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Strange Boosting

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quick_silver_

Probationary Member
9
0
Feb 6, 2010
Hartsville, Tennessee
Ok I have a 95 gst and its boosting strange. Its pushing 16lbs of boost and when I get in on it, it boosts fine until 3rd maybe 4th gear when climbing the rpms. Its like fluctuating or something. It is like pulliing and stoping pulling and stoping like im letting out of it. It has a blitz dd bov hard piping to the ic, and a cheap manuel under hood boost controller. Only thing I did was the bov valve cause it had a cheap ebay bov called the monster when I bought the car. Boost controllers from ebay also again I didnt buy. The turbo is a Td05H super 16G. I didnt buy or put it on either. Fuel is STOCK. Buyin a fuel pump next friday along with injectors. So anyone know what the problem could be??
 
Ok I have a 95 gst and its boosting strange. Its pushing 16lbs of boost and when I get in on it, it boosts fine until 3rd maybe 4th gear when climbing the rpms.
First, lower the boost if you are on stock fuel. Nothing more than 15psi on the stock turbo. Using a 16g you IMO you should only be running 12ish on stock fuel.

Its like fluctuating or something. It is like pulliing and stoping pulling and stoping like im letting out of it.
Can you explain this a little better.


Only thing I did was the bov valve cause it had a cheap ebay bov called the monster when I bought the car.
Please tell me that you are recirculating the BOV back into the intake. You will have problems if you are venting without using a GM MAF in blowthrough or running speed density.

Buyin a fuel pump next friday along with injectors.
IF you go larger than a Walbro 190lph pump, you'll need an AFPR as well. What size injectors are you getting?

So anyone know what the problem could be??

If you haven't done any maintenance or repairs, do them first and do a boost leak test as well http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...se-troubleshoot-boost-leak-tester-merged.html. Fix any and all leaks you have and then see what it's like. It's possible you were hitting fuel cut because of your boost levels on stock fuel, but your description wasn't really a description at all.
 
Im buying a walbro 255lph and im wanting to go to 660cc injectors. Not going to put them on unil I get them both then im going to put my greddy emanage ultimate on with the fuel pump and injectors at the same time and get a tune. Not recirculating the bov cause I got it used the car does quit sometimes but I know its because its not recirculated. I have a hks idling stablizer for it just needs to be put on. It does still fuel cut sometimes. But just when your driving and you get on it it it is hard to explain. It doesnt just pull like its supposed to it isnt missing. You can feel it fluctuating kinda. Its hard to explain....forgot to say I was gettin the afpr also
 
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Recirculate the BOV as well. Don't bother with that "idle stabilizer", you are still blowing out metered air. To a full boost leak test and fix any leaks you have. Get something other than the EManage as well. If you get the 255lph pump, you WILL NEED an AFPR as well.

Like Jeffery said, drop the boost.
 
I know what fuel cut is and its definetly not fuel cutting. Im not gettin rid of the emange its pretty bad ass. I should have bought the dsm link but the emanage ultimate I have can do just as much if not more. The things it can do is pretty awesome. I cant recirculate the bov because the piece to the blitz dd to do it is gone. When I get the blitz type s im def not recirculating it. Im goin to set it up so that I dont have to. Also I know im goin to have to get afpr. I could drop the boost but it doesnt fuel cut. Just goin to leave it and put all the other stuff on it. I dont drive it anyways until I get all the fuel system and the emanage thrown on,I drive my n/a eclipse right now. I was just wanderin if you guys knew what it was doing but its hard to explain. also there arent any leaks.
 
I know what fuel cut is and its definetly not fuel cutting. Im not gettin rid of the emange its pretty bad ass. I should have bought the dsm link but the emanage ultimate I have can do just as much if not more. The things it can do is pretty awesome. I cant recirculate the bov because the piece to the blitz dd to do it is gone. When I get the blitz type s im def not recirculating it. Im goin to set it up so that I dont have to. Also I know im goin to have to get afpr. I could drop the boost but it doesnt fuel cut. Just goin to leave it and put all the other stuff on it. I dont drive it anyways until I get all the fuel system and the emanage thrown on,I drive my n/a eclipse right now. I was just wanderin if you guys knew what it was doing but its hard to explain. also there arent any leaks.

If the EManage is so much better then why isn't it the EMS of choice then? So you are getting a GM MAF + MAFT or going speed density then? Those are the only ways to vent properly. Dropping the boost is so you SAVE YOUR MOTOR. Your injectors are not big enough to properly boost that level with the added air flow. On an ALL STOCK motor you are not to boost more than 15, there is not enough fuel. Did you do a thorough boost leak test?
 
I have the same problem with my stock gs-t. it is bone stock, engine-wise. when i start climbing rpm's and building boost it will pull and then like kind of cut off, how you described it. sometimes it doesnt do it at all, but mainly in 3rd or 4th gear when im climbing from lower rpm's. it doesnt do it much anymore since ive been running premium fuel, i had a suspicion that the dealership put in regular fuel before i got it, and it hasnt been running that rough since. but i can still feel it every once in a while..
 
I know what fuel cut is and its definetly not fuel cutting. Im not gettin rid of the emange its pretty bad ass. I should have bought the dsm link but the emanage ultimate I have can do just as much if not more. The things it can do is pretty awesome.

Then it should have no problem telling you exactly what is going on with your engine once you toss it in there. ;)

I cant recirculate the bov because the piece to the blitz dd to do it is gone.

You could recirculate just about any BOV. The only real factor is whether or not it has an outlet designed to accept a hose, or if you need to have someone weld one on (assuming you don't just want to spend $25-$50 on a solid 1G BOV upgrade and do it right in the first place).


