How to minimize wheelhop????

[MadrussianSVT]

So I went to the track for the first time and wheel hop is a bi***! First gear it hops like a bunny, still hops in second initialy. My best 60 foot was like 2.4 and it was easining it off the line, if I drop the clutch at around 3-4k it would hook some what and then just hop down the track. So with 256 fwhp my best was 14.0 at 102mph.....sucks cause that with 50 trim turbo and 19 psi..... need to redo some of the intake plumbing posibly. But anyway, how to minimize wheel hop? I do have yonaka coil overs, my motor mounts were completley shot so I replaced driver with prothane piece and for the front I installed those inserts, that started to come out, the back one and passenger are still stock and shot motor mounts that I will replace soon. I think side prothane inserts are good, but front and rear inserts dont do much, so I want to find solid alum inserts or just weld some steel plates. what alse can I do?

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

Don't dump the clutch.

 

[South Dakota]

I remember RRE's suspension build up from years ago stating that you can disconnect the sway bar ends. Also run lower tire pressure so that they don't bounce as much. Just remember to bring along something to refill the tires after you're done.

 

[jtmcinder]

Flip the driver's side compression-arm bushing, if you haven't already.

Lose the Yonaka coilovers; get some shocks that can actually control the front end of the car.

Consider swapping every front-end suspension bushing to something stiffer, if not spherical.

Continue to feather the clutch on every launch.

 

[918_gsx]

Motor mounts

 

[95TalonOwner]

With shot motor mounts, that is definitely what's contributing the most to your problem.

 

[dsm03]

Better Tires

Suspension

Run Tires down to 20psi

Like stated, don't dump the clutch at high rpm's.

Practice Launches

Polyurethane Motor Mounts if need replacements

 

[dpun3]

decrease your tire pressure

 

[Blue Talon Boy]

Most has been stated, tire pressure, maybe consider a pair of slicks for hook. Stiffen the front end as much as possible to keep the tires planted on the ground. Practice launch, and slip the clutch if on street tires don't just sidestep. Otherwise start looking for an AWD.

Ps, this cannot be stated enough, REPLACE ALL THE MOTOR MOUNTS WITH POLYURETHANE!!

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

 

[TSi Kid]

Do an awd swap

 

[MadrussianSVT]

Most has been stated, tire pressure, maybe consider a pair of slicks for hook. Stiffen the front end as much as possible to keep the tires planted on the ground. Practice launch, and slip the clutch if on street tires don't just sidestep. Otherwise start looking for an AWD.

Ps, this cannot be stated enough, REPLACE ALL THE MOTOR MOUNTS WITH POLYURETHANE!!

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

Is prothane better or worth then polyurethane?

 

[95AWDTerror]

Prothane is a company name. Its still a urethane based resin.

OH, and shot motor mount will surely add to the wheel hop. Tighten up the drivetrain with new mounts.

 

[DSMunknown]

Front and rear solid motor mounts.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/289588-solid-front-rear-aluminum-motor-mounts.html

 

[Blue Talon Boy]

Polyurethane is just the material that it is made of. Prothane is a brand name.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

 

[Dsmkauai]

Why would he need to loose the yonaka coilovers. I run them and am about to have my gst in the 12's and have no issues with wheel hop or my car squatting. Change those motor mounts make them solid, lower tire pressure in the front and raise it in the back. Adjust the rear coilovers preload more to help keep weight over front tires. Make sure all your bushings are good and not dried up. I'll just say yonaka makes a awsome coilover and the price is great to. Another thing don't mash the gas in first feather the throttle till you know your hooking up good, which is usually half way through second gear. And if you ever really wanna hook that car up slicks are the way to go.

 

[danteanne]

Im not gunna quote every one here but DSMKAUAI has got it right Yonakas are good for this no need to change them. Unless you blew them if you see oil all over your coils they are done. and you will need to get a new set. Other ways you can check if they are still good, bounce the front of you car if it bounces a lot then thats no good either stiffen them up if you can or toss um, and the other way to tell pull them out take the spring off push the shock poll down and it should come up on its own if it doesn't throw them out and get new one. If your lucky Yonaka might rebuild them like Tien does.

