Engine INSTALL tips

NHerron · Feb 27, 2012

I did a few searches came across about 10 threads. Some got off track real bad, others ended quickly, and some just wasn't what I was looking for.

I'm hoping to get TIPS/TRICKS for easier installation, what to expect, etc. from the people who have done this more than a few times. I don't have experienced car friends so I'm on my own besides the muscle portion, haha.

It's a 1G engine going into 2G Eclipse GSX bay. I have 2G engine mounts, 2G transmission + transfer case.

When I originally pulled it, I labeled all wires/hoses/bolt holes. Also hung the a/c compressor near the firewall. I think it was a mistake but I disconnected the power steering pump and reservoir. The steering rack is pretty drained from bumping the steering wheel a few times installing gauges, etc.

I will be renting the cherry picker, hopefully they have the balancer bar, but how should I hook the chain on either sides? I can't fab up brackets since I don't have a welder here. Still not clear on if it's a good idea to drop it in as an engine/trans assembly or just the engine and then wrestle the trans in from the passenger side. Will I have problems with the power steering system working correctly since it's been somewhat drained for a few months.

Currently, the bay is pretty bare, no radiator and raised about 1FT with the help of jack-stands under the jacking points on either side right behind the front wheel wells.

As always, thanks. It's been a long 6 months and I'm ready to get this thing a-rollin

eclipse gsx · Feb 27, 2012

i did that already.you can install the engine and transmission together. just angle it and it will go in perfectly and about brackets, just get a chain and bolt it to a intake manifold screw and the other on a exhaust manifold screw, it dosent sound like a good idea but it worked for me hahaha.i think you need a different a/c compressor not sure. and switch a couple of mounts around.

NHerron · Feb 27, 2012

Yeah the conversion was already done, it's just the 6 bolt was needing a rebuild. I recently bought the car from someone with the engine being pretty worn, so now I'm going to be installing the engine again. The mounts, a/c compressor, CAS, etc. are all correct for everything to fit kosher.

I'll use all the tips I can get

eclipse gsx · Feb 27, 2012

o well that's all can say just angle it and lower it from one side and use some man power and its done. i pulled it of and so can you.

NHerron · Feb 27, 2012

Sweet man thanks. -I wont be doing the install until this coming weekend so feel free to drop anymore advice you think of

NHerron · Feb 29, 2012

C'mon I know more than one person has swapped in a new block HERE

let's hear some more tips & advice on the install, this will help someone else in the future!

**EX**Bolt on the intake/exhaust manifold before the drop, bolt on turbo, what accessories can go in before the drop, what portion of install will be the biggest PITA, etc.

ANYTHING!

SexyDSM95 · Feb 29, 2012

Tip: don't drop it

cloead · Feb 29, 2012

I always have pulled and installed the engine with the trans still attached

Also I have a load leveler so that helps a TON. After I used one for the first time I punched myself for not getting one sooner. Makes like so much easier.

With a load leveler you have to hook the chains up to 4 spots.. I lost my engine lift brackets a long time ago so I use:

1st chain.. 1 end goes to the farthest intake manifold stud to the passenger side of the car. other end I wrap around an exhaust manifold runner and secure with a nut and bolt (I have a cast mani.. up to you if you trust yours or not. If not you could use an exhaust manifold stud)

2nd chain gets attached to the driverside motor mount.. both ends go to it.

Maverick4g63 · Feb 29, 2012

Its really not a very complicated procedure. I install my intake and exhaust manifold before the drop. Those bottom intake bolts are much easier to get to outside the car. Your going to want to keep the tranny side of your motor/tranny package lower as its dropped into the bay. Once the tranny has cleared the passenger inner fender well, the entire assembly can be shifted passenger side and lowered into place. I usually bolt the driver side mount in first, and then I bolt in my tranny mount brackets. Its a tight fit if your angles arent optimal so be careful and take your time.

LandSpeed-DSM · Feb 29, 2012

You can do it fully assembled turbo, intake manifold, alternator and all if you have the radiator out. I've even done it with a remote oil cooler still installed though thats not recommended.

Take the transmission mount bracket off the trans and the corresponding mount off the frame and bring the motor and trans in on an angle with the trans below the motor and the timing side of the motor angled away from the firewall.

Bring the motor trans down as you slide the trans under the frame. Simultaneously drop the driver side mount into its receiving bracket on the frame.

livedsm4g63 · Feb 29, 2012

Make sure the rear motor mount isn't upside down when installing.

When putting the engine back in, get front mount bolt in first. Lower engine and get rear bolt in motor mount. Then do passenger side trans mount, then drivers side mount.

Use the intake manifold bolt that is closest to the battery (bottom row) when taking out engine.

