Stroker Side Loading

[Ahsieh2]

I have just torn down my motor. When I bought the car it was a 2.3 stroker but since I have heard lots about the odd rod angles and the side loading forces that the motor is subjected to. Now I am unsure whether or not I want to keep this motor a stroker. I have already bought a 100mm Eagle 4340 crankshaft as a replacement but I think I might want to sell it based on what I have seen. I guess my question is "Is this amount of wear normal or is it the result of hard driving by the previous owner?" I have never revved the motor past 6000RPM and would likely set that as my rev limit upon my rebuild. Thanks All.
Oh, I also have included some pictures of my destroyed bearings. I don't know what caused it but once one of them went I think it took some others with it.

Crankshaft

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Center Journal Scoring

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Main Cap Bearings

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Main Cap Bearings 2 & 3

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Main Bearings

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Center (3) Main Bearing

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Rod Cap Bearings

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Rod Bearings

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Pistons (notice the scoring on the skirts)

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Pistons (again with the scoring)

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Cyl. 1

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Cyl 2

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Cyl 3

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Cyl 4

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Cyl 4

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Cyl 3

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Cyl 2

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Cyl 1

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[Ahsieh2]

Come on guys, no one can tell me if this is "normal" wear? I need to know what I'm doing before I go any further.

 

[nuclearr]

I dont know if its normal for a stroker but I ventur to say its not "nomal". Some of those bearings are Fragged bad and the wear on the cylindersis not normal unless it was buil wrong or with cheap parts looks like you need a total build.

The crank is probably going to need to be turned wich I do not recomend for our cars especially a stroker. You need to have the block checked and see if it needs to be boared it at least need to be honed with a lead ball hone.

Also looke like at least #4 cylinder has a broked oil squirter I cant see #1. May ecxplain some of the wear in your pics on the cylinder walls.

 

[TunaTalon]

With a properly built stroker side loading can eventually wear the bores into ovals but not with such obvious scoring.

If the problem was from design flaws then the wear would be the same or similar on all four cylinders, but one bore is worn much worse then the others.

And nulcearr is right, at least one oil squirter is missing.

The bearing carnage is more consistent with oil starvation. How does the oil pump look?

I want to believe that if that was normal for stroker motors then no one would use them.

For more information about the relationship between rod angle and side loading please see http://www.kidzuku.com/StrokeOrNot.pdf. That document will also help with the decision about rev limits.

 

[Ahsieh2]

Thanks for the feedback guys. FYI, yes, #4's oil squirter is broken I found it in the oil pan when I removed it. I do intend to Bore the block if necessary. I have new 100mm 4340 Forged Eagle crankshaft ready to go in and the rods are reusable. The bearings were likely chewed up when the material on Cyl. 1 & 4's skirts got into the oil. That's my thought since metal in the oil will not destroy skirts, metal in the oil will destroy bearings however. The crank in there will not be reused and if anyone is interested is for sale (don't forget the journal scoring). The oil pump was tip-top (well, as far as a used one is) and I had sufficient oil pressure (according to the stock gauge, I know, inaccurate, blah blah, but not that inaccurate). I just hope to hear from someone that has driven a stroker car and then torn down the block again. I don't want to make it a stroker if I can only get 30,000mi out of it (and that's a high estimate by what I've heard). I have a hx40 to bolt on and was looking to decrease the spool but risking the block is a bit rich for my blood. If I decide to go with the stock stroke I was thinking about using this "weightless crankshaft". I think the decrease in rotating assembly weight will help speed spool. Also, that page on stroking or not was excellent. Thanks guys, I'll have to think about this further.
Either way, this'll be a hell of a build. Maybe I'll go the 2.1 De-stroked. Then I'll have no torque but have a rev-limit around 10-11k and it'll rev like a sport bike if I use that crankshaft with a Fidanza flywheel.

 

[awddsm95]

What your seeing here is not at all normal for any engine. I would suggest that the engine had oiling issues and the person that owned the car previously spun the car to pretty high rpm, 8000+ with these oiling issues. I bet that the oil pump was replaced before you got the car if you are sure that it is "good". With this kind of bearing failure, the oil pump would most likely have been trashed.

There are numerous 2.3L's revving well above 8000 rpm without any of these issues, but I would say that most of those cars have better performing oil systems than stock. Good luck with your build.

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

Just because you have a de-stroker doesnt mean you can rev to the moon. All it means is that your BOTTOM END can take the stress. How do you know your top end can take it.

 

[boostedorbusted]

i would def say that is not normal wear that thing is JACKED up. i would build a 2.0 . (just my opinion)

 

[SBR Joe]

Did you check to see if needed line bored with the ARP main studs? Sometimes they need to be, and that would explain the extreme wear on the bearings.


Joe
SBR

 

[EGuenther]

Keep the Eagle crank and find a 2.4 block(4g64, g4cs). You can use the rods but you'll need pistons, which you already do any way. This way you don't have to deal with the arguably poor design of the oil ring on the stroker pistons. Plus it's bigger, yay displacement!! BTW I have a stroker too.