The 97 GS-T project begins

[proteusx301]

I'm new to the forum, however I've been lurking around for about 4 months now, ever since i bought my car. I'm in no way new to working on cars, however this will be my first high performance engine rebuild. I've done many engine rebuilds for work, however they all used factory parts and by the book procedures, so they were mostly cake. I just basically wanted to get on here and lay my plans out on the floor and have some other people look at them, perhaps throw in some of their own ideas or recommendations. Any helpful information is always welcome.

The basic plan is that I'm shooting for between 350whp to 400whp for a daily driver. Engine management will be a EPROM 95 ECU with DSMLINK. I'm not the kind of person to do a job halfway, so someone tell me if im cutting corners somewhere.

ENGINE- donor motor is a 95-96 7-bolt
Block will be sripped bare and hot tanked
cylinders will be overhoned ten thousandths
deck machined flat
stock pistons and rods reused, havent decided on what kind of piston rings yet
clevite 77 rod and main bearings
ARP hardware kits will be used when applicable
balance shafts will be removed
cometic head gasket
ARP headstud kit
head will be hot tanked and cleaned
mating surface machined flat
3-angle valve job, using stock intake valves, and evo exhaust valves
port job
hks cams (havent decided on 264/272 or 272/272 yet)
all of this of course topped off with complete rebuild gasket sets
all new timing belt components
Evo III exhaust manifold
Evo III turbocharger
Evo III O2 housing
RRE 3 inch downpipe mated to a 3inch high flow cat, 3 inch cutout added to DP
Apexi N1 catback
225 lph fuel pump with rewire
STM tank-to rail fuel kit
STM return kit with FPR

All this will of course be supported by the appropriate engine management and monitoring gauges. I will be re-using my existing transmission, havent decided on a flywheel and clutch kit yet. Well thats basically it for now. Thanks in advance for any advice that is given.

 

[stevestevesteve]

welcome!!!!

post pics of it asap!

 

[rush2252]

Looks good. Glad to see somebody realize they dont need to spend a fortune on a bottom end to get to 400whp.

The only thing I didnt notice and maybe I overlooked is going to be the clutch. 5spds are notorious for being the weakest link in the drive train whenver you start uppping hp.

Other than that it looks great! Welcome to the site and Good Luck

Kolby

 

[proteusx301]

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A few of the pictures from working on Saturday. Got the engine off the pallet and onto the engine stand. Partiall torn down. Basically just the long block with the exhaust mani, and accessories now.

 

[kersed]

Welcome I would use stronger rods since your gonna run a turbo I suggest eagle rods there will withstand your hp goal with out a problem and they run about 300 a set so it won't break your wallet

 

[rock1t]

I want that cherry picker. It looks pretty bad ass

 

[proteusx301]

Welcome I would use stronger rods since your gonna run a turbo I suggest eagle rods there will withstand your hp goal with out a problem and they run about 300 a set so it won't break your wallet

The engine was already turbocharged, and from what I've been reading, the stock 7-bolt bottom ends have been able to hold well over 400 with proper tuning.

 

[stevestevesteve]

wow i want that whole garage. now i am embarrassed to work in my parents 2 car garage with a big bucket full of sockets.

 

[4g63turbo84]

nice keep us updated

 

[stevestevesteve]

yeah i hope everything goes well :]

 

[mitsu_gst97]

do alittle bit of reading on crank walk. only happens to lets say 1-2% of 7bolts. get new bearings that match the crank. (oem will do the trick) theres a color code that matches the oem crank to the oem bearing. (different cranks were machined to different specs, or maybe it was the bearing were missized.) but def look into it, its quite rare but would destroy your build. But looks like you have already done plenty of research. and it looks like its going to be a very nice build.

Mad props.

 

[proteusx301]

do alittle bit of reading on crank walk. only happens to lets say 1-2% of 7bolts. get new bearings that match the crank. (oem will do the trick) theres a color code that matches the oem crank to the oem bearing. (different cranks were machined to different specs, or maybe it was the bearing were missized.) but def look into it, its quite rare but would destroy your build. But looks like you have already done plenty of research. and it looks like its going to be a very nice build.

Mad props.

