did the turbo conversion but wtf

[kccombs]

Im done finally with my turbo conversion on my 92. I have a t3 t4 60 a/r turbo. Ebay 38mm waste gate with a 7 psi spring in it right now. It has 2 1/2 inch upper and lower pipings. With a hks sg bov and i need to switch it with a stock bov to get it recirculating. Ive go everything so far besides the bov and checking the timing. It idles pretty good but fluctuates up and down alittle bit. And when you just try to get on it when revving it up it seems like its flooding. Could all these be becuase just the timing and bov or something else. Thanks for the help

 

[volcomsnow245]

What kind of injectors do you have?

 

[Tyeler18]

By "timing" do you mean mechanical or electrical timing?

 

[GSXSixteenG]

Timing should be the first thing you check, not last. Do you have a wideband? Have you done a boost leak test? What do the plugs look like?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I agree, before revving anything, set the timing, set the fuel pressure (if AFPR), and set the idle. Ideally do a boost leak test before even starting it.

What fuel pump, injectors, and regulator (stock turbo, stock N/T, AFPR) are you using. Stock turbo ECU with no chip, piggyback, or tuner?

Was the block rebuilt? Are you using turbo pistons or n/t pistons? Don't rush this, especially if work was done to the block and you need to break the motor in.

 

[empie1]

Lol noyour BOV has nothing to do with idle. Sounds like a prob with the isc or fiav.

 

[kccombs]

Timing should be the first thing you check, not last. Do you have a wideband? Have you done a boost leak test? What do the plugs look like?

Plugs look good. There are brand new ngks i have the turbo ecu dont beleave it was chiped at all. Turbo injectors so 450s the engine was completely rebuild and bored 50 over but now has 20,000 miles on it. Turbo fpr. Turbo fpr selenoid.

Also how do i do a boost leak test?

And what is a fiav?

I dont have a wide band yet.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Plugs look good. There are brand new ngks i have the turbo ecu dont beleave it was chiped at all. Turbo injectors so 450s the engine was completely rebuild and bored 50 over but now has 20,000 miles on it. Turbo fpr. Turbo fpr selenoid.

Also how do i do a boost leak test?

And what is a fiat?

I dont have a wide band yet.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/169435-boost-leak-test-how-boostpro-net-tester.html

The Fast Idle Air Valve (FIAV) is what causes the car to idle fast on cold starts. This helps the car warm up faster. To do this the FIAV allows more air into the throttle body (TB) until the coolant temp reaches 122F.

 

[kccombs]

Ok if the fiav is the little screw that screws into the front of the tb. Is that what it is? And if so i read a tread on how to unplug a plug behind the battary and ground it to the battary. Then the plug beside the fuse box and put aligator clips on it to a ground and start the car and adjust the fiav to the proper idleing rpms which should be 750 rpms

But if that is what the fiav is i took the 1 out of me nt tb and put it in the turbo tb.

 

[Bud92gsx]

You have 450's so i'm guessing the"turbo" fpr was off a manual 1g?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Ok if the fiav is the little screw that screws into the front of the tb. Is that what it is? And if so i read a tread on how to unplug a plug behind the battary and ground it to the battary. Then the plug beside the fuse box and put aligator clips on it to a ground and start the car and adjust the fiav to the proper idleing rpms which should be 750 rpms

But if that is what the fiav is i took the 1 out of me nt tb and put it in the turbo tb.

That is the BISS screw, used to adjust the ISC. 1G BISS Adjustment

The FIAV is the lower portion of the throttle body. It has the two coolant lines going to it.

 

[kccombs]

You have 450's so i'm guessing the"turbo" fpr was off a manual 1g?

Yes i have the fpr from a manual turbo car.

That is the BISS screw, used to adjust the ISC. 1G BISS Adjustment

The FIAV is the lower portion of the throttle body. It has the two coolant lines going to it.

Ok so do i need to put a block off plate and rempve the fiav

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Ok so do i need to put a block off plate and rempve the fiav

Why do you want to remove it? I removed my FIAV and ISC a few years ago and didn't like it at all. I ended up reinstalling it. A working system is way better then a removed system.

Your idle issue should be the least of your worries right now. Check and set the other stuff mentioned first, then once everything is good, you can play with your idle. I would start by checking the ISC to make sure that is is working. Here are two videos which make it very easy to test your ISC (Do both).

YouTube - ‪DSM ISC motor testing & Replacement‬‏

YouTube - ‪DSM ISC‬‏

 

[kccombs]

Why do you want to remove it? I removed my FIAV and ISC a few years ago and didn't like it at all. I ended up reinstalling it. A working system is way better then a removed system.