When I get the blitz type s im def not recirculating it. Im goin to set it up so that I dont have to.

With a GM Maf and translator, or speed density?

*************

You guys are either:

1. Hitting fuel cut
2. Having tuning issues due to non-recirculated BOV's, other bad practices, incorrect base timing, etc.
3. Running pig rich causing the car to load up and misfire, etc.
4. Feeling the effects of pulled timing due to high knock counts.
5. Experiencing misfires due to ignition issues (bad wires, worn out plugs, old tired coils, improper plug gap, etc.)

Three different people have made very good suggestions as to where to start. I would follow their advice as well as the basic troubleshooting tips in the tech articles, VFAQ, and answered questions sections.
 
Im going with the GM MAF sensor and MAF translator. Its not cutting off it is just like fluctuating or something. I don`t drive the car right now though Im driving my non turbo. Im not messing with it at all until I get everything set up right and have it tuned properly. The turbo does have shaft play from the previous owner beating the car. I only picked it up for 3000 with 115k. Not TOO bad for a 95. But No boost leaks its all welded accept at the side mount and the turbo. As for the e-manage I agree I should have bought the dsm link but Im not goin to get what I paid for it if I sold it,so Im going to put it on. I dono what the dsm link can do but the emanage can control injector pulse spark individual cylinders its got launch control ect. Its bad ass for seven hundred, and I have HEARD its the best thing without going to stand alone. Its not just a regular e-manage either its better newer(thus the name e-manage ultimate). And the emanage comes with FREE downloads from Greddy. I have to get a lap top for it also cant tune it with a tiny screen.
 
geez link is less expensive, can probably do twice as much, and has been proven on many dsms already.

I really dont understand why people ask for help then when they get answers they dont want to listen. Your car is running like sh*t because your BOV is vented to the atmosphere, your'e running to much boost for the stock fuel system, you have cheap parts that are failing, and who knows what other problems you have with the car that you failed to mention.
 
its not running like shit runs great just boosts wierd. And only cheap part on it is the boost controller but I didn't buy that the previous owner does. I didnt say the dsm link wasn't any good it is really good for dsm`s its cheaper and easier to tune with but sorry there is no way its better than the emanage ultimate. It has so many better options and comes with free downloads to update it. I didnt ask for help either I just wanted to see if someone knew what it was doing when the turbo spooled up to max boost. The bov I didnt do either got the car with it un recirculated.
 
itI didnt ask for help either I just wanted to see if someone knew what it was doing when the turbo spooled up to max boost..


Correct me if I'm wrong, but that IS asking for help.

If you don't need help then you should know what's wrong with your car. Have you even done any maintenance or repairs to the vehicle yet? Also what do you mean "it's all welder, just connected at the turbo" ALL of you IC piping is welded together all the way up to the throttle body? There are more places boost leaks out of than just the IC piping and you would know that if you searched the terms we are throwing at you and looked at the link I posted a few days ago. What spark plugs do you have and do you have new wires? Did you turn the boost down as well?
 
When I purchased the car it had a ebay bov that leaked boost pressure and was pushing 20psi. It fuel cut so bad it scared me the first time I drove it. When I got it home the boost went down to 12psi, all the vacuum hoses on the throttle body were blocked off and the fuel pressure solenoid was blocked off. I put it all back on and got the blitz DD bov. It come off my friends car and he didnt have the piece to recirculate it. I changed the oil flushed the coolant it got new wires NGK iridium plugs, changed the air filter and got new belts. Trust me I take care of my cars epecially my gst its my pride and joy means more to me than anything even my gf.(except my son) I wasnt asking for help just seein if anyone knew what it was doing. Its going on the shop this weekend for new gaskets just cause it has 115k miles on it. And thats it so far. I parked it under my car port and have been driving my n/a because I have nothing for fuel right now. Its a 95 and I picked it up for 3000.
 
Take out the iridium plugs and put in NGK BPR6ES. Other plugs just don't work right with our cars. Did you do the boost leak test yet? Pressurize the system to at least 20psi and use a spray bottle of water and soap to find any leaks. Until the MAF and translator are on, recirculate the BOV.
 
Venting your BOV isn't as harmful as everyone assumes it is. True, your computer is compensating for that extra air being poured back in, so it adds extra fuel. But my BOV vents for about 1/4 second. It's super quick and that extra bit of fuel it gets causes me to run rich for about 1/8 second. So yeah, I run rich, but it was cheap and it works.


Do you have the knockoff of the TurboSmart boost controller? I made the mistake of picking one of them up, and my boost was doing the same thing. Everyone tried to tell me that it was the vented BOV... swapped out the MBC and it fixed the weird boost spike thing.
 
Well thats seems to be boost creep. Take off your ebay boost controller and throw it as far as you can as long as this is in a garbage can.

The problem is probably your 3in exhaust pipe. You will need to port the wastegate on the 16g.
 
Sounds like quick silver is having the same problem I did. Its a combination of creep and spike. Mine is set to 16 psi (T25), but will spike to 19, drop to 14, then climb to 16, drop back to 14, and back to 16...... It's a common problem for MBC's that are made for in-cabin mounting. I have mine mounted under the hood, but it's a "bleed off" type which isn't as stable or accurate.

I'm just trying to convince my wife to let me spend the 40 bucks on a JoeP.
 
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Im having this retarded ass problem now, well ive been having it for a minute. I have the hallman es boost controller and my boost fluctuates and its very aggervating. How do i stop it. Ohh yea no boost leaks at all..:toobad:
 
Try running a straight vac hose from your j pipe, intercooler pipe to your wastegate and see if thats helps. You wont be running 16 psi but get on it wot and see if you still have problems. This will determine if its the mbc. If you still have issues change plugs.
 
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