HELP? cranks but no start

tkhaab_94 · 11-01-2009, 01:04 PM

yessterday i got a new bov. greddy type s. put it on there. my car started up fine. drove fine. put it in the garage and called it a night. today this morning i decided to start it up. i heard a noise while starting it so i stopped. thinking "wtf was that?" opened the hood. checked belts. everything looks good. tried to start it up again but no start. just cranks..i havent checked for spark or fuel because i dont know how to do that. so any suggestions?

rnstphns · 11-01-2009, 01:19 PM

Unplug a spark plug wire and lay it close to a bit of grounded bare chassis or body metal, have someone crank the engine and watch to see if it sparks.

400hp93talon · 11-01-2009, 01:22 PM

Pull the plugs out. take one at a time and ground the plug on your intake or exhaust manifold to see if they spark. If they dont the coil is most likely your problem. Im pretty sure you can test the injectors buy pulling the connectors off and reading the voltage with an ohm meter to make sure they r all gettin a signal from the ecu. If your not getting either it might be your cas.

tkhaab_94 · 11-01-2009, 01:50 PM

Any other suggestion? I tried to jump it because i drained the battery while trying to start it alot. So now my car has no crank..

rnstphns · 11-01-2009, 01:56 PM

If you've been trying to start it alot you should know if your getting fuel. In fact you most likely have a lake brewing in your cylinder walls. I would certainly think you'd be able to smell raw gas if you drained a battery trying to start it. The plugs are probably fouled as well, pull the plugs, charge the battery, and let it air out for a bit. Then go back and try again.

one_bad_spyder · 11-01-2009, 02:01 PM

check your fuses under the hood. sometimes its the simple stuff like that that we tend to overlook 90% of the time. It seems to obvious to be the issue and at the end of the day we beat ourselves up because the solution ws so simple

tkhaab_94 · 11-01-2009, 02:16 PM

Checked all fuses. They look good. Dont smell gas. Havent checked for spark yet becauae battery is low. Charging it as we speak.

Tried to start it and it cranks, but no start... :'(

Its got spark

400hp93talon · 11-01-2009, 04:34 PM

Make sure you have fuel pressure your pump might have ate crap you!!

tkhaab_94 · 11-01-2009, 05:35 PM

I Got pressure. I have a fuel pressure gauge. Its reading 25 psi and its always been like that. I got fuel. I tested to volts on the fuel injectors and its reading About 12.5. Can it be my starter? Where is it at i cant seem to find it.

boosteclipse · 11-01-2009, 05:55 PM

Do the plugs look fouled? Starter is on the rear of engine,tranny side.
Doubt it is your starter if it is cranking over good.

tkhaab_94 · 11-01-2009, 06:09 PM

Yeah its cranking good. And when the battery is low it clicks so that sounds like a good starter right. Plugs look good. Can it be my fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or starter relay?

tomorrow im going to spray some lighter fluid into the cylinders to see if that will start it up. i may do a compression test to see if the plugs pop up. i mght swap out some sensors with my cousins DSM to see if those are the problem..

Ok its getting compression. I put some lighter fluid into the cylinders but no start. Its gwtting spark because i see smoke and it pops up. Can it be sensors that are at fault?

boosteclipse · 11-03-2009, 12:01 AM

Pull the fuel line,angle it into a container,and cycle the pump. This will let you know if you are getting any fuel pressure. I am not understanding how you checked for spark. Pull a plug at a time, put it back into plug wire and lay on manifold(if not hot),have a buddy whirl the car over. If it is getting spark you will see it.

tkhaab_94 · 11-03-2009, 09:24 AM

Yeah thats how i checked for spark, and i do have spark on all four of them. I pulled the fuel rail and there was gas in it. Still not starting but yesterday night i messed with the coolant temp sensor plug and tried to start it again, it almost started but it just went on to crank. You think its my ecu thats bad?

JStrateger · 11-03-2009, 09:31 AM

This might sound a little too obvious but check all your IC pipes, make sure none of them popped off and all the couplers are tight. That might of been the sound you heard.

tkhaab_94 · 11-03-2009, 09:52 AM

Hmm that might be the problem but it came off last time too but it still started and the idle was jumpy. After that it just wouldnt start any more so i saw that the coupler was off and i clamped it on and it started. Im going to check that out later. Any other suggestions?

nyTalonTsi · 11-03-2009, 10:14 AM

Is it throwing any codes?

tkhaab_94 · 11-03-2009, 11:22 AM

nope the CEL isnt on. and IC pipes are good. cant start it right now because i lost one o ring for the fuel injectors. just ordered a new set on express shipping should be here in a day or two.

BleedingSilver · 11-03-2009, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tkhaab_94

nope the CEL isnt on. and IC pipes are good. cant start it right now because i lost one o ring for the fuel injectors. just ordered a new set on express shipping should be here in a day or two.

Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key to accesory? The check engine light should illuminate for a few seconds and then go out If this light is not coming on for the bulb check then you need to find out why that light is not coming on. Make sure while cranking that the tach is reading about 200rpm. You have spark and fuel so as long as the tach is reading then the crank sensor is good. If it was no spark/fuel I would suspect a crank sensor.

On 1g's when the check engine light does not come one and the boost gauge does not read at zero then the ecu is 99% the culprit. The same should be true for 2g's however I'm not sure about the boost gauge on 2g's.

tkhaab_94 · 11-03-2009, 11:43 AM

yeah CEL does come on for a bit then it turns off. i dont know if the tach is reading any rpms. but sometimes my aftermarket boost gauge does move a little.
heres a video of how it sounds starting up. you can hear my exhaust popping. that sounds like its getting gas and spark. the battery got drained as i was cranking it, so it sounds slow at the last 2 cranks.

damn man im frustrated... i want to hear my baby run again.. what else can cause a DSM to not start?

