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Jacie

10+ Year Contributor
49
0
Oct 3, 2008
North Ridgeville, Ohio
Alright, I have this problem. I need to pass echeck to get plates(it sucks living in lorain county) but, the thing is Im not 100% sure what the problem is. I went up to conrads and they said they will charge me 90$ to take and look at it and find out what is wroung and even then they won't know 100% on top of that fixing it and what not.... I found that to be alittle expensive. I wanted to know if there was someone in the area that would care to give me a hand on this. I would be more then happy to pay them to find out and help me fix it and teach me a few things.
 
Yeah, Im going to take it up there this week. Lucky its only like 2 secounds from my house becuase driving on expired temp tags wont work LOL
 
I live in Strongsville which is not too terribly far from you. If you find out what the light is maybe I can help you more? It's only about a 25(?) minute drive to your place from here. I have pretty good luck figuring out CEL problems. I've probably received more tehn 50% of the codes possible, for better or worse haha.


Also, do you happen to work at a Gamestop/EB? Judging by your occupation in your profile it looks like you do. I work at a Gamestop out here in Strongsville as well!
 
Sorry about the late code post....
The codes I have are
p0403
p0420
p0443
p0505
p1105

The car runs fine though, I have a buddy that said the alitnator might be causing all of it becuase When i do turn the lights on or what ever you cn hear it dog down... if that's the probelm, how much is that to replace?
 
Sorry about the late code post....
The codes I have are
p0403 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction
p0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
p0443 - Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve circuit Malfunction
p0505 - Idle Control System Malfunction
p1105 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Malfunction

The car runs fine though, I have a buddy that said the alitnator might be causing all of it becuase When i do turn the lights on or what ever you cn hear it dog down... if that's the probelm, how much is that to replace?
Codes inserted above.
1. EGR failure
2. O2 sensor #1
3. Unknown
4. ICS sensor
5. MAP sensor.

Any of these things been fixed and these are old codes?
 
none have been fixed... I don't even know where to start or how much it could run me....
 
Sorry about the late code post....
The codes I have are
p0403
p0420
p0443
p0505
p1105

The car runs fine though, I have a buddy that said the alitnator might be causing all of it becuase When i do turn the lights on or what ever you cn hear it dog down... if that's the probelm, how much is that to replace?

No none of your problems are from the alternator.

p0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
^^This one sounds like NO cat....do you have a catalytic converter on the exhaust?
 
unplug the battery when you pull in to get your tags and the check engine light turns off for a good while if you dont have money to fix it
ive done it before and passed
haha
 
well i live in louisiana
that sucks for him
well he could always go to the junkyard and get the 02 sensor and ics pretty cheap
 
none have been fixed... I don't even know where to start or how much it could run me....
What I'm asking is has the ECU been reset? These could be old, stored codes from a previous problem, and the ECU was never reset.
No none of your problems are from the alternator.

p0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
^^This one sounds like NO cat....do you have a catalytic converter on the exhaust?
Possible, I only said O2 as it's the only CEL I've ever seen that has a "Bank 1".
No they will fail it in Ohio if you do that. They can tell the ECU has been reset.
And how exactly can they tell your ECU has been reset? With an OBD2 car, you can choose the ECU test, or the tailpipe test. Or at least you could until it was eliminated in Hamilton County.
 
And how exactly can they tell your ECU has been reset? With an OBD2 car, you can choose the ECU test, or the tailpipe test. Or at least you could until it was eliminated in Hamilton County.

I dont know but they can tell the data was cleared somehow...I have tried to clear codes right befor going in to E-check and they Know what I did. After that the the next option is getting on the rollers...but since I am AWD they couldn't do that either. so they put some bag on my dash and revved the engine to 2500 rpm:confused:

Chances are if he has all those CEL's on he isn't going to pas anykind of emissions test.
 
No none of your problems are from the alternator.

p0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
^^This one sounds like NO cat....do you have a catalytic converter on the exhaust?

I don't have a cat.... and I reset the battery and all these codes came up
 
First of all, you NEED a Cat in our area for them to even look at the car. One of the first things they do is put a mirror under the car to look for it.

The codes I have are
p0403 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction
p0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
p0443 - Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve circuit Malfunction
p0505 - Idle Control System Malfunction
p1105 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Malfunction

--
From the look of all those codes you have, i would think the car got turned over with sensors plugged into it. If they all are " Bad " you have quite an expensive problem on your hands.

1. Since it says circuit i dont know if that would be the EGR valve itself or the lines running to it.
2. You have no cat.
3. Evap emission codes like that can be many things, from a bad gascap to a vent leak.
4. Not sure on this one.
5. Map sensor is either unpluged or bad.

---

I would recomend you find someone with an obd2 scanner or just reset the ECU by leaveing the battery disconected for 15-20 mins. After a couple days of driving check your codes again. As for your temp tag issue, take the failed echeck paper to the BMV and show them it, tell them you need a temp tag to take the car from point a to point b to get it serviced.


Rockauto.com Prices
----
EGR

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # EGV640 {VALVE WITH GASKET}

$68.89 $0.00 $68.89

-
MAP

AIRTEX Part # 5S2395
(Turbo)

$113.79 $0.00 $113.79

-
Idel Air valve

AIRTEX Part # 2H1098
(Turbo)
* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days

$82.79 $0.00 $82.79


Like what was mentioned before, Go get a cat put on the car ASAP. Clear your codes with an OBD2 reader or Batery disconect. After that, then start checking for codes again before replacing any more hard parts.
 
Being that everything says CIRCUT Malfunction, leads me to believe you have an electrical problem. Did the car have an AFC that someone took out?? Maybe they hacked the ECU wires up?

Pull the plastic console side cover off. Its the piece to the right of your gas pedal. when you get that piece off you will see a buch of wires. Make sure these wires don't look cut or spliced.
 
And how exactly can they tell your ECU has been reset? With an OBD2 car, you can choose the ECU test, or the tailpipe test. Or at least you could until it was eliminated in Hamilton County.

They can tell by looking at the readiness monitors. There are certain conditions that have to be met before the ECU will determine if a particular sensor is functioning properly. They call these conditions "Drive Cycles". For example, this is the drive cycle for the Catylist Monitor:

Drive at 60mph for 10 seconds with a MAS frequency reading >200Hz. Then drive at 60mph for 50 seconds with a MAS frequency >100Hz. Release the accelerator pedal and reduce speed to 40mph for 2 minutes. During the 2 minutes, the following conditions must be met:

1. Idle switch = Off
2. RPM 2600 or less
3. MAS frequency between 70 & 140Hz

Repeat these steps up to 6 times for the first drive cycle.

Anyway, basically at the end of the drive cycle, the ECU determines if there is a problem. If everything looks good, the readiness monitor goes from "Not ready for testing" to "Ready". If there is a problem, the ECU trips the appropriate CEL for that drive cycle.

So finally, after my long winded post, if the ECU is reset, then all the monitors are reset to the "Not ready for testing" status. When they hook up your ECU to the emissions machine, it fails because none of the monitors are set.
 
Thank you for the info. Luckily I've never had to E-Check an OBD2 vehicle. Hopefully, I'll never have to E-Check one again as Hamilton County has eliminated the testing.

To the OP, I'm betting you have some hacked wiring or some such. An incorrect ECU perhaps?
 
Does someone live in the area that can help me out wiht a fews things, it will be very much appreciated.
 
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