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Electrical 2g problem.

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Chrispy0530

15+ Year Contributor
913
26
Aug 7, 2008
Miami, Florida
So at this point, I've gotten to the point where I am at a loss.

Long story short. I was cruising home around 40MPH, and the car out of no where has a huge loss of power, rpm drops drastically, and the car is shaking as if it had a tremendous boost leak/blown coupler.

I am not getting spark in Cylinder 2 or 3 from the coil pack, and I cannot for the life of me figure out why. I have spent 2 full days on this, and I'm really losing hope here.

Here are things that have already been done,

-Changed Coil Pack (3 different ones that I know work)
-Changed Power Transistor
-Changed CAS (6 bolt CAS on a 7-bolt motor)
-Changed Spark Plugs (Gapped correctly, but this is not even the problem as there is no spark reaching the Spark Plug)
-Changed Spark Plug Wires
-Checked all wires, fuses for any signs of shorts or bare wire, and all grounds were double checked.

Firing order is correct, and I'm getting fuel. The problem is there is no spark coming out from the coil to the spark plug wire for Cly 2 & 3.
 
Yeah, ECU is fine. ECMlink V3. Connects fine to laptop, and when turning the key on, check engine light and a few other lights come on for 5 seconds and disappears like normal.

Opened it up as well just to double check and nothing out of the ordinary.





--
Update 12:55pm
--
Just to double check, I put the ECU in a friends car, and his car fired right up with no problems.


My ebay ground kit came in the mail, so I ran along all my lines today, double checked and re-grounded a lot of things. Replaced the battery with a brand new one, rechecked fuses, inside cabin wiring. Everything checks out OK, but still the same freakin problem. =/

I have spent all morning, and without results.
 
Last edited:
My transistor is not grounded and no issues for me. I think it's time to start running tests. Test spark output from the ecu, then continuity test from ecu to PT. Then test signal from PT to coil, and then cont. from PT to coil.
 
PTU doesn't have to be grounded. What ended up being my problem was the actual PTU Connector was corroded inside. Cleaned it up, and fired all 4 cylinders right up.

Though, the car slightly miss-fires for like half a second sometimes, but at least it's not all the time like it was before.

Will be going to a Junk Yard to find a PTU connector that's clean to resolve that small issue.
 
Since it has been a problem connector for you then try a dab of dyelectric grease so it will not return.
 
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