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Egr and Charcoal canister question.

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El Cuervo

20+ Year Contributor
576
27
Nov 7, 2004
Omaha, Nebraska
Hi I have some question about the egr and charcoal canister.
It seens like there is some vacum lines that connect to the charcoal canister and the egr. I'm looking into deleting the egr and some of the vacum lines. This can help eliminate some of the common vacum leaks and clean up the enigne bay a bit. It will also allow me to go SD in the future.
My question is: Can I delete the EGR and still have a fully functional Charcoal canister?? I just hate the idea of having an open hose/line thats directly connected to the fuel tank. I have the charcoal canister connected to the intake pipe like stock. Isn't there a valve on the charcoal canister or on the lines that opens and closes via pressure or vacum on the egr, thus releasing gases to the intake? This is whats stoping me from deleting my egr and vacum lines.
Again, I would love to get rid of all this junk but still retain a fully functional charcoal canister.

thanks
jorge.
 
You mean a 1 way check valve that opens when the pressure in the tank is high enough. That gas then goes into the canister which is routed in with the emissions setup.

You can't just block it off but you can route the line back underneith your car of plumb it into your intake somehow.
 
I would love to have it connected back into the intake, just like factory. I do have it like this right now but I also still have the egr. I'm going to see if I can find a way of keeping a fully functional charcoal canister while getting rid of most vacum lines and the egr.
Thanks for the imput guys. If anybody has this set up, please post how you did it.
Thanks again.

jorge.

Yeah. The last thing that I want is a pressurized fuel tank or an overly vented fuel tank, to where fuel can be spilling out of or where impurities from the road/atmosphere can be entering and clogging the line. I also hate having a car that smells like gasoline all the time. This is the reason as to why I want to keep my charcoal canister fully functional.
 
No sorry, i removed the canister, all the lines, and solenoids on the firewall. A buddy of mine left the check valve under the hood and had a faint fuel smell in the car, so i placed mine at the tank. No problems no smells

Why are you looking to save the canister? Loosing the canister allowed me to drop my battery down much lower, almost out of site. It helped clean the bay up a bit, seems like that's what your going for.
 
I want to keep the canister because its kinda've a filter on a way. This way I will be able to connect to the intake pre-turbo. Just how it is on stock. I want to have a properly vented gas tank. Well, vented to the intake, not to the atmosphere.
 
Very true. But remember that I'm trying to find a way on how to keep a functional canister. Like I said before, I want recirculate the vapors to the intake, just like in stock configuration. While deleteing the egr and most of the vacume lines. If I find it to be impossible, then I will just rid of everything. But I don't like my car smelling like gasoline under the hood.
 
OK. I have an Idea. Lets say I remove everything. Canister and all the lines that go with it. Now I have a line from the tank thats vented to the atmosphere. So instead of putting a breather filter to the end of this line and have it vent to the atmosphere. What if you connect this line to the pre-turbo intake pipe with an inline filter between the intake snorkel and the hard line that comes from the fule tank? This way you don't have any gasoline smells (if you gat any) and you are not venting to the atmosphere.
So basically instead of venting the line, you connect it to the intake snorkel right after the air filter and before the turbo.

Any thoughts on this?

thanks.
 
After removing all my emission stuff years ago I forget where the rubber hose it then went to the canister, my car always smells like gas, even more now that I opened up the firewall by passenger side for my meth install and what not.

Maybe its under the firewall just blown vapors up to me inside the car
 
It sounds like a good idea but I'm really not that familiar with the science behind that vent line. Like is there ever a time when gas (not just vapors) comes out the vent? At what pressure does the factory check valve open? Is a filter needed in addition to the check valve? Is it really necessary to run the line all the way to the engine bay or can it be vented in the back?

I had my vent line blocked off for about 5 years (I read to do that on here). I have since unblocked it and vented it down out of the engine bay. While it was blocked off I had a lot of pressure release when I opened by gas cap but no other negative results.