Don't use exhaust manifold stud, use the motor mount located in front of the timing belt cover. ( there are two long studs sticking out)

Put it in and out with the transmission on.

apocalypsio · Feb 29, 2012

hey I just recently did just that , I don't know if your gonna use 1g head or 2g if you'r going 1g your gonna have to build a a harness fro your crank and cas sensor ### the 1g head only has cas (cam angle sensor). I don,t know If you've seen before but on magnus motorsports and RRE they have a pretty good detailed explanation of how things should go down almost a walkthrough( they also sell the harness)

livedsm4g63 · Feb 29, 2012

apocalypsio said:
hey I just recently did just that , I don't know if your gonna use 1g head or 2g if you'r going 1g your gonna have to build a a harness fro your crank and cas sensor ### the 1g head only has cas (cam angle sensor). I don,t know If you've seen before but on magnus motorsports and RRE they have a pretty good detailed explanation of how things should go down almost a walkthrough( they also sell the harness)

Or if he has ecmlink he can just invert the signal and call it a day.

Ghost_92TSi · Feb 29, 2012

I have done it 5 times with the tranny still it. Just let it go back in with an extreme angle and level it out by hand (Light enough). I always jack the bell housing up a little so that it angles up and makes it easy. Just if you changing the motor out, make sure that there are not any dowel pins stuck in the tranny. I had some that were in the new motor and there was one that stuck in the tranny from the old. I had to pull it out again to pull the pin out and continue. I always had fun pulling and putting the motor back in.

apocalypsio · Feb 29, 2012

Oh ok I haven't received ecmlink yet so I haven't used it yet but does that mean if I get ecm link the harness is no longer needed how would I get crank signal?

NHerron · Feb 29, 2012

You will need to still do the wiring job, after that, ecmlink will have a section on the software where you select what CAS system you have (1G) and outputs it to what the ECU expects. In your case, 89-94 CAS to 97-99 ECU.

My power steering system is disconnected and the rack has been sitting for a few months somewhat drained. Can I install engine, ps pump + reservoir and just fill it up and bleed the system?

importracr317 · Feb 29, 2012

Seems like most of the helpful tips have already been covered.

*Make sure you label all your electrical connections - take pictures too, it's helpful
* If using a load leveler, I used the intake and exhaust manifold studs as attachment points for the chains
* I bolted the trans engine mount in first and used the cherry picker in conjunction with some "elbow grease" to get the engine motor mount bolted in

That's about all I got. It's not too tough, just take your time. Good luck! :thumb:

NHerron · Mar 13, 2012

Thanks for the tips everyone and hey- I just want to update this thread of how everything went.

When I began the project, I had the head, cams, exhaust manifold, water pipe/lines, timing cover, a/c compressor idler pulley bracket, and trans hooked up. I reluctantly didn't have the starter mounted but that's okay I can still easily reach it as is. I'm glad I didn't have any of the engine mounts in so I didn't get caught up on anything during the engines descent. The way the assembly was secured turned out close to a perfect angle, although I still had to use my prybar for a little more of an added angle, but it still only took about 30 mins from the time the assembly was in the air to when I got all four mounts torqued down securely.

Anyway, once I had er' hoisted up we lowered down until the 2G mounts touched, then pushed the assembly as far to the passenger as possible. Used a long prybar to pull up on the timing belt side effectively making the trans slip up under the passenger frame rail and timing belt side able to be lowered to line up the drivers side mount. Once that looked good we got a floor jack under the trans end to lift it into its frame mount position. At that leveled point it was easy to secure both end mounts to frame rails and became a breeze from then on. Started working on the firewall/trans mount -had a little fun there lining up the bolt holes with a shorter prybar but even then I couldn't complain. After 3/4 mounts were done we fastened the mount on radiator side of transmission and moved onto the crossmember support. 4 bolts later the crossmember/trans mount lined up and could slip the long bolt on through and cinch it down.

Nothing really got in the way except the A/C compressor line that runs close to the 2G mount so I unbolted that and moved it. The job is much easier with bungee cords to move harnesses and hoses out the way and at least 2 people involved. One to man the hoist and one to check clearances, etc.

Here is how I had the chains/straps configuration. 1 chain end goes to the drivers side of intake manifold. Used the M8 stud stickin out to slip through a chain link and secured with a good quality nut. Opposite end of chain goes to the other M8 stud stickin out with the same method. I used our standard ratchet straps in a doubled up fashion looped around the 2 inside exhaust manifold runners. Used Wikipedia to learn how to tie a "Bowline" knot which tightens against itself under load. Lastly, to make sure no surfaces were marred from the chain and the straps couldn't be cut by sharp edges I used folded up cardboard.

1 end of chain to M8 stud: