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High IAT's

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wilderg88

10+ Year Contributor
70
1
Dec 14, 2008
Hialeah, Florida
so i have a 1g Laser with a 35R and a VRSF FMIC My iats while cruising are from 80-90 but on a full 3rd gear pull go up to 115-125 and a 3rd and 4rth gear they go up to 135-145 ive been told that is a little high and i have been trying everything to lower them. what confuses me the most is that my friend has a 2G with a VRSF FMIC with a 35r aswell and his iats are 90-95 on 3rd gear pulls and 95-105 on 3rd and 4rth pulls we also both have speed density from ecmlink and both have iat sensor located on the TB elbow. any thoughts or tips are welcome.
 
where is ## Sensor? Also having a tubular manifold has been proven to rais engine bay temps. Which would couse the pre cooler air charge and post to be higher than normal. and depending on where the sensor is will make a difference. I know I need to move mine to the intercooler itself when I get the chance. Mine is on the charge pipe by the BOV.
 
Yea, id heat wrap or coat the manifold and wrap the wastegate dump. Also a fiav delete and magnus heat barrier IM gasket will help with iat sensor heat soak and lower overall iat's slightly.

Should notice a drastic difference with those. Something else to consider is opening up your bumper and/or creating some duct work to get more airflow across the ic core.
 
Has any body ever wounder how the vrsf intercooler fins looked? I ask vrsf dude to send me a pic of the intercooler fins and he never did. I wounder if the fins are dense enough and if not i can see why the high IATs...and ofcourse heat soak is another possibility but the better the intercooler the air is harder to heat it back up in the engine compartment.

wilderg88 do you have a pic of your intercooler fins?
 
Also a fiav delete and magnus heat barrier IM gasket will help with iat sensor heat soak and lower overall iat's slightly.

The fiav delete can hardly be called a mod and I don't recommend it really unless you don't drive your car in the winter/cold climates. The heat barrier IM on the other hand definitely cooled my IM to the touch, even after back to back track passes. But still I'm not sure how much of a performance increase there is to be had there, I've never seen back to back dyno results or 1/4 passes with just an IM heat gasket changed.
 
The fiav delete can hardly be called a mod and I don't recommend it really unless you don't drive your car in the winter/cold climates.

Yea i hear ya there. I've dd'd carbureted vehicles in cold michigan winters so its no big deal imo. Plus the op lives in florida. But it does heat the hell out of the tb.

The heat barrier IM on the other hand definitely cooled my IM to the touch, even after back to back track passes. But still I'm not sure how much of a performance increase there is to be had there, I've never seen back to back dyno results or 1/4 passes with just an IM heat gasket changed.

Yea i had the same experience with them. Much cooler to the touch. That paired with the fiav delete should help tremendously with the iat sensor heat soak if the op is like the rest of us and put the sensor in the tb elbow. Even if there is no performance gain that alone makes it worth doing imo.

Iat enrichment has always scared me a bit haha.
 
Yeah getting the intercooler a little bit more air will help, also like others have said heat wrapping or ceramic coating whatever you can to get under hood temps down would also help.
 
so i have a 1g Laser with a 35R and a VRSF FMIC My iats while cruising are from 80-90 but on a full 3rd gear pull go up to 115-125 and a 3rd and 4rth gear they go up to 135-145 ive been told that is a little high and i have been trying everything to lower them. what confuses me the most is that my friend has a 2G with a VRSF FMIC with a 35r aswell and his iats are 90-95 on 3rd gear pulls and 95-105 on 3rd and 4rth pulls we also both have speed density from ecmlink and both have iat sensor located on the TB elbow. any thoughts or tips are welcome.

After doing a bit of research, I saw that the 2g core is larger than the 1g core for the VRSF intercooler. 24"x8"x3.5" for the 1g vs 28.5"x10"x3.5" for the 2g. (1g)672 inches/squared compared to (2g)997.5 inches squared. That alone can be the reason for the difference in air temps. 2g clearly has more surface area for air to cool.

