right now. The 6G72 is far worse to work on than the 4g63t... I'll have money left over from when I sell my car as well so I expect some work. Adding heat shields and other smaller things like that won't be a problem. Like I said, my main concern is major internal engine issues. A passed compression test will make me feel very comfortable.
As far as money pits, every tuner knows their car is a money pit. That's what makes us tuners, ALWAYS working. The work never stops.
When I first got my 3G, I had very little knowlege of my car. Over time, doing things myself with days of research to do modifications and repairs myself the right way. I am going this week to look at it. If it's shifting clean, boosting fine, no leaks then I'll go for it. My first task would be a complete overhaul on fluids, gaskets, etc etc. Ever try changing the valve cover gaskets in a 6G72? I am expecting the work, as well as the pleasure of how these cars drive but in my opinion the 4cyl turbo is far easier to work with and easier to get parts for than the v6 crammed into my little coupe.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ofgofg
I have said this before. its a bad idea to buy somebody elses project car. If its a runner and is reliable,, then well, it probably still has problems. I wouldnt touch it except for dirt cheap. At 3600 this seller is trying to recoup some investment from all the fancy parts, and the swap. Its probably got 3600 in parts and labor alone. If you plan on daily driving it right away,, be very weary. If you want to toss 3600 at a project car,, then by all means do it!
Some simple logic: Its a nice looking car, with alot of work and parts on it. Why then is it for sale for 3600? If it runs as great as the spec sheet would suggest a well sorted car like that should run, then its worth more money. I would guess its an unsorted head ach and the owner is sick of dealing with it.
Just my .02. I only buy clean unmolested DSMs, been burnt and learned.
When have you ever seen a clean all stock 5-speed GSX.. I have looked online and in my area and have not seen a single one in YEARS. There are only 4 on ebay total and they're wayyyy too costly. I am very cautious when buying from someone but No reward without risk.
Last edited by realxclutch; 05-07-2012 at 12:02 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period
Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
Seems like everyone has covered all the basics. Hope the deal works out for you, just don't cut corners when modding like some people . As far as the 6g72, I couldn't agree more. I just picked up a vr4 and dread doing the 120k service in a couple of weeks
Seems like everyone has covered all the basics. Hope the deal works out for you, just don't cut corners when modding like some people . As far as the 6g72, I couldn't agree more. I just picked up a vr4 and dread doing the 120k service in a couple of weeks
Yeah no expense was spared on my 3G... I've only run Premium in it, and change the oil with quality oil (usually castrol GTX) as well as quality gaskets etc. I'll let you all know how it goes. Thanks for all the input and advice. Much friendlier than the guys at Club3g. Too much flaming and trolling and "SEARCH IT" bullcrap over there.
Btw I will be bringing his price down. Give me a little more breathing room.
let us know how it goes. deff about the rec bov not connected when he isn't running a gm maf kinda confused about that, hope it didn't lean it out at all, like everyone said compression test it but its your call sir
I had to pick between a couple nice 3g's and my busted GSX when I was shopping for my car... AWD wins, every time.
I also didn't want to have to do the amount of work necessary to make a 3g haul ass like a turbo 2g does... I'm lazy like that.
Best of luck! If it is in decent shape, it looks to have a lot of go fast stuff already...hopefully it is all in serviceable condition. Then all you have to do is tweak it into proper shape, and you have a fun car for a lot less work than most of us have to go through.
____________________________
Frank
95 GSX fed by an 18g
Check the body panels, each one should have a sticker with the vin printed on it. check to see if there's overspray from repairs. and don't forget to get a carfax...lol.
When have you ever seen a clean all stock 5-speed GSX.. I have looked online and in my area and have not seen a single one in YEARS. There are only 4 on ebay total and they're wayyyy too costly. I am very cautious when buying from someone but No reward without risk.
I was looking for one since I was sixteen, finally found one when I was 21...
But anyways, that car looks really nice. As long as the engine is in good condition and you fix the minor issues (rad fan, recirc BOV, heat shields, etc...) I think you will be just fine. IMO those are really cheap, not hard fixes as well and would only take an hour or so.
And 3600 isn't bad at all IMO. But around here a stock GSX can easily be sold for 5k-8k. So with those mods that price seems fine to me...
I would just check underneathe the car towards the back, don't let the things that like to hide not matter. Look for any rust towards the rear mounts( a lot of people overlook them because there covered with those plastic covers). Just make sure everything underneathe the car looks good. I mean 3600 for a Gsx, really isn't a bad price. As far as the fans go, just go with dual slim fans so you don't have to worry about any thing hitting.
Otherwise jump on that DSM and join the club D!!!!
I guess we are spoiled in the Colorado area, because stock unmolested DSms are advertised all the time. In 3 years I have had 2, for less $$ than what is being asked for a project, and with lower miles.
If the car is well sorted its a heck of a deal. But, if it has normal problems for that mileage and modified condition,, then well,, I wouldnt touch it. My opinion comes from the fact I prefer to DRIVE a dsm, not FIX one. Some guys like to tear into them as much or more than actually driving them. Thats cool too.
