Dodge mod BOV vs. Dejon Stop Leak for DD??

[tsi1991awd]

I had a couple questions on BOV's. What would be better on a DD? The Dodge Garage modded 1g, or the Dejon Stop Leak on a 1g?

I've read a couple things about flutter and such when running the 2nd nipple open on the Dodge mod, while under low boost.....as this is my DD, I will be running around town and whatever else. Wondering if the Stop Leak is better or....? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[tkelly27]

Talon BOV

The dejon kit is the dodge mod, with an extra valve. Adjustable boost switches go for $15 or so on ebay,
Boost Pressure Switch - For Turbo Water Injection hobbs:eBay Motors (item 230359457923 end time Jul-27-09 20:26:08 PDT)
and the solenoids are $5 or less at any junkyard you've ever been to. I always use the ones from turbo dodges, just because they are everywhere and are made to handle boost, but anything is fine. Whatever will you do with the extra $35 you would have spent at dejon?

RIP Gus!

 

[jdodds]

Whats wrong with your stock valve?

 

[Project90Talon]

The dodge modded and crushed BOVs don't usually flutter, not from my experience.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Mine's crushed and Dodge modded, but I use link to switch to normal operation under low throttle conditions using the fuel pressure solenoid. Works great! Thanks Gus. RIP

Ps. I did have some compressor barkring going on before I hooked up the solenoid.

 

[LandoAWD]

I had surge on a DG modded valve. I run two crushed 1g valves now without incident.

 

[tsi1991awd]

Nothing is "wrong" with my stock valve. It's holding up just fine for the moment. It is the coming months that has me trying to figure out what I'm going to do. As soon as I get my fuel pump and AFPR, time for DSMLink and I'll be cranking the boost up. Everything else is done and it handles 15psi wonderfully.

I have heard that with the 2nd nipple of the Dodge mod, the valve will open slow and if you connect the 2nd nipple to a boost source, it will open fast but will be just like you never did the mod at all. That kind of defeats the purpose. But I want something that will act like stock...when I'm driving around town, it opens normal and when I'm boosting 20+ psi, it holds boost like it should.

What's the best way to do it?

 

[tkelly27]

Did you read my post? You connect a solenoid that is open to atmosphere when you are at high boost so it won't leak, then switches to a pressure source when you are in low boost so it keeps the fast release function.

One time I blocked off the quick release hole on a car that never saw over 15psi. Got surge like a mofo, so I would not just leave it blocked off. I would definitely not crush it. You can fix a botched DG mod, you can't uncrush one if you don't like it.

 

[pboglio]

Dejon tool mod works good. But at part throttle it does whistle a bit. If you can handle that minor annoyance, it works great.

 

[tsi1991awd]

Did you read my post? You connect a solenoid that is open to atmosphere when you are at high boost so it won't leak, then switches to a pressure source when you are in low boost so it keeps the fast release function.

One time I blocked off the quick release hole on a car that never saw over 15psi. Got surge like a mofo, so I would not just leave it blocked off. I would definitely not crush it. You can fix a botched DG mod, you can't uncrush one if you don't like it.

Yes sir, I did read your post. What I meant was I can't access the page where Gus talked about how to hook up the switch (from the DG site)....so I was asking how I would hook it up.

 

[tkelly27]

Ohhh, didn't know that.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h309/tkelly27/modbov.gif

Wire the ground through the same toggle switch that you use to switch onto high boost. If you don't have a toggle switch for high-low boost levels, then supply the ground through a pressure switch set at 20 psi, and it'll go into the "leak-less" mode automatically as the boost goes past 20 psi.

You can use any type of switch that you desire; rpm switch, pressure switch, nitrous switch, or manual switch. as soon as the switch is on "low" again, the valve functions as stock; good for up to 20 psi.

 

[tsi1991awd]

Ohhh, didn't know that.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h309/tkelly27/modbov.gif

Wire the ground through the same toggle switch that you use to switch onto high boost. If you don't have a toggle switch for high-low boost levels, then supply the ground through a pressure switch set at 20 psi, and it'll go into the "leak-less" mode automatically as the boost goes past 20 psi.

