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2g 14b install

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Dsm2Nv

15+ Year Contributor
183
7
Dec 27, 2007
toronto, ON, Canada
So my buddy is installing a 14b in his 2g 7 bolt t25 i just wanted to know what do we realy need to get we have the j pipe already is there anything else what has to be bought to make this install work?
 
L pipe from J pipe to SMIC
Couplers from J pipe to L pipe and L pipe to SMIC
Gasket for turbo to manifold
New oil line to turbo
New oil lreturn line (or cut your old one, attach some hose to length it)
Crush washers

That's about it from off the top of my head.

d
 
the above list plus:
-turbo to j pipe gasket
-oil return gaskets
-pb blaster
 
Yeah you'll have to get a j-pipe. I'm using the one that came stock on 1g's and it's not the most effective way to do it but it works. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions I did this swap fairly recently.
 
good luck , let me know if you feel any different because i just did a swap from t25 to 14b but im not driving the car yet,,, suspended license LOL
 
ok so not to thread jack but i was searching and didnt want to create a new thread when there was one that was pretty recent, when installing a 14b into a 2g can i use a 16g install kit if i dont have any of the components? also can the oil feedline be from the oil filter housing or does it have to be from the head?
 
Read my thread the Myths about the 16g swap.. or something to that effect I cover EVERYTHING your asking...

Run the oil feed from the Head. WHY? Bc thats what MITSU recommends. If you buy the OEM line there is a restrictor built it. Whenver you remove the T25 oilfeed line from the OFH just use a 3/8NPT brass plug. The actual threads are a 3/8BPT not gonna find these anywhere locally. I used the NPT and as longs as its brass your good to go. The brass is soft enough it wont do any damage and still seals correctly.


You can use the oil return line from the T25 DO NOT however use a rubber hose. Heat fromt the exhaust over time will Eff the rubber up. Whenever you mount the return line to the turbo you will have to widen the holes. Youll see what I mean whenever you test fit it.

Make sure to use new crush washers make sure you dont dry start the turbo. Also dont bend the return line or put it in a bind. These things are fragile especially if your not replacing it. They will crack and leak. Use rtv on the threads of the return line at the pan. It will leak regadless of how clean you get it with a new gasket. Trust me.


I just did the tdo5 swap on my 2g. Careful planning and lots of reading helped me. So far its been a few weeks no leaks no problems to speak of.

I would also recommend replacing the Domed Washers on the turbo mounting bolts or just buying to OEM bolt kit it comes with them. Also try using copper spray a gasket on your gaskets this will help ensure a good seal.

Good Luck
Kolby


Your last question can be answered along with illustrations under the thread "dos and donts of 14b swap" by DSMhottie it shows the location of the bolt. Its on the passenger side from of the head next to the upper radiator hose inlet/waterneck it has a 17mm head with a single crush washer. Remove it and buy the OEM banjo bolt for the oil feed
 
how do i avoid dry starting the turbo? the crush washers are for the water lines right?

for the copper spray gasket should that be used on all gaskets or just the o2 gasket and turbo to manifold?
 
how do i avoid dry starting the turbo? the crush washers are for the water lines right?

for the copper spray gasket should that be used on all gaskets or just the o2 gasket and turbo to manifold?


By priming oil through the turbo. Crank the motor with out it actually starting, pull all

plug wires. And yeah spray the copper gasket on all the gaskets for a good seal. Kolby

pretty much summed it all up perfectly.
 
okay so i get it for the most part, only things that have me stumped are the coolant lines? bending them? i saw in the 16g swap myth thing by kolby that one of the guys used 3/8 fuel line?how does that work? also the return line? how do i widen the holes? can i just buy an after market line or maybe a 1g line? and about slotting the coolant return line? i'm not sure i understand. i dont wanna make any mistakes here...
 
The water lines from the T25 can be used you might have to bed them slightly. You can reuse the lines just might have to replace the rubber hose 3/8 line. If your going to use the return line you'll need to widen the holes or slot them and use a bolt with a larger head. You can find them at Oreillys autozone etc.

They have the same thread size with a 12mm head to help seal whenever you widen the holes. Where the return line bolts to the T25 it has a wider spacing from bolt to bolt. The 14b has the same size from bolt to bolt as the send on the oil pan.

The crush washers are used two per banjo fitting. Youll need 4 total for the coolant lines and 4 total for the oil feed. The water lines are not modified only bent. The use a larger banjo fitting


Kolby
 
The water lines from the T25 can be used you might have to bed them slightly. You can reuse the lines just might have to replace the rubber hose 3/8 line. If your going to use the return line you'll need to widen the holes or slot them and use a bolt with a larger head. You can find them at Oreillys autozone etc. They have the same thread size with a 12mm head to help seal whenever you widen the holes. Where the return line bolts to the T25 it has a wider spacing from bolt to bolt. The 14b has the same size from bolt to bolt as the send on the oil pan.


Kolby

the holes on the bolt or on the turbo? (im really not understanding this part)
 
there is a two bolt flange on the return line. Crawl under the car and examine where the return line goes into the front of the oil pan. The spacing for example we will say is 2.5inches from center of bolt hole to center of bolt hole. On the topside where it mounts to the turbo the gap is approx 2.75in you have to slot the holes so that you can mount the return line to the turbo. I wouldnt worry about it until you have the pieces in hand it will make ALOT more sense when you see it. ROFLROFLROFL


Kolby
 
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