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gsxcody

10+ Year Contributor
88
1
May 16, 2010
Snohomish, Washington
Hello, so Im almost done with my 6 bolt swap in my 2g gsx. And so long as its running great stock, I'm gonna up the ante on my turbo setup. I was going to run this turbonetics t3 60 trim that I have. But now I think it's gonna spool too slowly. My goal is to make 350ish hp and torque with really quick spool. I have a t3 manifold, hks 40mm wastegate, and a 3in o2 housing with the wg recirculation. I was gonna use it with the turbonetics but I still wanna make us of it with the new turbo I'll be buying.This means I'll need a t3, or a t3/t4 turbo. I have stock internals with headstuds. Act 2100, act lightweight fly, k&n intake, 3 inch exhaust, 3 inch dp, unorthadox crank pulley, front mount intercooler with 2.5 in piping, polyurethane mount inserts, b&m oil cooler, gages, greddy turbo timer, ngk plugs/wires, and a flashable black box ecu to tune with. It will be professionally tuned by Pina Motorsports of kent, WA. I will by injectors and the 255 fuel pump once I buy my turbo. But before it's tuned. I just your guys help picking out the most efficient turbo for my setup where I'll have good low end power to play with, but still decent sized, but that's not gonna be overkill. I was told to look ino a Garrett gt30r ball bearing. What do u guys think?

Ps: sorry about the lengthliness of this post lo
and thanks for reading
 
If you are trying to stick with the T3 you could always run an hx35 but that could be overkill. I think a 20g would be a good turbo for your goals but if you are stuck on T3 then never mind.
 
I think that turbo would be pretty good if your that worried about the sacrifice down low then go with the 18 or 20g. But if you push the evo 3 16 g to the limits you can make them numbers but you have to change your manifold.
 
Hello, so Im almost done with my 6 bolt swap in my 2g gsx. And so long as its running great stock, I'm gonna up the ante on my turbo setup. I was going to run this turbonetics t3 60 trim that I have. But now I think it's gonna spool too slowly. My goal is to make 350ish hp and torque with really quick spool. I have a t3 manifold, hks 40mm wastegate, and a 3in o2 housing with the wg recirculation. I was gonna use it with the turbonetics but I still wanna make us of it with the new turbo I'll be buying.This means I'll need a t3, or a t3/t4 turbo. I have stock internals with headstuds. Act 2100, act lightweight fly, k&n intake, 3 inch exhaust, 3 inch dp, unorthadox crank pulley, front mount intercooler with 2.5 in piping, polyurethane mount inserts, b&m oil cooler, gages, greddy turbo timer, ngk plugs/wires, and a flashable black box ecu to tune with. It will be professionally tuned by Pina Motorsports of kent, WA. I will by injectors and the 255 fuel pump once I buy my turbo. But before it's tuned. I just your guys help picking out the most efficient turbo for my setup where I'll have good low end power to play with, but still decent sized, but that's not gonna be overkill. I was told to look ino a Garrett gt30r ball bearing. What do u guys think?

Ps: sorry about the lengthliness of this post lo
and thanks for reading


Get a MHI 20G from Forced Performance. $539.

Interested in an ACT lightweight flywheel to accompany your clutch?
 
TD05H 20G for sure. MHI reliability in a direct-fit turbo that uses all of the OEM 1G water lines and oil lines.

As suggested above, pick up a 20G from FP and find a good used 7cm turbine housing...even if you have to buy a blown 16G to get it. You'll have to do a little custom-fabbing on the wastegate actuator, but it will be worth it.
 
How would a Garrett gt30r bb preform compare to a 20g?

And I appreciate the offer but I already got one
 
How would a Garrett gt30r bb preform compare to a 20g?
3071R = similar.
3076R = superior, to around 8 lb/min additional.

The 30R also carries about an $800+ heavier price tag over the 20G, and when it fails it cannot be rebuilt. If you're lucky, your blown 30R may qualify for Garrett's ball-bearing exchange in which they use your unit as a core, but if it's junk you'll need a new CHRA at a price of around $800.

A 20G can be rebuilt all day long for under $200. In fact, the most expensive 20G rebuild I've ever done cost my customer $350 and replaced the turbine wheel, compressor wheel, all of the internals, and a used center housing. Basically he got a brand new turbo for $350.
 
So Im kinda stuck between the 20g and the gt3076r. I feel like I will get better spool up time on the Garrett
 
So Im kinda stuck between the 20g and the gt3076r. I feel like I will get better spool up time on the Garrett
Spool may be similar- the 3076R may actually be a little later or torque may feel more "linear" than the 20G due to the larger turbine wheel size.

Keep in mind you cannot buy an actual Garrett GT3076R with a DSM bolt-on turbine housing except from builders like FP and PTE. You're also going to be pressed to find a 3076 in an internal gate platform as well, so count in the cost of going external off the o2 housing or manifold.

It would take a nearly $2000 investment to go with a 30R by the time you buy the turbo, o2 housing (or manifold), wastegate, gaskets, hardware, oil lines, etc. The 20G sounds better and better, doesn't it?
 
I have the BR 20G and have full boost by 3600rpm and she pulls like a freight train.

Also, I am guessing with the FP MHI 20G with the stock t3 housing it comes with, you could just buy a t3 to MHI adapter for $40...someone correct me if that is wrong.
 
I have the BR 20G and have full boost by 3600rpm and she pulls like a freight train.
Just a standard TD05H 20G with a 20* clip on the turbine.
Also, I am guessing with the FP MHI 20G with the stock t3 housing it comes with, you could just buy a t3 to MHI adapter for $40...someone correct me if that is wrong.
Then you're left with no o2 housing, as well as two possible leak spots at the manifold instead of one. For less than what you'd have in the adapter and the o2 housing, you could buy a good used 7cm housing.

I do not approve of the adapters, although some have had luck with them.
 
Actually- after rereading the original post, it seems the poster already has the T3 manifold and external gate.

With that info you can use a FP TD05H 20G right out of the box and just weld the flapper shut then fab your own o2 housing, or you can pick any T3-flanged 3076R for around $800 more. Both are great turbos- I'd lean more toward the 20G.
 
Just a standard TD05H 20G with a 20* clip on the turbine.

Then you're left with no o2 housing, as well as two possible leak spots at the manifold instead of one. For less than what you'd have in the adapter and the o2 housing, you could buy a good used 7cm housing.

I do not approve of the adapters, although some have had luck with them.

I appreciate the advice on the adapters. I just had the 20G rebuilt due to slight shaft play ($70 kit, not rebalanced or anything) and if it turns out down the rd I still have issues, I would probably consider the FP 20G. The issues is, as stated above, it's a t3 hotside but I have a 2G exhaust manifold, so I would either have to spend more than I want to on a t3 manifold, or use an adapter, which is why I asked about them above.

While we are talking about this turbo, does anyone here have any experience running the MHI 20G with the stock internal wastegate?
 
I have a turbonetics and it's actually probably one of the quickest spooling turbos i've ever had. Personally, it's by FAR my favorite, however, I never used one on my 2g, only 1g.
 
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