JFZERO ECLIPSE · 11-03-2009, 05:08 PM

I was driving my car and it just died...Got it home...I have a fuel pressure gauge and it reads 43psi where it should be for a 2g....But difference between your car and mine I had no spark...I checked both coil and transistor pack...good....ecu...good...Cam angle sensor...good...I was left with the Crank Position Sensor...no juice...changed out...car still wont start....battery junk...new battery fires right up...

you said yours only reads 25psi for fuel pressure...thats really low.....should be 43 psi

You need 3 things for combustion: Air, Fuel & Spark...99% of the time you can always have air....so that just leaves fuel and spark....again your fuel pressure is quite low.....Might need a new pump....Also just wondering you dont have an optima red top in there do you???I've had nothing but problems with them..not holding a charge etc switched to a standard battery voila car runs...

kneipperk · 11-03-2009, 06:55 PM

ok so the wires on my coolant temp sensor went out before and it was doing the same thing yours is, it just wouldnt start at all. i tore the boot apart on the sensor and stripped the wires and reconnected em and it started no problem. never even had to replace the sensor. also how did the starting fluid work out? when mine was doing it i could spray throttlebody cleaner in the tb elbow and it would start almost everytime and once it started it would stay running

tkhaab_94 · 11-03-2009, 06:56 PM

Nope. I dont use the redtop batteries. My fuel pressure gauge has always been reading 25psi.

Nope. I dont use the redtop batteries. My fuel pressure gauge has always been reading 25psi.

Switched batteries and ecu with a good working one but no start

poundcake · 11-03-2009, 08:04 PM

I had the exact same problem on my 1st gen. it would crank fine but not start. i had air fuel and spark. come to find out it was a coolant temp sensor located on the thermostat housing. i dont know if 2gs would have this problem but thats what it was. the wires apparently just fell off and when i soudered them back together it started up perfectly and has started fine ever since. it should be throwing a code but you said your cel doesnt come on.

nickblackgsx · 11-03-2009, 08:16 PM

Did you do a compression test? When did you have your timing belt changed? Maybe it jumped time or something like that. That happened to me, car drove fine, but next day it would crank over but no start. Happened to jump time when I turned the car off, luckily no nent valves. You could check your cam gear teeth to see if they are in line. Tryin to think it could be anything.

tkhaab_94 · 11-03-2009, 09:02 PM

well i just bought this car like a month and a half ago. the previous owner said he rebuilt the top head. and put on a new timing belt. im sure he did it correct. everything looks new. i didnt do a compression test yet because i dont have the tester. im going to cut the wire for the coolant temperature sensor and try to connect it to the sensor. its getting power though.

is the sensor the one with 2 wires or 1 wire going to it? because i see 2 sensors that are going into the thermostat. i cut the one with the one wire and wrapped it around the prong. and it gets about 9.73 volts. the one with 2 wires get 4.73 volt. are they all supposed to be around 12 volts?

poundcake · 11-03-2009, 09:34 PM

it should be the sensor with only 1 prong. haynes manual says the resistance should be:
32 *F = 5100 to 6500 ohms
86 *F = 2100 to 2700 ohms
104 *F = 900 to 1300 ohms
140 *F = 480 to 680 ohms
176 *F = 260 to 36 ohms

tkhaab_94 · 11-03-2009, 09:52 PM

is that in degrees Fahrenheit? is shoud be for the outside temperature right?

sh!t man i dont know what else to do. i might just turn it to the people at the shop..im going to be so pissed if it was just a small little problem...i always hate that when it happens to me...im worried that if my timing might of jumped and if it bent my valves...im hoping to the god of cars that it didnt do that and that i wish i can find out what the fvck is wrong with it. :'( :'(

Quote:

Originally Posted by kneipperk

ok so the wires on my coolant temp sensor went out before and it was doing the same thing yours is, it just wouldnt start at all. i tore the boot apart on the sensor and stripped the wires and reconnected em and it started no problem. never even had to replace the sensor. also how did the starting fluid work out? when mine was doing it i could spray throttlebody cleaner in the tb elbow and it would start almost everytime and once it started it would stay running

Well, I only tried lighter fluid and some wd40 no start. They are flammable, but I don't think starting fluid isn't that much different from lighter fluid..

dsmnthamakin · 11-03-2009, 10:35 PM

same exact problem on my brothers 95 tsi. pulled the head off and inspected everything, as far as the valves go and all the internals.. installed cam position sensor car fired right up he drove it home, about 50 miles . Went to start it the next day and it would not start. so tore it back apart to put in crank sensor because thats the only thing left after the diag. Will let you know this Sat. if it takes car of it.

tkhaab_94 · 11-04-2009, 12:12 AM

where is the cam position sensor? do you mean the throttle position sensor? and it didnt start before you put a new cam position sensor in it right?

poundcake · 11-04-2009, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by poundcake

it should be the sensor with only 1 prong. haynes manual says the resistance should be:
32 *F = 5100 to 6500 ohms
86 *F = 2100 to 2700 ohms
104 *F = 900 to 1300 ohms
140 *F = 480 to 680 ohms
176 *F = 260 to 36 ohms

this is in degrees fahrenheit. sorry about the astricks i didnt know what else to use lol.