main and head bolts, and timing belt cover

[allidtaken]

first i cant find instructions to install the arp studs (head, and main), detailed and torque specs, i want to do the mainstuds one at a time because it already has stock main bolts in it. and second i cant find anything about the timing belt cover except a forum that no one answered, but i have a 6 bolt block a 2g head, and i have a parts car that is a 1g but is a 7 bolt, anyone know if this will work since they are both 1g? and will the timing marks be in the same spot? Thanks, Rick

 

[donniekak]

You can't do the mains without line honing the block.

 

[talondave]

The timing marks are the same! Im not sure on the arp specs but i do know that when you put arp main studs in, you will need it line bored!

 

[allidtaken]

i bought the shortblock with 5000 miles on it, he had it built as follows: crower I beams, ross pistons .20 over 8:3:1, ACL tri metal rod and main bearings, line honed, decked .20 over, hot tanked balance shaft elem. and polished crank, do i still need to get it honed?

 

[talondave]

Yes if arp studs was not installed at time of line honing, then you will need it line honed for the use of arp main studs

 

[allidtaken]

alright, from what ive read i dont think im going to have enough money to have enough horsepower to break them and if i do o well, im only looking at about 5 to 6 and im quitting at that, so i guess il just try to sell them (not an advertisement so no one ask with a pm from this forum) as far as the head goes i just looked in my haynes that i forgot that i had, and went with arp's torque specs, so thats solved, and thank you for answering about the timing belt cover.... any recommendations about how to get my crank pully off (the center bolt)? short of heat ive tried everything, should i just resort to heat?

 

[just90gs]

Ok. I torque arp's to 85-90lbs. The book tells you sequence in doing so but work your way 280. For example, 50-70-90. I have never had any issues doing that. Make sure you use the arp lube. The arp's only need to be hand tight in the block or 10lbs torque specs.

As for the main crank bolt. Soak it with some PB blast, hit it with an air gun or, if you can't do that and you still have the timing belts on, lock the two cam pullies together and use a breaker bar. You can lock the two cam pullies together more than one way. With the wrenches or a special tool you can borrow at any auto parts store. I would suggest the special tool from the auto store to make sure you don't hurt the cam gear bolts. Hopefully this helps!

 

[allidtaken]

i got the head on earlier, with moly lube, i only torqued to 80 for now, maybe keeping it there; ive seen soo many different specs most from 80 to 90. 8 of the studs went in with no problem but there were two pain in the ass ones to get in but i finally got em there.

the cams are on a car thats going to be in the junk yard in a few weeks so im not worried about that engine, i have an electric impact that wont break them loose and its a powerful one. i can try to lock the cams up but on the motor i am building is having the same issue, is there anyway to stop that one from turning?

 

[just90gs]

Yes thier are what looks like a nut on the cam you can lock the cam with a wrench I can remember if that is a 22 or bigger. I'm pretty sure it's bigger take ajustable wrench with you and a 17mm to break the cam gear off

If you have th oil pan off take a 1/2 about 6-9 inch put it in the way of the crank make sure it even well you do this. Then take a breaker bar and a pipe at least three feet long and see how that work for you it's not as bad as it sound's it take a lot of force to hurt that crank.

 

[allidtaken]

okay i will try that for the one that i am working on in my living room as for the one outside im not worried about it getting hurt, some lucky scrapper will have the privilege of cutting it up and hauling it all away..