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krkline2gdsm

15+ Year Contributor
59
0
Mar 21, 2008
Hyannis, Massachusetts
Figure I would post up a project I have been working on for a couple months. Here is the car/setup.

I would have the car done but I lead a busy life. I work 6 days a week, 8-5 then I train in MMA from usually 6-9:30 every night so I dont have much free time. I usually pick away at the car on Sundays.

94 Eagle Talon TSi

6 bolt block
-Wiseco Pistons 9.1:1
-1G rods w/ ARP rod bolts
-ACL bearings
-AMS race style balance shaft
-Stock crank/mains

2G head
-BC 272 cams
-BC valve prings/retainers
-Revised lifters
-Supertech bronze valve guides
-SS +1mm OS valves
-Bowls ported/blended into valve seat, exhaust side hogged out, clean up port job
-ARP head studs

Evo 3 16G (clocked downward facing)
-2.5" aluminum piping
-ETS FMIC 25x10x3 core
-Tial BOV
-1G TB
-2G intake manifold ported to match TB

and the rest goes...
-2G exhaust manifold heavily ported
-7cm hotside ported
-Tial wastegate off the O2 housing
-2.5" O2 housing (front O2 sensor eliminated)
-2.5" downpipe
-3" Thermal exhaust (no cat)
-Walbro 255 fuel pump
-560cc injectors (need to upgrade now!!!)
-Aeromotive fuel press regulator
-Innovate LC1 wideband w/ aux box and log works
-ECM link V3 via 3" GM MAF but soon to convert to SD
-ACT flywheel
-ACT 2600 w/ 6 puck sprung disc
-Stock transmission/tcase/rear diff (eeeeek!!!)
-New timing belt, tensioner, idler, waterpump
-New clutch master cyl, new slave cylinder (2G style), SS clutch line from master to slave, new clutch fork
-Air cooler oil cooler

and I removed ALOT of stuff of the car that annoys me and is not needed. First of all got rid of ALL the emission components. Swapped to a manual steering rack (no power steering pump, rack, lines, resevior, etc.) Modified the driver side motor mount. blah blah blah. I dont know. Alot has been accomplished. I am just wrapping up the project this month to have some fun this year. I know the car is capable of an 11second pass. How far into the 11s, I do not know.

Here are a couple pics. Pics are a couple weeks old. I cant find the wire to my camera. Have any questions, ask.

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And to give you an idea of how simple my setup is in the front by modifying driver motor mount, removing AC/PS, etc. here is a pic of when the motor was in my galant vr4.. Its actually going to be alot cleaner because I am running the pipe underneath (downward facing turbo) and the alternator is being relocated to the back.

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Please post this to a build blog/journal instead of starting a new thread.
 
What are the tire dimensions?

Also: Your dog looks none too impressed.

Not sure, they came with the car. I plan to wrap 255/45 on them soon. I think they are only 205s on there right now... Not sure. I will deal with that part when i get into the suspension mods. There is some cheap ass no name springs on HYB GR2 struts in there now and it has SEVERE camber issue in the back.

Add the dog isnt impressed. He knows these cars are a waste of time! ;)
 
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krkline2gdsm, like mentioned above, please post your project updates in a blog format. Everybody is being strongly encouraged to make that transition for projects, so it's not just you. It looks like an interesting project and I'd like to see more :) I believe you should be able to post there with your status. If not, let me know and we can figure it out.

On another note, keep the stupid comments to yourself. There is no place for them on this site. Thanks!
 
Why did you choose to route that much IC piping right next to the manifold and radiator? It's going to get pretty hot even with a heat shield on.
 
Why did you choose to route that much IC piping right next to the manifold and radiator? It's going to get pretty hot even with a heat shield on.

