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Broken Dsm CEL

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volcomsnow245

10+ Year Contributor
492
0
May 4, 2011
chicago, Illinois
Hey guys I'm going to try and pull the cel code today with a pulse buzzer but I figured I would see if anyone knew what it was. So yesterday i was driving and came home parked every things fine. Then I go back out as I'm driving the car wants to die out it junks forward so I push in the clutch and it idles at 450-500 so I turn the car off and coast to a side street then I go to start it And it takes a really long time to crank I finally get it but I had to keep revving it up so it would run but when I hit the gas nothing I have to continuously pump the gas to keep it running. Also lately it's been taking a while to crank over and it's getting colder out. Anyone have any ideas thanks
 
+1 for the crank position sensor.

-1 for this : Check your crank for end-play. -cough-

Check everything else that's basic - Plugs, wires, fuel, maf, etc. You want to start with the easiest and work your way up to the more difficult.
 
Yea the maf and plugs are good I'm thinking it could be that sensor I'll search up how to check that sensor. Thanks for the help so far guys.
 
+1 for the crank position sensor.

-1 for this : Check your crank for end-play. -cough-

Check everything else that's basic - Plugs, wires, fuel, maf, etc. You want to start with the easiest and work your way up to the more difficult.

it should be fine i just had the engine rebuilt it only has 600 miles on it and it was doing great *knock on wood*
 
I thought 1gs dont have a Crankshaft position sensor.

That data is taken from the Cam Angle Sensor.

It's early. Shut up. I've had 4 hours of sleep and hyped up on stackers. 1g, 2g, close enough.

:p

But yes, considering that we're talking about a 1g here, disregard what was said about the crank position sensor. Start checking the CAS. If you have a spare, swap it out. Also check your knock sensor. If it's loose/bad it can read ridiculous amounts of knock and cause the car to act funny/powerless with any throttle depending on how bad it is. This is easy to check - Just reach under your intake manifold and touch it. See if it's loose or if there is any goop collected on the back.

We'll go from there once you check everything mentioned so far.
 
It's early. Shut up. I've had 4 hours of sleep and hyped up on stackers. 1g, 2g, close enough.

:p

But yes, considering that we're talking about a 1g here, disregard what was said about the crank position sensor. Start checking the CAS. If you have a spare, swap it out. Also check your knock sensor. If it's loose/bad it can read ridiculous amounts of knock and cause the car to act funny/powerless with any throttle depending on how bad it is. This is easy to check - Just reach under your intake manifold and touch it. See if it's loose or if there is any goop collected on the back.

We'll go from there once you check everything mentioned so far.


No worries we have all been there, thats why I got you back.

If its the knock sensor:
Bad:
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good:
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Well I believe I'm getting the code for knock sensor so I'm going to check that out.
 
No worries we have all been there, thats why I got you back.

If its the knock sensor:
Bad:
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good:
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I have no idea what you're talking about. LOL

Well I believe I'm getting the code for knock sensor so I'm going to check that out.

Good deal. Let us know how that turns out. the pictures provided above are 100% valid in your current situation if you're getting a code for a bad knock sensor. Check for the melted goo on the back, a bad connection, the sensor being loose (they have to be juuust perfect as far as snugness goes) or a deteriorated wire.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well I checked the codes one more time I think I'm getting one for the crank position sensor I'm not sure 100% are these hard to swap out and how much are they?

Also I tried testing the CPA with a dmm and didn't get anything.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is on your 1G?
...I keep thinking Crank Position.

Replace the CAS or simply check the plug/wires.
 
Alright I'll give it a try.

If there s not fuel coming out of my return line off the fuel rail does that mean my fpr is bad? I have fuel getting to it just not any pressure to run the car.
 
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