Your idle issue should be the least of your worries right now. Check and set the other stuff mentioned first, then once everything is good, you can play with your idle. I would start by checking the ISC to make sure that is is working. Here are two videos which make it very easy to test your ISC (Do both).

YouTube - ‪DSM ISC motor testing & Replacement‬‏

YouTube - ‪DSM ISC‬‏

O. Its not the fact that i want to remove it. I just know you can. And im getting my timing light tomarrow to check the timing to make sure it is 5 degrees btdc. And i will check the isc.

 

[bastarddsm]

Did you wire in the injector resistor pack? Do you have a turbo maf on it with it wired for the iat sensor? Did get any codes out of it?

 

[kccombs]

Did you wire in the injector resistor pack? Do you have a turbo maf on it with it wired for the iat sensor? Did get any codes out of it?

Yep have the resister pack wired up and the maf wired in to the ecu and i noticed when i 1st started it it did have a check engine light cum up. But would have thuaght it was only cuase the ecu needed to learn what was going on.

 

[redyute1]

Are you using a turbo mass air flow sensor?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Are you using a turbo mass air flow sensor?

He just answered that. Yes.

 

[redyute1]

He just answered that. Yes.

Oh i must have overlooked

 

[Kid4g63]

You should do a boost leak test.


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=47.159359,-122.466917

 

[kccombs]

Yes im goin to do a boost leak test just need to get a test setup. And how do i make sure the intake valves are closed so the air wont get by the intake valves.

And when i wired in my knock and fpr selenoid, 1 of each wires went to the ecu and i wired those in. And the other wire from both went to a ground. I noticed when it was running you could hear the static threw the sterio and i was always told that, that ment a bad ground somewhere. My question is that is it ok that i just put a connector on each of the grounds and put a 1/4 in sheet metal screw in the firewall, is that good for them?

 

[canada4g63]

What ECU you running?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

What ECU you running?

i have the turbo ecu

Yes im goin to do a boost leak test just need to get a test setup. And how do i make sure the intake valves are closed so the air wont get by the intake valves.

And when i wired in my knock and fpr selenoid, 1 of each wires went to the ecu and i wired those in. And the other wire from both went to a ground. I noticed when it was running you could hear the static threw the sterio and i was always told that, that ment a bad ground somewhere. My question is that is it ok that i just put a connector on each of the grounds and put a 1/4 in sheet metal screw in the firewall, is that good for them?

Put your cams up at TDC first, rotate them 6 teeth marks (clockwise), all valves should be closed. Remember one will be on the actual tooth and the other came gear the mark will be between the teeth.

I believe a chassis ground should be fine. It should be touching bare metal for best results. Did you plug in the noise condenser by the battery? Also the knock sensor is a shielded wire from the factory. It looks like this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/336171-resolved-knock-sensor-wiring-harness-q-pics-wiring-sensor-expert-needed.html

 

[kccombs]

I believe a chassis ground should be fine. It should be touching bare metal for best results. Did you plug in the noise condenser by the battery? Also the knock sensor is a shielded wire from the factory. It looks like this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/336171-resolved-knock-sensor-wiring-harness-q-pics-wiring-sensor-expert-needed.html

I beleive i pluged everything in. But what is the noise condensor?

And as for my know sensor i cut off the pigtail and wire 1wire to the ecu and the other wire to ground.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I beleive i pluged everything in. But what is the noise condensor?

And as for my know sensor i cut off the pigtail and wire 1wire to the ecu and the other wire to ground.

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The noise condensor is shown in the bottom left hand corner of this picture.

Yes, if unplugged the engine will still run normally but you may get the radio noise (depending on how good the radio filters it out both in it's power and through it's antenna) or noise in other sensitive equipment. It's case mounting must be clamped to bare metal since that is the negative. It's positive lead needs to be connected as close as possible to the coil's primary to be effective. A bad capacitor will either be blown out due to an internal short or it lost it's capacitance. Either way it will act as if it's not there. A blown out due to internal short one happens so fast that it usually won't even blow a fuse. It then instantly is not a short anymore (nor has capacitance).

Technically, the capacitor is used to improve the coil's primary pulse. It sharpens (ie. reduces) the edge's rise/fall time, and reduces both pulse overshoot/undershoot and ringing. That is, however, something that will be unnoticable to the human (only an oscilloscope would show it) except as audio harmonics which show up as noise in the radio.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/307519-shielded-wire-knock-sensor.html