Well according to other members here, they say the stock routing is pefect! LOL. So I followed the stock routing... ;)

That was a pic when it was 90% done. I installed a heat shield and I wrapped the pipe. I was against the idea but when you made the intercooler, we addressed another issue you DSM guys make all the time. You buy these huge intercoolers and both the inlet and outlet are on the bottom of the intercooler. If I ran the pipe downward along the bottom with a Jpipe, the air would enter the lower part of the intercooler and ecit the lower part of the intercooler. Defeats the purpose of having a big intercooler as the upper portion doesnt get used. Now by having the inlet up top of the end tank and have it exit the lower part, it forces the air across the entire intercooler and uses the entire intercooler resulting in cooler air. Although, the pipe before the intercooler will actually get hotter being over the manifold, we really didnt have a choice unless we chose to run the piping the long method which I was 100% against. Here are some pics of better angles to understand. The frame
of the galant does not allow you to run a lower pipe inlet. We basically copied a ETS kit from scratch but improved it. I ended up making a whole new bracket for hood latch to stuff the intercooler in behind a 100% stock uncut front bumper. It took some time but we made it fit perfect and did it all for half the price of an ETS kit.

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What exactly did you do to the driver's side motor mount?

I made it so its easier to work in and around the engine. Thats what I did. Look at a stock mount then look at mine. A little cutting and welding w/ a shot of black spray paint goes a long way and really cleans things up!

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WTF

Stock routing doesn't go over the top of the mani like that...

She's correct, stock piping on the 2g with T-25 fires downwards and then elbows towards the passenger side wheel well. The 1g with the 14B (same setup as a 16G) utilizes a j-pipe to and then connects the same as above. A FMIC with a 16G will use a j-pipe as wel.

You have room to work there as I'm using a j-pipe on my E316G that's going to a short route FMIC. Redo the IC piping so you aren't heating up the charged air more than it needs to be :thumb:.
 
WTF

Stock routing doesn't go over the top of the mani like that...

She's correct, stock piping on the 2g with T-25 fires downwards and then elbows towards the passenger side wheel well. The 1g with the 14B (same setup as a 16G) utilizes a j-pipe to and then connects the same as above. A FMIC with a 16G will use a j-pipe as wel.

You have room to work there as I'm using a j-pipe on my E316G that's going to a short route FMIC. Redo the IC piping so you aren't heating up the charged air more than it needs to be :thumb:.

100% bone stock Galant VR4

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So I should redo my intercooler piping? Are you missing the fact I corrected the issue by running the pipe lower already and have a downward facing turbo? You can not run the pipe low on the galant anyways unless you run it the long routing and have the inlet on the bottom of the intercooler All ETS FMIC kits for the galant run up like that. I dont know how you guys are confusing this. Its a Galant! In a few pics with the pipe running over the manifold, there are so many ways you can tell this isnt a 1G or a 2G. For instance the radiator cap on the radiator and not the tstat housing.

And in case you missed the part where I pulled the motor out of the Galant and its now in a Talon... nevermind. I will just post the pic of how the galant sits to this day. Not the same car as I mentioned. If you read instead of assuming, you will see what is going on here:

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#1370 RIP
 

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I believe they were assuming that it was a DSM engine bay and not a Galant, and that is where the confusion was coming from.

I dont know how they confused that. Its CLEARLY not a 1G or 2g engine bay. I cna point out over 20 things in the engine bay how its not a 1G or 2G. Not to mention, I clearly stated "here is a pic of when the motor was in my galant vr4.. Its actually going to be alot cleaner because I am running the pipe underneath (downward facing turbo) and the alternator is being relocated to the back." in my very first post. I dont know how it was confused.

And if you guys want to question how I ran the pipe on the Galant, call ETS first and take the issue up with them because thats how they do all theres for the Galant because of how the car is setup. I copied ETS setup (not realizing it until after we made the piping) but made much better improvments about the setup.

ETS kit for the Galant with pipe over the manifold:

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what happened to that Galant?