I like the idea of properly venting it. I am interested in finding out more.
 
Yeah. This is something that I'm trying to figure out. So basically the idea here is: replace the charcoal canister with a catch can and an inline filter, kinda line a fuel filter. Then connect the line to the Intake pre-turbo pipe (between the turbo and the air filter). The purpose of this is to recirculate the released fuel tank vapors back into the engine instead of dumping them into the atmosphere. Some people say that they don't get any gasoline smells in their engine bay. Others say that their engine bay littery smells like a gasoline station. Some people have been running their vent line plugged with no ill effects. And some people report immediate build up of pressure in their tanks. I don't know if the pressure can get high enough to blow up the tank or cause any form negative side effects. Don't know at all. Because of it, I don't want to risk it. We cannot have a properly funtional charcoal canister if we remove the vacume ports that connect to the throttle body and to the canister system and the purge control solenoid. This is according to taboos vacume diagram.
Besides, removing all this junk can eliminate vacume leaks and clean up the enigne bay a bit more.
The catchan and filter would be there to try and separate any liquids form the vapors released. Or if there is any liquid form subtances coming out of the vent line. I'm sure that the charcoal canister is not open all the time and constantly releasing vapors into the intake snorkel, because it has vacume lines running to it and a solenoid. So I guessing that it opens at certain rpms or at certain intake manifold pressures, whether is posotive pressure or negative pressure, i don't really know. The check valve is probably there to allow a one way flow and mabe to avoid pressurizing the fuel tank via the same line.
This is no big deal. A plastic check valve can be installed between the hard vent line and the catchcan. This idea would basically mimic the proper way of connecting a PCV valve from the intake manifold to the valve cover.
So what do you guys think?
Will it work or not?? Lets brain storm on this. Mabe its a good Idea or it can be a bad one. Maybe its not good to have a consitant vent from the fuel tank to the intake snorkel. Maybe that why the charcoal canister uses vacume lines to close and open the line connected to the intake snorkel. I don't know.
 
I did this mod and left my canister. I eliminated all vac lines to the canister and just left the line from the tank and to the intake. I blocked off my stinkin egr and eliminated all the vac lines. the only ones you need are to your bov, wastegate, fuel press reg, and aftermarket boost (if you have one, I would). best of all my car doesnt smell like gas under the hood or in my car. seemed to work good for me. it does build up some pressure in the tank but not much, it has always built up some so i didnt worry and didnt seem to increase any.
 
Yeah. I would do that if it was possible to run the charcoal canister correctly without the vacume lines from the TB and the solenoid on the fire wall. Charcoal doesn't work like it should without these lines. Heck, I don't even know if it opens up to release the pressure to the intake snorkel since the vaucume to TB and solenoid are disconnected. Accutally, I jwould like to know the proper function of these vacume lines and solenoid that connect to the canister. Thats why i was wanting to replace the canister with an inline filter, a catcan and a small plastic check valve. Then routed back to the intake sorkel, just like factory has it with the charcoal canister.
 
Just a catch can isnt going to work. You will end up pulling a vac on the tank. The canister has a self contained valve at the bottom of it that when the purge takes place it allows fresh air to come in to the can and clean the charcoal. It is possible also that venting striat out can be a leak. If by chance ( and it has happened to me) that the fuel pump doesnt shut off while pumping in to the tank, it can over fill and leak out the vent. Putting a check valve on the vent line will allow pressure to build in the tank. It should never get to the point of being dangerous, or cause any problems. The cap has a rated release spring for this reason. Not sure what it is. But by the time you need gas again, the pressure will not be that bad and you will release it when you remove the cap to fill up. A pressure build in the tank is normal to a certain point. But it is better then a vac in the tank. With lots of designing and testing, and just as many or more, vac lines and one way valves, you could build a system that would work. But then your back peddling and have wasted a lot of time and money to do the same thing as the sys. that is already in place.
 
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