I guess we are spoiled in the Colorado area, because stock unmolested DSms are advertised all the time. In 3 years I have had 2, for less $$ than what is being asked for a project, and with lower miles.
Yes, you certainly are. Clean near stock DSMs are almost impossible to find here in the NJ area.
OP, as others have said make sure to check for rust as that will be one if the biggest issues with buying a car from NJ. I can see from the pictures that there are rust spots under the fuse box and also above the engine mount on the drivers side.
Ok guys, so I went and checked out the car today. So I'll give a synopsis of how things went.
I arrived at the meeting place and there it was, looking just as it did in the description. I greeted the seller, a 23 year old guy who's very down to earth and much the mitsubishi enthusiast himself. His friend was there also but he drove a Honda so no attention was paid to him. I started at the rear, checked each wheel well closely, The Springs/shocks are in good shape, standard grime on them from just driving around but no leaks and no noises. The brakes are good and there's not a spec of rust in the wheel wells. I went under the car and it was very good, The Apexi Turbo back doesn't have any rust at all, very clean. I went inside, The gauges are properly connected and clean. Boost controller works fine and the wideband works as well. The interior is in very good condition aside from the driver seat that has a small hole as well as standard cracking. No stains at all on the headliner or floor, I can tell he detailed it regularly, the driver seat is power too. Windows go up and down just fine, I reached for the hood latch and apparently it's missing the plastic cover piece that goes ontop that you pull so I had to pull the cable(not a deal breaker). Under the hood the JDM 4g63T sat there on good condition motor mounts. The Timing belt, Accessory belts, and pulleys look pretty new being as they look like they came off the shelf. The 16G sits up front there, clamp on the housing is new and there is not sign of oil leaking or stains at all. Front mount is very solid, no play at all. I took off the intake and checked the turbo, no shaft play at all. That recirc tube that a few of you noticed is in fact sealed off. The BoV is venting to atmosphere and sounds REALLY good. Oh and there is no rust at all in the engine bay. The car started right up with no problems or sound of struggle. Engine stayed at operating temperature and never went higher. Oh by the way, the downpipe is 2.5" away from the intercooler piping so it's not that close, I'll still throw a heat shield though. I sat inside and got ready to test drive it.
The 6 puck clutch and 7 lb flywheel is hard, I'm used to my feather light clutch in my 3G. There is a short throw shifter in and the car shifts through the gears without a problem. The only issue I had was that my hand kept hitting the center console when I'd shift into 3rd. I think the shifter is a bit TOO short. Again though, not a deal breaker. I started driving it nice and easy. Rode very well, no abnormal noises or creaking. Alignment is dead on. When we hit the highway I punched it and hit boost. I was immediately slammed into the seat, going from FWD to AWD turbo is an unexplainable feeling. It pulls hard and the external wastegate keeps boost at 8 lbs without any issue (It vents to atmosphere so screams). Letting off the gas the GReddy BoV sounded great. I've heard others but for some reason I prefer GReddy products. I ran the car pretty good through all gears and even running on boost for awhile the engine was still normal temp. There was a slight noise coming from the front of the car near the front left wheel but it sounds like the wheel bearing he talked about and makes a sound similar to mine so that's not an issue.
Overall the car is a dusty gem. It's in good condition and just needs the TLC I'm ready to give. Thanks for all of your help, please ask anymore questions you have as I am still doing research.
EDIT: Compression test went great.. ALL 4 cylinders are around 175 lbs and they only vary by 8 lbs or so each.
That sounds like a winner, but still, is it a Gm MAF with a translator so the BOV can vent? And if so, where is it? All I see is the regular 2g MAF, and unless I am missing some other tuning device, the BOV dumping to air normally will make the car stagger and sputter between shifts.
____________________________
Frank
95 GSX fed by an 18g
That sounds like a winner, but still, is it a Gm MAF with a translator so the BOV can vent? And if so, where is it? All I see is the regular 2g MAF, and unless I am missing some other tuning device, the BOV dumping to air normally will make the car stagger and sputter between shifts.
what exactly do you mean Gm MAF with a translator. What was on there is the stock MAF and on the intake (after the sensor) there is a connector for the BOV to recirculate but it's blocked off and the BoV just vents to atmosphere. This is taken from GReddy about the Type RS BoV (The Type-RS features optional discharge adapters for rerouting discharged air.) Which I assume means you can vent to atmosphere or recirc. Since the recirc tube is behind the sensor I don't think it affects anything aside from slightly wasting the air you're releasing, although the BOV opens off throttle so I don't see how it affects performance really.
And no the car doesn't sputter or anything. Runs fine.
DSMtuners is not affiliated with Diamond Star Motors. The Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, Mitsubishi Galant VR-4, and associated logos are trademarks of Diamond Star Motors, Mitsubishi Motors, and Chrysler Corporation.
. As far as the 6g72, I couldn't agree more. I just picked up a vr4 and dread doing the 120k service in a couple of weeks 
