TSi Kid
Probationary Member
- 1,511
- 12
- May 31, 2009
-
Avondale,
Arizona
I've heard different things from some of my local friends but is coolent really necessary, or is running oil alone good enough?
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
and
about ALL OVER the internet. 
I'm not sure lazy is the appropriate word to use here, sometimes the setup just won't allow it. In my case I was running a small 16g with a BEP turbine housing on it. The BEP housing I had didn't attach to the CHRA with a v-band or a c-clip, it used bolts and spacers. The bolts and spacers holding it to the CHRA were in the EXACT same location of the coolant line banjo fittings so whats a guy supposed to do? I believe I actually worked harder than most trying to get the coolant lines to work with that housing but to no avail!I use coolant and oil to my turbo because thats what it was designed to do and I'm not lazy.

It's not a concern of being lazy or how the turbo was designed to be used. The water is in place to act as a heat sink to prevent rapid cooldown and the problems it causes like oil coking on bearings and seals, as well as turbine blade distortion on gasoline-powered turbo cars that are driven by the uneducated public.I use coolant and oil to my turbo because thats what it was designed to do and I'm not lazy.
Yes it does, +1000 to that and an AMEN! Haha. I did three 16g swaps in one day while I was at the track from a small, to a big, to a Evo III 16g just to see if they made a difference. Not having coolant lines definitely made it a quick swap, I definitely left that day with burn marks on the forearms though.NOT running coolant allows the turbo to be swapped in 15 minutes instead of an hour, especially on MHI turbos which use a v-band to hold the center housing to the turbine housing.

haha i've done that before but instead of seeing if they made a difference it was to see if they were goodYes it does, +1000 to that and an AMEN! Haha. I did three 16g swaps in one day while I was at the track from a small, to a big, to a Evo III 16g just to see if they made a difference. Not having coolant lines definitely made it a quick swap, I definitely left that day with burn marks on the forearms though.
non-water cooled CHRA have no place on a high performance engine unless you only run down the strip.
And what reasoning is there behind this statement?
Turbochargers have been around for a long time and do you really think that they were water cooled that whole time? Water cooling is relativly new and most diesel applications are not water cooled either.
Not to mention, horsepower wouldn't affect the turbo, most of us DSMers aren't even pushing the limits of the diesel turbos. Holset turbos have been pushed to above 60psi and they are not water cooled. (Yes diesel is colder than gas) You still need a lot of exhaust which will still heat up greatly.
There is NO need for water cooling on any turbo at all. Water cooling is mainly used for factory turbos where the drivers would shut off the car hot to help prevent coking. Let the car idle or drive out of boost for the last 5 min of your drive and you'll be fine regardless of how hard you ran whether your water cooled or not.
If you have provisions for cooling why not use them but it's not mandatory.
Another thing is I bought a turbochared car for a reason, if I had to baby it for the last five minutes of every drive or sit and wait for it to cool I would go out of my mind.
Why not just get a civic that I can get on the whole way and still have better fuel economy? 
Then you my friend would be a prime example for a turbo timer user but my logic isn't flawed in that statement. It's true in the fact that if you just drive out of boost for a little before you shut off then there is no need to sit and let it cool down.Your logic is very flawed. For one thing the way I drive my GSX most of my driving is within five minutes of where I am.Another thing is I bought a turbochared car for a reason, if I had to baby it for the last five minutes of every drive or sit and wait for it to cool I would go out of my mind.
Why not just get a civic that I can get on the whole way and still have better fuel economy?
So aside from detergents and a higher weight, what's the difference between diesel oil and gasoline oil WTF I personally run Rotella 15w-40 which stated diesel AND turbocharged vehicles.The oil they use in diesel engines is different from gasoline engines. Just because they used to design turbo's to only be oil cooled it doesn't mean that it is a good idea to eliminate liquid cooling from one that is designed to be cooled that way and try to rely on the oil system that was not designed for that task.

The advantage of liquid cooling is the turbo stays cooler while the engine is running and it continues to cool after the engine is shut down when the turbo is heat soaking. That is why it is a good idea to use it if the turbo was designed to work that way.

There is NO need for water cooling on any turbo at all. Water cooling is mainly used for factory turbos where the drivers would shut off the car hot to help prevent coking. Let the car idle or drive out of boost for the last 5 min of your drive and you'll be fine regardless of how hard you ran whether your water cooled or not.
If you have provisions for cooling why not use them BUT ITS NOT MANDATORY.

Then I suggest you never get a non-water-cooled turbo.the way I drive my GSX most of my driving is within five minutes of where I am.
So what about guys who are currently using diesel oil in their gasoline engines, and have been doing so for years and years? What are the negatives to this other than having a clean engine and well-protected turbo system?The oil they use in diesel engines is different from gasoline engines.
Then your logic is very flawed, because in my years of rebuilding turbos I've seen many water-cooled turbos that suffer the same oil coking issues that non-water-cooled turbos suffer from. If water cooling eliminated oil coking, then my repair business would probably be cut in half....but it's not.Liquid cooled turbochargers were designed to enhance durability by preventing coking, which is caused by oil cooking on the metal bearings. Oil only cools the turbo when the engine is running. Turbo chargers heat soak with heat from the cylinder head and exhaust manifold after you shut the engine down. The advantage of liquid cooling is the turbo stays cooler while the engine is running and it continues to cool after the engine is shut down when the turbo is heat soaking. That is why it is a good idea to use it if the turbo was designed to work that way.