LC-1 Problems

[knochgoon24]

I finally got around to installing my LC-1 and I can't get it to output correctly. I can connect to it with my laptop. It's just not my gauge jumping around like I thought. Here's a picture of my log file.

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It just jumps all around on me every time I blip the throttle. Straight from 20.9 %o2 (with the car running?) to <7.4 AFR just by blipping the throttle. It doesn't make sense.

If the base free air calibration was off, you'd expect it to consistently read too high or too low, right?

I'm pretty sure it's wired in correctly. I tested the grounds and they are all good. Every ground is a clean chassis ground. I even used a bit of electrical grease to see if that'd help and to prevent corrosion. The power is from the cigarette lighter and that voltage stays high enough.

The only output I have anything attached to is output 2, and that's my Innovate DB gauge. Output 1 is taped off and isn't touching anything.

The unit is able to store the programmed information on it correctly. I'm getting no error codes. I bought this used from someone so maybe it was broken before I even got it.

Any insight will be appreciated.

 

[crimsondragon]

I would try connecting the gauge to it as well and see if you get the same results. It would narrow down to what is wrong. It might be the sensor completely bad. That's my guess. It looks like you're at 20 ish AFR when at idle. Any exhaust leaks as well?

 

[knochgoon24]

The gauge displays the same results. I have a second sensor that I had in it before. I'll try to swap it in tomorrow and see if that makes a difference.

My exhaust manifold has a few small cracks, but I don't think those are throwing it off that badly. I don't think they are big enough to throw it off to that extreme. It's reading 20.9% o2, or basically pure air.

The o2 housing to downpipe gasket might be leaking. It was a cheap one that came with an ebay downpipe.

The weirdest part is that it jumps from one extreme to another with no readings in between. If it was just an exhaust leak letting in air, wouldn't it read lean and only lean?

 

[yokotabrat]

Mine did this about 100 miles after initial installation. I ended up moving the ground for the LC-1 to the same place as the ecu ground and ran a ground wire from that point to the top of the intake manifold to get the grounds similar to what they describe in the instructions.

I then took out the sensor and followed the instructions for a free air calibration and that fixed my problem.

Are you getting any errors from the diagnostic led? If not and as long as it shows that the sensor it heating up properly, I'd try the ground and calibration.

 

[knochgoon24]

I get no errors and the sensor does heat up. I felt that during the initial free air calibration. I have some extra 10 gauge wire from the fuel pump rewire. I might have to mess with some of that and see.

I did test the grounds I used with a voltage tester and found negligible resistance (< 1 or 2 ohms) between my grounding points and the block.

I bought the LC-1 used, so maybe it was sent to me with problems...

 

[snowborder714]

Are your blue and white wires grounded using the same lug?

 

[knochgoon24]

Yes, the blue and white wires are connected at the same lug. They are actually crimped and soldiered to that connector. I just tested the resistance between that and the ground point on the intake mani and it read 0 ohms, so that ground is solid. The LC-1 uses about 1A while the heater heats the o2 sensor. Maybe that point just can't ground the full amperage? The metal is nice and clean under that bolt head.

Here's a pic of it wired up. Sorry, cell phone pic.

 

[crimsondragon]

For the record, I have poorly placed grounds and it runs fine on mine. Definitely replace the sensor. If it doesn't work, then you'll just have to assume the control unit is dead. Send it to Innovate for them to fix it.

 

[tenn-gsx]

I have had my free air calibration out of whack before. It showed completely lean until I touched the throttle and then it wen full rich. Try calibrating it before you spend any money on it. By the way you can do a fee air calibration by getting on the highway at about 70-80 mph. With the car in gear and your foot to the floor, shut off the engine leaving the key in the acc position so you dont lock up the steeringwheel. Let the car coast to about 16 mph while still in gear WITH YOUR FOOT TO THE FLOOR. Then take the car out of gear and stop on the side of the road. Turn the key back to the run position but DO NOT START THE CAR YET! Now do the free air calibration and see if you get better readings. By shutting off the car and putting the pedal to the floor using the tranny to keep the engine turning it flushes the cylinders and exhaust with fresh air.