You can use any type of switch that you desire; rpm switch, pressure switch, nitrous switch, or manual switch. as soon as the switch is on "low" again, the valve functions as stock; good for up to 20 psi.

OK, so please correct me if I am wrong:

-It looks like I drill a hole in the IC piping and run a vacuum line from the pipe to that boost solenoid. Then I use one nipple from the boost solenoid to connect to the NEW nipple on the BOV.

-The STOCK nipple on the BOV goes to the IM like normal.

-Then, I install a toggle switch on the dash or center console or wherever, run 12v to the switch, and run the ACC to the solenoid (gives solenoid power when switch is active). Of course, ground the switch and solenoid.

Is this correct?

 

[tkelly27]

Yup. You can also run a pressure switch, so it will do it automatically for you. So you set the boost switch for the pressure that your valve would normally leak at, lets say that is 15psi. Put the switch on an intake manifold pressure source, the ones I have are inline switches that I put on the BOV line and set it for 15. As you pass 15psi it will switch the solenoid which leaves the modded lower nipple open. When you come down under 15psi in the manifold it will switch to the standard quick release mode. If it is still not making sense I can draw a diagram when I am less tired.

 

[tsi1991awd]

Yup. You can also run a pressure switch, so it will do it automatically for you. So you set the boost switch for the pressure that your valve would normally leak at, lets say that is 15psi. Put the switch on an intake manifold pressure source, the ones I have are inline switches that I put on the BOV line and set it for 15. As you pass 15psi it will switch the solenoid which leaves the modded lower nipple open. When you come down under 15psi in the manifold it will switch to the standard quick release mode. If it is still not making sense I can draw a diagram when I am less tired.

So instead of connecting the solenoid to a toggle, do you just connect it to a constant 12v or what? The ebay link you posted - does it allow me to do like the diagram you posted (what i just described in my last post)?

 

[tkelly27]

Lets see if this works... it does, aren't my MSpaint skills breathtaking?

The Hobbs switch is a pressure switch. The ones I got off ebay are adjustable (I have 0-14psi and 14-30psi adjustable switches) that are both normally closed and normally open. I don't remember which one you would need, but if you use the solenoid from a turbo dodge (or most any 3 barb solenoids) it wouldn't matter because you can just switch nipples and have it work exactly the same. The 12v source is from something that comes on with the key.

My Hobbs switch had two barbs on it for inline use. If there is only one, a T fitting can just as easily be used.

The pressure switch is actuated by the pressure from the intake manifold. When it exceeds the amount that your bov leaks at it closes (or opens) the switch, causing the solenoid to switch from routing charge piping pressure to the DG port, to routing atmospheric pressure to the DG port making it not leak.

Pressure from the IM drops below the Hobbs switch set pressure, it does the opposite with the switch and the solenoid goes back to where it was and it is a fast opening valve again.

If you wanted to do this all junkyard style, there is a pressure switch inside a stock volvo boost gauge. This is their version of fuel cut and shuts down the ECU or the spark or something. It happens around 15psi, which would be just about right if you wanted to go junkyard hunting.

 

[tsi1991awd]

OK so if I am not using a Hobbs switch, and just using a toggle like your first diagram, what do I need to get? Obviously the pressure switch, but what do I look for (if I get it on ebay)? Dodge boost switch or???

 

[tkelly27]

The if you use a toggle switch, the other device is called a solenoid. I sent you a PM about it, but for anyone else who cares, there are a few under the hood of a stock DSM, and many to be found in a junkyard.

http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/bcs.htm

The stock DSM boost control solenoid is a 2 barb version, which won't work for this application. Look for a 3 barb version.

 

[enriquez2000]

So open nipple (vent to atmosphere)=hold more boost. Nipple connected to boost source=stock application?

 

[JusMX141]

Read and understand what the Dodge Garage Mod is as well as what it does, then you may not need to ask the same question in two different threads from 5+ years ago.

 

[enriquez2000]

Im getting conflicting info.. but i think i get it. Nipple open makes for slow release and higher boost. Attaching to boost source takes you back to stock