Long story short... when I cracked all my ring lands, I pulled the motor. I happen to come across a clean Talon and I would much rather be in the Talon over this Galant. The Galant was a pit! It was rotting from underneath, paint fading, clearcoat peeling, dents, etc. It was a fast little sleeper but I got tired of my "toy" looking like a piece of shit. I grabbed the Talon and decided to swap everything over. I then parted out wasnt interchangable and when I was done stripping the Galant and making just about $3k in parts in a month, I simulated what happens when you forget to shut your hood and drive at high speeds so we flipped the hood into windshield, smashed it up for a bit, and sent it to the junker. I almsot got banned from the galant forum for smashing the car up. People HATED me for that
 

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You are saying that there is NO ROOM from doing a downward facing turbo and running the pipe towards the driverside along the radiator to an inlet on a FMIC and then up how it currently is on the other side?
 
It is an interesting build though and would like to see updates on it :coy:.


Just trying to help out, that's what us DSMers do :thumb:
 
You are saying that there is NO ROOM from doing a downward facing turbo and running the pipe towards the driverside along the radiator to an inlet on a FMIC and then up how it currently is on the other side?

To answer your question, I dont even know how to answer it actually. If your talking about the Galant, nothing is facing downwarss on the galant but if you were to put a downward facing turbo on a galant, you can run it to the driverside and then back up but that is unecessary bends. Maybe extend into the fender area and have it loop back in? eh... I dont know. I cant answer your question on the Galant because I never put a downward facing turbo on a galant so I dont know.

Reply with a more detailed question and I will try to answer it the best way i can.
 
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To answer your question, I dont even know how to answer it actually. If your talking about the Galant, nothing is facing downwarss on the galant but if you were to put a downward facing turbo on a galant, you can run it to the driverside and then back up but that is unecessary bends. Maybe extend into the fender area and have it loop back in? eh... I dont know. I cant answer your question on the Galant because I never put a downward facing turbo on a galant so I dont know.

Reply with a more detailed question and I will try to answer it the best way i can.

Basically it's the same way you have yours routed now, but it's done along the lower part of the radiator or a bit further back towards the engine. Check out most short route kits on how they are run and you can figure out what I was describing. There "may" be a few more bends, but those extra bends will be cooler than what you have now which in turn will make the IC cool the air easier/colder. Anything is possible when you customize.

See how the piping is routed? A j-pipe would be used to drop down to the IC pipe if using a upward facing outlet like the 16g.

2g picture from the VR-SpeedFactory website
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1g reference for pipe routing
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The only determing factor is if the ETS FMIC you have has the inlet at the top or bottom. I'm assuming it's at the top though if that's a kit you received. If you can't fix it at all, I would coat the manifold, put a coated heat sheild (just underside) and then wrap the IC piping in that area to keep out as much radiant heat as possible.

Yeah, just saw the pictures of you FMIC setup and you'll need (should) to go with my written recommendation :thumb:
 
Dude... OMG. I am repeating myself, again!

On the Galant, you cannot run the piping that low and have it come in on that angle.. 2 different cars. Do you not understand that? We looked at all different ways and the way I did it was the only way unless I ran it low and around into the fender and back which again defeats the purpose of a big intercooler because it enters low and exits low making the upper portion of the intercooler useless.

Like I said, if you would like to question the way I did it, contact ETS and tell them there design sucks. I did not buy an ETS kit. I made that entire kit by hand.

I dont even know why we are discussing this as I know am in a 1G Talon, have a downward facing turbo and have said I am running the piping along the bottoma lready. I dont get what your trying to point out to me... I really dont.
 
There "may" be a few more bends, but those extra bends will be cooler than what you have now which in turn will make the IC cool the air easier/colder.


Nice guess, but you're wrong. :nono:

GVR4 guys have run the over-the-top lower intercooler pipe for years because of the lack of room we have in our cars between the radiator and the turbo. AC lines, wastegates, etc get in the way of the conventional DSM way of running the piping as well. I've heard so many people try to say that running this configuration will heat up the air passing through the pipe. This isn't true.