 

[knochgoon24]

I just got my car back from inspection and I have to replace both front lower control arms, the passenger side wheel bearing (and axle because it's stuck) and the mani to turbo gasket. I guess it was leaking more than I thought. So I'll be under the car later this week to work on it anyways.

I hate inspections. Every year it's more and more drivetrain/suspension parts. But what can you expect with 216,000 miles on the car. This is the 3rd wheel bearing.

 

[beyondspexj]

ive had to recalibrate mine 3 or 4 times before it read correctly.

 

[knochgoon24]

ive had to recalibrate mine 3 or 4 times before it read correctly.

Wow, that makes me confident in the readings...

 

[crimsondragon]

I calibrated mine once and it worked fine...

 

[snowborder714]

I've never had to calibrate mine more than once or twice in a row to have it read fine. But I also went through 2 LC-1 units before getting a 3rd that worked correctly.

 

[We're on Boost]

You guys with LC-1's, where are you mounting it?
I've been thinking about buying one with G4 gage. I talked to Innovate tech support last week, they told me the wire from the sensor to the LC-1 is only 20" long. They also told me the LC-1 should be mounted nowhere near the turbo or anything else hot, should be mounted low so as to be in cooler air. Well my bung is in the downpipe about a foot below the O2 housing flange. They said the wire is short to minimize electro-magnetic interference. Anyway, I looked around for a spot that I could reach with a 20" wire run and wasn't very happy about it. So I'm wondering where you guys have put it.

Gary

 

[yokotabrat]

I've got mine inside the car near the center console by my feet on the drivers side. There are holes in the floorboard under the carpet that can be opened up by removing the rubber plugs. Unfortunately, they aren't big enough for the connector to fit through, but the sensor fits through just fine. My WB bung is placed toward the end of the downpipe so that the sensor reaches.

 

[We're on Boost]

Well that's good to know that there are holes in the floor. I've been poking around in that area a little but didn't notice the holes yet.

Gary

 

[crimsondragon]

I have the DB gauge mounted on the A pillar, powered by the ignition wire, grounded underneath the dash. The gauge lines run underneath my carpet to the LC-1 controller unit which is underneath my seat. The sensor I routed through the grommet of the floor where the rear O2 sensor goes through. Covered the hole with duct tape for weatherproof sealing.

 

[knochgoon24]

I have my LC-1 strapped next to the power steering reservoir. The DB gauge isn't too bad.

I did get my LC-1 to read correctly, but I can't get the gauge to read the same as the LC-1. Probably a bad connection some where. The settings are correct in the LM Programmer. I ended up having to change the fuel type, then recalibrate it, then change it back to gas, and recalibrate it again. (As per Innovate instructions when I filed for a RMA).

 

[crimsondragon]

You put the controller in the engine bay? Why? I would never mount anything electrical as delicate as the LC-1 so close to the engine. Too much vibration, noise, and interference. Plus, if you're routing the sensor like you're suppose to at either the rear O2 sensor or somwhere along those lengths, it be more wise to put it say, near the seat.

 

[knochgoon24]

I was told to put it in front of the flex section. (Then any possible flex section leaks won't affect the readings.) From there, I had no safe way to route it back then inside the car. The o2 sensor lead isn't long enough to get the LC-1 under the seat. It's fairly well protected where it is. There isn't anything electrical around it. Where it's at it stays pretty clean. It's not mounted on the engine, so there really isn't much more vibration than inside the car. I wouldn't call it a prime spot for it, but it isn't horrible.

I couldn't use the rear o2 sensor location. I still have a cat. I should probably just extend the wires on the o2 sensor, but figured I'd see how this location worked first.

I don't see where any electrical interference or noise would come from. It's fairly isolated where it's at.

 

[snowborder714]

I have mine mounted in the engine bay with no problems. I believe it is now at the bottom of the firewall under the brake fluid reservoir. I think I zip tied it to a hard line or something. I previously had it velcro'd to the shock tower, but the velcro wasn't strong enough.