High Rev at Start then stall!

[Sicotic]

I searched and read like 3 treads but none helped me, when i start my car it revs to 1500 Rpms for like 5-10 mins then goes to about 750, when i give it gas it alomost stalls but doesnt, then if i hold in the clutch and rev it will just die, need help i just got done with the car it is a 92 laser with a 2g head, could it be my vaccuum leak here is pics of what i plugged let me know if it is correct or i need to fix something and my EGR is not blocked i have 1 hose running to itis that bad and could cause this?

 

[Sicotic]

I was going by the Vac line setup but the pic is kinda of confusing, but i plugg these 4 vac lines that is right by he intake on the firewall, i dindt know if this would harm anything, bc my car is reving high and i press clutch and it dies any thoughts?

 

[Mr PopUps]

I was going by the Vac line setup but the pic is kinda of confusing, but i plugg these 4 vac lines that is right by he intake on the firewall, i dindt know if this would harm anything, bc my car is reving high and i press clutch and it dies any thoughts?

On a 1G, those 4 lines run all the way under the intake mani. If both sides arent plugged into something, then youll have a HUGE vacuum leak.

The FPR Solenoid is on the firewall along with 2 others by the brake booster.

 

[Sicotic]

I start my car it revs at 1500 rpms then when its all warmed up it just stays there, i press the clutch in and let off the gas it stalls. I read dmtalon's thing on ISC just wanting another opinion

 

[Sicotic]

i put caps on four lines are thoes it can i see pic orlink?

 

[Mr PopUps]

i put caps on four lines are thoes it can i see pic orlink?

I dont have one, sorry. I looked in the manual and its not clear enough to show both sides. As far as i can remember, you can pull all 4 vac lines off of the throttle body, and cap them there. For the FPR youll need one line from the manifold going to the bottom of the solenoid, and the top of the solenoid goes to the FPR on the fuel rail. The other lines are for the EGR and other emissions stuff, so dont do anything illegal...

 

[Sicotic]

ok well i capped all four and i have the line to the fuel rail going to the TB so i should reroute this or can u make a diagram?

 

[steve]

1G DSM Technical manual dtm
1G Engine/Chassis/Body 90-91ecb
1G Electrical 90-91el

 

[steve]

Maybe the ECU doesn't know that the throttle is closed and so doesn't know it needs to manage the idle speed. That's the first requirement, the second is a good ISC and a good ECU the third is that the BISS is correctly set and you don't have any intake leaks.

 

[MrBoxx]

Please do not bump your posts. When someone knows the answer, they'll post.

 

[Sicotic]

i checked my ISC they were all about 32 excapet one went from 39 down to 32 is that normal? and my bliss screw is destoryed how can i adjust it now?

 

[steve]

i checked my ISC they were all about 32 excapet one went from 39 down to 32 is that normal?

and my bliss screw is destoryed how can i adjust it now?

No it's not normal but may have been a measuring error.
Replace the BISS. Drill it and use a extractor if you have to or replace the throttle body worst case.

That still leaves the IPS, IPS ground, possibly the ISC, and ECU for the hardware and then there is the testing for intake leaks.

 

[Sicotic]

i thought i could just drill it.

 

[steve]

i thought i could just drill it.

And then do what? Drilling what, the BISS? How will that fix it.
Since you don't bother to explain how "bliss screw is destoryed" I gave you a range of options. Pick one.

 

[Sicotic]

so i can put somthing in there to turn it.

 

[steve]

so i can put somthing in there to turn it.

Like a ez-out or other type of extractor?

 

[Sicotic]

ya i broke somein the head thats why i swapped it..

 

[Sicotic]

2 of my fuel injectors tips have cracks in it, when i start my car it revs at 1500-2000 rpms then when it warms up it will go down and soon as i let of gas it stalls, could this be a leak? or could this be casuing it?

 

[Mr PopUps]

First off, does the car idle, or are you holding the gas down? Cause you keep saying as soon as i let off the gas it dies. If its idling, then you cant be pushing the gas pedal and vice versa.

 

[Sicotic]

when it starts up it idles bewteen 1500-2000 rpms but soon as i drive it for like 10 mins it will stall soon as i hit brake or press clutch in, it is haveing trouble idling after warm up i checked my ISC it was all at 32 ohms.

 

[Mr PopUps]

when it starts up it idles bewteen 1500-2000 rpms but soon as i drive it for like 10 mins it will stall soon as i hit brake or press clutch in, it is haveing trouble idling after warm up i checked my ISC it was all at 32 ohms.

What about the ISS (Idle Stop Switch). Its what adjusts your base idle, then you fine tune it with the ISC. Its the screw looking switch with a single green wire that the accelerator cable mechanism rests against.

Check it against ground: pull the wire off, use a voltmeter set to continuity, screw it out till continuity breaks, then turn it back, and then 1/4 turn past that point and tighten the lock nut down. That is per the factory manual.

 

[Sicotic]

can i see a pic or something that sounds confusing.

 

[Mr PopUps]

can i see a pic or something that sounds confusing.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[ToughTalon]

Have you checked for a vacuum leak and ran a boost pressure test to verify you dont have any leaks?

And if you don't understand what Mr.popups is say about checking continuity with a multimeter, continuity is typically zero Ohms or close to zero, it simply means there is an electrical connection.....when you set the meter to continuity it means Ohms, the symbol for Ohms looks like an upside down horseshoe....

 

[Sicotic]

What part of columbus u from tough? i live in columbus also, but anyways i understand all that but after i seen pic i know exactly what it is i made some videos of the car ill upload them.