I have logged air temps at the upper intercooler pipe on my setup and find that cruising down the freeway in vacuum the temps are at or near ambient. Logged temps in boost up long grades for minutes at a time temps are only a few degrees above ambient. Summer or winter, whether you go over or under the manifold, it makes no difference.

That said, none of this is even in question since the OP is running his piping for his DSM using the conventional method. You guys just aren't paying attention to what he wrote and assumed that GVR4 engine bay was a DSM, which it obviously wasn't if you actually looked.
 
So, to clear something up, all the pictures with the intercooler and piping were of the Galant, which is now junked. The motor that was in the Galant will be put into (or may already be in) the 1g you picked up and have normal piping routing (underneath the exhaust manifold, like shown in post #20).

Correct?
 
Nice guess, but you're wrong. :nono:

GVR4 guys have run the over-the-top lower intercooler pipe for years because of the lack of room we have in our cars between the radiator and the turbo. AC lines, wastegates, etc get in the way of the conventional DSM way of running the piping as well. I've heard so many people try to say that running this configuration will heat up the air passing through the pipe. This isn't true.

I have logged air temps at the upper intercooler pipe on my setup and find that cruising down the freeway in vacuum the temps are at or near ambient. Logged temps in boost up long grades for minutes at a time temps are only a few degrees above ambient. Summer or winter, whether you go over or under the manifold, it makes no difference.

That said, none of this is even in question since the OP is running his piping for his DSM using the conventional method. You guys just aren't paying attention to what he wrote and assumed that GVR4 engine bay was a DSM, which it obviously wasn't if you actually looked.

:thumb:

I gotta get back over to the gvr4 boards. People talked bad about tuners... I didnt know it was this bad. This all started by looking for pics on a clocked 16g setup today. People started questioning me and my reasons, methods, then started aksing questions, then started hating, then I started owning.

Have a great time on tuners guys. I wont be back

So, to clear something up, all the pictures with the intercooler and piping were of the Galant, which is now junked. The motor that was in the Galant will be put into (or may already be in) the 1g you picked up and have normal piping routing (underneath the exhaust manifold, like shown in post #20).

Correct?

That is 100% correct. Motor is in, turbo is clocked, piping is in, ready to go. I dont understand the confusion. I was pretty clear about everything in my first post.
 
Nice guess, but you're wrong. :nono:

GVR4 guys have run the over-the-top lower intercooler pipe for years because of the lack of room we have in our cars between the radiator and the turbo. AC lines, wastegates, etc get in the way of the conventional DSM way of running the piping as well. I've heard so many people try to say that running this configuration will heat up the air passing through the pipe. This isn't true.

I have logged air temps at the upper intercooler pipe on my setup and find that cruising down the freeway in vacuum the temps are at or near ambient. Logged temps in boost up long grades for minutes at a time temps are only a few degrees above ambient. Summer or winter, whether you go over or under the manifold, it makes no difference.

That said, none of this is even in question since the OP is running his piping for his DSM using the conventional method. You guys just aren't paying attention to what he wrote and assumed that GVR4 engine bay was a DSM, which it obviously wasn't if you actually looked.

If you read my last post you would see that I corrected myself in my assumption. I did NOT however know that the air temps wouldn't change being right next to the manifold which is pretty cool (no pun intended LOL). I was just stating that anything is possible with the right tools and know-how. I was curious to the routing at first as I wasn't aware of the GVR-4 IC pipe route. I know now, so that mistake won't be made again.

Thanks again for pointing that out for me :coy:

That is 100% correct. Motor is in, turbo is clocked, piping is in, ready to go. I dont understand the confusion. I was pretty clear about everything in my first post.

I believe what caught us off gaurd was just seeing the picture of the motor on the Galant which IMO wasn't needed, at least not in the middle of all the pictures:). I did read it and got confused so I appologize about that.

Well, have fun back on the other forum then and thank you for judging us off of 1 or 2 threads that are infact full of mature (I hope for this posts sake) people from all over the globe. Good luck with the build.
 
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