Street tire pressure will not help you at all in this. It will only assist in wheel hop. One it starts the rebound effect on the spring. And two that generaly points at a worn shock..

Control arm mounts: The stock rubbers really like to flex ALOT when under load. This requires no thought. Change them out for polyurethane.

Motor mounts can contribute to wheel hope. There are a few way to address this. SOLID motor mounts suck... Unless your a trailer queen and don't drive on the streets... Your car will fall apart from the vibrations... Nuts and bolts will undo them selfs, every thing will need to be lock tightened. Polyurethane IS what you want. You already are most of the way on the right track. Cut the rubber out of the passenger M.M. and put the urethane one in. Now the inserts for the front and rear, I have done this MYSELF and let me tell you it works like a dream. Go to Napa or any shop that might carry it and get this stuff called Window Weld or Fast urethane, its polyurethane in a tube! Take your front and rear motor mounts and inserts, clean them well. Fill the stock motor mounts with window weld and push in the inserts. Clean it up with a flat edge and let sit for a day. Use gloves its really messy. The rear MM can get dropped right in the front will need big washers (not sure where to get them got mine from a friend damkauai ) to hold it all in place and not rip apart. Kinda like u said its coming out thats because your not using the washers..

The things stated above are the major cause of wheel hop... Still wheel hoping? Thats Crazy! Now you can Fab. up traction bars. They connect from lower control arms to the lower radiator support area, properly brace it with the right geometry to match suspension travel. Its not easy and I've never done it on a DSM. i have no idea if there are kits for this or not. But that will halt wheel hop.

Im sure that I'm beating a dead horse here. Wheel hop has been around prob. longer then I've been alive but I'm tired of seeing half a**ed comments.

And I'm sure you are aware of the fact that there is technique to launching look it up learn it love it.

 

[richard5309]

Another thing you could get are torque dampners. I've seen them used on all kinds of FWD cars even if they already have solid or poly mounts.

 

[bmoha7321]

Solid cnc machined aluminum front subframe bushings. DSMTuners member Black_gst sells them. He also makes solid polyurethane front and rear rollstop motor mounts. Swap out your stock control arm bushings to polyurethane. At the very least make sure all the stock suspension bushings are in good intact and in good shape. Might be a good time to make sure your car has had the control arm recall done on it.

 

[Tyeler18]

Another thing you could get are torque dampners. I've seen them used on all kinds of FWD cars even if they already have solid or poly mounts.

Only problem is no one sells them for a 2g.

I have the ingalls stiffy torque damper on my 3g, prothane motor mounts, tien coilovers, etc and I can launch at 5k without any hop. Haven't had any hop during autox turning hard into corners either.

 

[bertrenolds]

Get a bushing kit and motor mounts and don't get the insert motor mounts for the front get a solid mount for the front.

 

[richard5309]

Only problem is no one sells them for a 2g.

I have the ingalls stiffy torque damper on my 3g, prothane motor mounts, tien coilovers, etc and I can launch at 5k without any hop. Haven't had any hop during autox turning hard into corners either.

Custom fab dude...make them fit.

 

[bertrenolds]

It's to bad equal length half shafts won't work on a 2g.

 

[Blue Talon Boy]

Op, unless you want a trailer queen, I wouldn't even think about solid mounts. They will rattle the teeth out of your head just driving to the corner gas station. It might be the best way to stop wheel hop, but don't you want to be able to dd this car too?

 

[nightmares GS-T]

OP, try the solid front and rear roll stops and poly sides, don't dump the clutch, and perform the equal half shafts mod that will work on our " inferior uncool" 2gs.

 

[MadrussianSVT]

OP, try the solid front and rear roll stops and poly sides, don't dump the clutch, and perform the equal half shafts mod that will work on our " inferior uncool" 2gs.

Did the side prothane inserts, pass side was pita but it's done now, also those inserts that I put in front roll stop mount came out . So I took two bolts, drill two holes through both of them and bolted them together! then tightened them to the point that head of the bolt and nut on the other side are flush with the inside of the mount itself, then grinder off remaining of the bolt ( so it will fit inside that cross member). Final result looked like Frankenstein spared with jelly fish but it works! Engine doesn't move under load! Every time I take off just normally driving I chirp the tires, I guess I need to get used to new motor mount bushings.