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The Dreaded "Crank"/2g Head 1g block

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hypergenesis

15+ Year Contributor
886
1
Oct 21, 2010
Tracy, California
Well my 2g is about to crankwalk pretty soon so its time for a new engine and I was looking towards using a 2g head with a 1g shortblock for cost efficiency due to the fact I'm a college student and that was my DD.

Now from what I understand I need to expand the holes for the headstuds so the 1g block can match the 1g head but by how much? I read 1mm but am uncertain on the validity of it.

Also with a COMPLETE 6 bolt short block with another flywheel all I need to get my baby running?
Oh the harness with the sparkplugs flipped to match it.


Also for those who have run the 2g head on a 1g block could you post estimated costs for all of it??


I'm planning on atleast doing a stock bottom end rebuild for it at the least but I want opinions towards thus path with my mod list.

2.25" to 2.5" dp with a 3" Fatback
Fic850cc
Walbro 255lph HP rewired
Pro sport wideband and boost gauge
Dsmlink v3@
Magnecore sparkplug wires.
Fuel lab Afpr
Greddy type s bov
Greddy fmic

Now I was originally going for a e316g but I'm thinking going bigger now I've seen that one ft or fp6226 be a good street Turbo, that might not be the correct name sorry, for the current mods with some engine work?
 
its 11mm instead of 10mm. With a six bold swap you also have to make a harness for the Cam/Crank angle sensors. The 1g cars didn't have a crank positioning sensor. So you make a harness so the ecu get's a crank signal from the cam sensor. RRE sell's one. But they also show you how to make your own. I'd go with a fp68hta or a fp big 28. Both are 11 second capable. I know the fp68hta has bout the lag as a small 16g.
 
its 11mm instead of 10mm. With a six bold swap you also have to make a harness for the Cam/Crank angle sensors. The 1g cars didn't have a crank positioning sensor. So you make a harness so the ecu get's a crank signal from the cam sensor. RRE sell's one. But they also show you how to make your own. I'd go with a fp68hta or a fp big 28. Both are 11 second capable. I know the fp68hta has bout the lag as a small 16g.

He's not trying to break records, just have a solid car. Theres not point in spending an extra 300 for the 68hta when the E316g is just as capable on pump gas.
 
Have the crank checked out, that will let you know if you need a new one or not. If your staying under 400 HP having the 200k stocker ground .25mm (.010) under you will be fine.

7bolt heads use a 11mm head bolt, the 6 bolt heads are 12mm

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/341885-oil-port-mod-2-4g63t.html

you may also want to do the first oil mod.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

OMG thanks again you always got the right information.

What if I'm not staying under 400hp what should I do?
 
What are the end goals for your car? What is the budget you have to work with?

You can run stockish type internals to about 400 hp, much more than that and you need to make the move to forged internals.

Since you are a poor collage student, soot towards 400 hp. Study your books, not twist wrenches on a busted car.
After collage, when you are rollin in the cash.. build the beast of your dreams.
 
What are the end goals for your car? What is the budget you have to work with?

You can run stockish type internals to about 400 hp, much more than that and you need to make the move to forged internals.

Since you are a poor collage student, soot towards 400 hp. Study your books, not twist wrenches on a busted car.
After collage, when you are rollin in the cash.. build the beast of your dreams.

So very true wish it wasn't.

Well right now ill have about 1200 in a week I need to buy some junk commuter for around 1000 and I found a block crank with knock sensor 200k for 200 so ima have it machined when I can.


Lets just say no more than 600-750 for it all I figure machine work is expensive
 
Hit harbor freight and buy a cheap dial indacator and magnetic base, appox $30

Set it up, zero it out and have a buddy step on the clutch. and see just how much movement you get.

If you have the time and the tools, pop the balancer off and set the indacator on the crank snout.

As far as machine work.. that will all depend on what shape the core engine is in.
 
Hit harbor freight and buy a cheap dial indacator and magnetic base, appox $30

Set it up, zero it out and have a buddy step on the clutch. and see just how much movement you get.

If you have the time and the tools, pop the balancer off and set the indacator on the crank snout.

Damn I have to wait till the 5th then just spent a lot fixing other things.

Is there another problem that could cause identical problems?

Thanks
Armin s.
 
Hard to say with out pulling the engine.

Also you may have caught it soon enough where you can just overhaul your 7 bolt.

I would check it with the dial indacator, and if its just a little out of spec, drop the pan and check the thrust faces of the crank.

Do those two things and you will have a better idea of where you need to go.
 
Car dies and rpms drop when clutch is pushed in

Clacking metal over 3k rpms

If I shift from a gear to neutral without the clutch the car dosent die.

Harmonic balanced seems to have play

So yea...

All happened randomly on my way to school

Gotcha, was just making sure you werent one of those people that thinks it happens to every dsm.
 
Gotcha, was just making sure you werent one of those people that thinks it happens to every dsm.

No I understand everyone jumps to conclusions luckily of the year I have been here I have found the awesomeness of the search button and different tests you can do to check it out. The other reason I lean more towards it is the clacking is coming from around the area of the crank.


And sorry I didn't know overhaul = rebuild. It hella sucks cause I just replaced all the gaskets and headstuds.

Thanks again for everyone's input I need to wait a few days to do the testing that bogussvo recommended then ill update this thread with my findings on it.

Thanks

Armin
 
IT you decide to rebuild the engine that is in your car or any 2g block, make sure to replace the oil jets.

thank you for telling me this.

I plan on buying a 1g block and rebuilding it with either evo9 internals or a little better than oem internals. Then im going to have the 2g head ported for the headstud holes to fit the 1g block. Get the wiring harness and what not and run a 2g head on a 1g block. Sorry nooby question the oil jets sit in the block not the head correct?

Thanks Again
Armin
 
So very true wish it wasn't.

Well right now ill have about 1200 in a week I need to buy some junk commuter for around 1000 and I found a block crank with knock sensor 200k for 200 so ima have it machined when I can.


Lets just say no more than 600-750 for it all I figure machine work is expensive

That's not gonna be enough to do the whole job. A good machine shop will work the block, assemble it, and do the headwork for around 800 or so. Not including all the parts you need and any other work that needs to be done.

And yes the squirters are in the block. If you go with forged internals you don't need them, so you can use a non-turbo 1g block if you want.
 
That's not gonna be enough to do the whole job. A good machine shop will work the block, assemble it, and do the headwork for around 800 or so. Not including all the parts you need and any other work that needs to be done.

And yes the squirters are in the block. If you go with forged internals you don't need them, so you can use a non-turbo 1g block if you want.

Well I plan to rebuild the engine myself . All of it seems pretty straight forward unless I'm mistaken. Also I might get a crank that has 200k miles on it as well but its UN cut would it be worth cutting and reusing? And I just need 10 bolt holes bored out 1 mm for the 2g head to fit to it.

Also what would you guys reccomend a stock rebuild or going with after market internals. Man this is going to cost a pretty penny ..LOL
 
Set a goal and a budget. Thats the first thing you need to do.

Having a budget of $1200-$1500 will get you one engine (a little more than stock)

Having a budget of $2500-$3000 will get you a totaly diffrent engine build ( H-beam rods, forged pistons, cams ect)

Once you set your budget, we will have more of an idea of what path to put you for part selection.
 
go big or go home. i was in the same boat but only because I had to replace some bearings and figured i might as well go for broke and have a much better engine than just stock so i went evo 8 internals 3g lifters, cams etc. now im broke and im just waiting on my ACL bearings from stm before I can finish my baby up. do what you have the money for and dont go ebay :thumb:
 
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