Yeah, I've gathered that crankwalk is made to look more common than it actually is. Regardless I'm going to be using Clevite 77 bearings for the crank and rods, plastigauging them to bearing match to the crank.

 

[proteusx301]

Got a little more work done today, when I had some time between customer cars. Removed the alternator and PS pump. Pulled the balancer and timing cover, and the valve cover for inspection. Still havent taken the exhaust manifold off, I have a feeling i'm going to end up breaking all the studs. Was planning to install a SS stud kit, so its not a huge deal.

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One problem that I am forseeing is the factory engine oil cooler. It has the two coolant lines running to it. I want to run a forward facing filter housing without a built in cooler. Then duct out to a liquid to air cooler tucked into the driver's fenderwell. What have you guys done in the past? Run a recirc hose between the two coolant hardlines?

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[DSMunknown]

If you're going to rip into the block, you may want to look into the Evo piston/rod swap.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ven...wesome-evo-9-pistons-frankenstien-6-bolt.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/311850-any-2gs-evo-pistons.html

 

[woodnbronze24]

Sweet man. I wish I had a pad like that to work in!

 

[proteusx301]

Head is off and ready for machine shop. Block teardown is tomm or possibly thurs, depending on how buisy I am.

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In response to DSMunknown; I am giving the evo rod/piston swap serious though. If i see a lightly used set come up, I will probably grab them. Still hunting for a set of stock evo 8 or 9 valves.

 

[rush2252]

The car looks great as well! Sleeper FTW. I wish mine had looked that good with motor issues. Twisting wrenches over body work and painting anyday

Looks good. What dealership do you work for? I noticed the patrol cars on the lifts in the background

 

[proteusx301]

The car looks great as well! Sleeper FTW. I wish mine had looked that good with motor issues. Twisting wrenches over body work and painting anyday

Looks good. What dealership do you work for? I noticed the patrol cars on the lifts in the background

I work for a Ford dealership right now. We do warranty work on the police fleets of the 4 towns around us.

 

[srpjosh]

If I could recommend a few parts changes. When you do the gaskets I'd recommend OEM gaskets. They are unrivaled in my opinion. The triple-metal head gasket from Mitsubishi is well capable of doing it's job and is reletively inexpensive. I'd also recommend the 264/272 cams as they are less agressive and will be a better daily driver cam setup. Use a better rod. Personal preference is Manley, however other cheaper options are available. Use OEM piston rings with OEM pistons. Since you wanted to reuse those. Other than that sounds like a fun build. Keep the pictures coming.

 

[95eclipser]

hey man looking good... enjoy doing every min of cause keep us posted and do consider the evo8-9 pistons bro

gl

 

[proteusx301]

If I could recommend a few parts changes. When you do the gaskets I'd recommend OEM gaskets. They are unrivaled in my opinion. The triple-metal head gasket from Mitsubishi is well capable of doing it's job and is reletively inexpensive. I'd also recommend the 264/272 cams as they are less agressive and will be a better daily driver cam setup. Use a better rod. Personal preference is Manley, however other cheaper options are available. Use OEM piston rings with OEM pistons. Since you wanted to reuse those. Other than that sounds like a fun build. Keep the pictures coming.

Are the rods that much of a weak link in the 7-bolt bottom end? I was planning to install a ARP rod stud kit and leave the pistons and rods mostly alone.

 

[rush2252]

no... you dont need to spend the money on aftermarket for your goal.

 

[proteusx301]

I've been reading about the fact that there are two different types of piston rings for 7-bolt pistons. Can the number located on the dome of the piston be used to indicate if I have the 2.8mm ring land, or the 3mm ring land? I havent been able to get a straigh answer out of existing posts.

 

[kevbojunior]

you should be plenty fine with the stock rods with upgraded hardware and bearings, depending on how well you build it too. also the tune when its all done will make a world of difference. their is plenty of guys on here running well in the 11's with over 400whp as a daily driver with no issues. im also in the process of building back up my 99 gst and im using evo 9 rods and pistons.

 

[DSMunknown]

EVO Sodium Filled Exhaust Valves


Very pricey if picked up new. At that price you can get yourself a new Crower or BC set at a (noticably) lower cost. Absolutely contact well known Evo vendors and see if they have spare sets lying around from past projects (either their own or customers') that they will let go for cheap.