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Learning the hard way

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TotalEclipse21

10+ Year Contributor
161
0
May 20, 2008
Conover, North Carolina
So I posted my problem as "Oil pressure problems" and I have found out why I had the problem. While driving down the road my car pooped out on me. So I pop the hood and I see the intake camshaft gear about an inch out of line from the exhaust gear, so I thought to myself :hmm: "thats not right."

Then I look even closer at the bolt and it looks as though I could turn it by hand and so I started to turn it:|,so I thought to myself :hmm: "thats not right."

Got it towed to my house and SLIPPED the cam gear off and what do find??? The dowel pin that connects to the cam is broke off inside of the gear. So I take off the valve cover and I found myself a little hint to my oil pressure problem and the ticking noise. One camshaft cap had bolts that I could losen by hand and the lifters beside of it were leaning sideways, I guess from the cam being able to lift up just enough for them to move out of place.

Had to get rest of the dowel pin drilled out from the cam and I called the dealership and it will be here tomorrow and it will cost me a whopping 60 cent. And I am praying that is the only thing that needs to be fixed.

Camshaft Cap Bolts- Outer ones=15lbs Center= 8lbs and go from the middle outwards
Camshaft Gear Bolts- 65lb
 
im sorry but if your intake cam was not moving and and out of time i will garuntee that you bent some valves i would throw the new pin on and time it, then do a compression and leak down test, you might be safe but these are interference motors and its a huge risk.
 
The timing belt was still on the gear. It was more of the gear was holding on the the cam for dear life. If it didn't bend valves or hurt the pistons, its because I was not accelerating i.e coming out of a turn and God just loves me that much. :)
 
So you "guesstimated" the torque specs on the cam caps!!:ohdamn: I'm willing to bet money the valves are bent. If the cam was loose enough to let the lifters come out then the pin probably broke off when the valves smacked the pistons. Take the head off and try again. hopefully you didn't crack the pistons.
 
This will be the 2nd time in like 2 weeks the head has been off the car. But I guess that the life of a DSM owner.
 
Not to sound like an ass but what did you expect was going to happen? Were you just like " oh these feel tight i guess they'll be ok"?? The torque specs are there for a reason as you've now learned the hard way. The 10 minutes you would have spent looking up the proper torque numbers could have saved you all this extra trouble and work. Not to mention the fact that you very may well have severely damaged your engine internals. If you take your time and do things the right way DSM's are very reliable cars. I put 12K a year on mine with hardly any problems what so ever. Like you are now, I have learned from my past mistakes but we won't discuss my screw ups:D.
 
you better hope that cam gear didn't move considering the pin keeps it from free spinning, if you didnt bend valves you will be really lucky, and im sorry but valves bent sitting at idle it dont matter if you are speeding up or slowing down the rotating assembly is still moving.
 
Ok so I put it all back together and did a compression test.(1)<60 (2)0 (3)~160 (4)0. Looks like i'm going to be digging into the engine again.BTW how much would valves cost around
 
Back when I had my 420a powered Neon a set of SS valves cost me about $220. This was years ago but the stock ones should be cheaper.You're going to have to have a machine shop look over it to make sure the guides and everything are okay too. I'd get the head off and check the pistons out before ordering anything. If they hit as hard as it sounds like they did then you have to be sure they aren't cracked. Get pictures of the tops of the pistons if you can. That way we can try to help you determine if they are cracked or just dented. The tops of my pistons have dents in them from the previous owner ignoring the t-belt services but have been fine for 6-7 years so far. How does the rest of the head look? Is the cam and valve train okay?
 
Well this kind of embarassing to say now but i'm going to college to be a mechanic....yup.... So I can take the head there and do the work myself and have ALL the tools I need to inspect and repair the head with. But I don't intend on dropping the engine so I will take picture of them and post them on here; when I do this should I start a new thread or post them on here?

The rest of the of the head looks good, not damaged, but I guess while I got everything apart and up there I could check the cams with a dial gauge.
 
Well this kind of embarassing to say now but i'm going to college to be a mechanic....yup.... So I can take the head there and do the work myself and have ALL the tools I need to inspect and repair the head with. But I don't intend on dropping the engine so I will take picture of them and post them on here; when I do this should I start a new thread or post them on here?

The rest of the of the head looks good, not damaged, but I guess while I got everything apart and up there I could check the cams with a dial gauge.


Just post this pictures in here. No sense in starting a new thread. If you have access to all he tools you need then that will save some big money as long as they are used properly. Just make sure to do like brassc2007 and check the head thoroughly. When valves bend, guides tend to crack so make sure they are okay.
 
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