We could use more data OP. How much air are you flowing? a 35r is a pretty larger turbos, when comparing turbos for our platform. You may be reaching the limits of your intercooler's core efficiency. Most "street" (around 28 inches long, 7 inches tall and 3-3.5 thick) intercooler for our cars, 1gs, are rated about 400 hp. I know the 35r can easily be pushed beyond 400 hp for our cars.

This is nothing against the VRSF intercooler, I have never owned one or used one in my build, but from what I can conclude a intercooler kit for our cars priced at less than 300 can not have a very efficient core, the cost parts and labor/production would be more. I know you save money with no Jpipe with the kit, but being a long time ETS intercooler customer, my cold side endtanks are still cold when do hard pulls. I can't tell you inlet temps at the TB because I am running a MAS system still, and the reading is before the turbo, so its hot engine air that is being measured.

I am not putting down this intercooler kit or VRSF. But it seem that this kit is aimed to the masses of our community, under 400 hp application. This kit works great for that, but you are also running a 35r which is not a common turbo ran (is it common turbo, but not for our platforms with all the bolt on applications, FP turbos and MHIs). I really think you might be pushing the limits of the intercooler

I would follow the advice above and heat wrap or ceramic coat that tubular manifold and dump tube.

DEI gold wrap also does wonders. I currently use it on cold side piping and turbo intake pipe. Before I used the wrap my SS upper intercooler piping was too hot to touch when i opened my hood....pretty much an oven for the air right after the intercooler.
 
I don't want to sound cliche, but check for boost leaks. Leaks will make your turbo work harder to maintain boost, and presumably make your air charge hotter.

Another good point was made in one of the posts above; I don't know anything about VRSF intercoolers, but I know cheap intercoolers don't tend to transfer heat well at all.

It has almost all to do with fin design (internal and external) and the materials used.
 
yea did boost leak test and fixed all leaks and logged again but same iats just more consistent. im flowing 49-50 cfm at 28-29psi on the 35r car made 483 awhp stock motor stock head stock Headgasket with arps and acl race bearings. stock Headgasket. im starting to think that its just my intercooler like stated above. and the reason why my friends iats are so much colder is because his vrsf is bigger and gets more air. he also has a 35r at 28PSi flowing 49-50 cfm. he should be making around the same power if not more he has kelford 272 cams and stock bottom end 7bolt wich have higher compression.

are my iats considered really high? are they dangeriously high? or will it be fine till i can afford an ets core.

im also going to try and cut up the bumper a bit 1g bumpers are so restrictive
 
I don't think you're going to see a noticeable difference cutting up your bumper honestly. Get a better core. Look into the ETS cores, specifically the race core. I think you will see a MUCH better gain going that route.
 
Meth kit on E85?

I would personally try all of the other ideas mentioned first. Much easier and cheaper. Tubular mani's are known for heating the engine bay.

Another small "mod" i think is worth mentioning, is the two small plates right behind the passenger side headlight. They are held in by 2 small 10mm bolts. It helps get some more airflow across the filter. I have no tests to prove it helps, but the fact that i had a bee stuck to my filter must mean there is a decent amount of air moving across it.

Maybe clean the the filter and add some duct work to push air up through the hole where the factory ic piping went.

Build a heat shield around the filter. Not a sealed box, but just something to help separate the filter area from the rest of the bay.

Kind of like weight loss, all the small things add up. It would be interesting to see the changes in iats if you decide to do any of the ideas mentioned in the thread.

In all honesty, your iats are not all that terrible. I've seen 190* with a 14b and heat soaked stock smic on a hot day. Are you having problems with knock?
 
no. no problem with knock i was just worried they were a little high compared to my friends. but my friend is also my tuner and he educated me a little on IAT's. but 91 stocker im deffinatly trying those things you mentioned. atm i have a pipe with a funnel in the end that goes from my front bumper to the stock SMIC pipe whole so that with like a heat box where my air filter is should help aswell.
 
maybe later along the lines but atm whats keeping me from making more power is fuel. and im pushing 483AWHP on a stock 6 bolt motor, head and headgasket so im not planning on going much higher with out building the motor
 
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