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TOB replacment and wheels question

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Pring

15+ Year Contributor
50
0
Dec 20, 2007
Bristolville, Ohio
First I'd like to ask you guys if a clutch job an a 95 Eclipse is possibly in 4 days. I'm coming home for thanksgiving break and I' going to try and tackle it with my father over the break. We have a lift near buy so I was hoping that would be a big help. Also a buddy of mine said he had a set of wheels and tires from a 2001 eclipse he said I could have them for free if they fit my car. Any chance in hell they are gonna ? tHanks
 
The clutch is easily done in 4 days if you know how to turn a wrench, especially with a lift available. I don't think you should have any problems getting it done.

As for the wheels, they will fit fine.
 
Well friend i can do my turbo awd in one day if i start on it at like 10 an finish about ten with a nice lunch an a bunch of phone calls in between. So it depends on how motivated you are an whats wrong if the flywheel is shot it might have to be sent out also save all of your bolts in a bucket so your not running to the parts store for more.

Good luck:dsm:
 
man all kindsa good new thanks fella im more then happy .. But the wheels will fit for sure ?
 
Yeah a clutch job isnt that bad done mine tonnes of times, got down to a art. Off and on a half day, thats getting everything right and replaced. Good luck.
 
is there anything you guys recommend I take care of other then the Clutch while I replace the TOB.. ? while I have everything apart ?
 
Here's the list of things I made up to perform when doing my clutch job.

Clutch fork and pivot ball
Rear main seal
TOB and TOB Clip
Flywheel Bolts (may not be applicable to you since you're not taking the flywheel off unless you want to get it resurfaced)
 
Clutch fork and pivot ball
Rear main seal
TOB and TOB Clip
Flywheel Bolts (may not be applicable to you since you're not taking the flywheel off unless you want to get it resurfaced)
+1 but definitely get your flywheel surfaced. When I added my clutch, didn't replace the
Clutch fork and pivot ball and it wouldn't disengage =[ I even added a washer with the new parts and it was almost perfect after, only a turn and a half on the master rod. And loctite the pressure plate bolts too!
 
I'm in the midst of the clutch replacement procedure. I was wondering if I have to take the passenger side drive shaft out before removing the transaxle? Or will it just slide away? The car will be under the knife again tommorow so I hope one of you guys that has done this will have an idea.
 
i just did my old 95 n/a to days ago. it took me 4 hours to get it apart and about 5 to put back together. yes you should pull both drive shafts. it will make it alot easier. another thing is if you have the stock clutch in there, it is alot diferent then a afterrmarket. the pressure plate and clutch disk is one peice. and there is 4 bolts on the back of the flywheel holding it on. so if you go with anything other then OEM you have to get a aftermarket flywheel on there. one of my hardest things where picking it up because i didnt have a extra jack to pick it up. i ended up just going with a oem on the one i did because i sold it and that day it blew on him so i told him i would fix it. and yes for surre those wheels will fit. oh and there are 6 total bolts holding the tranny to the block. 2 on top 1 in front, 2 on bottom w/ brackets and on on the back behind the drive shaft(thats why you have to take it out, makes it go alot faster) i can give you step by step on what to do and how to do it if you want
 
i just did my AWD in about 9 hours. the only thing i always worry about is finding something damaged and can get the part for ever..

also loctice the preesure palte bolts
 
i have the oem clutch(all one piece) so I shouldnt' have to get a special flywheel correct ?
 
you have a new OEM to go into it? then no you wont need a new flywheel. you dont need a flywheel. i would recomend the parts that blazebolt said. and greese that TOB.

the way to do this is pull battery and battery pan aand bracket
there is plastic shields in the driverside wheel wel that have to go
pull starter (2 bolts) and unplug
pull slave cyl (2 bolts) keep conected plus one holding those line on the tranny
get drive shafts out(pry bar to pop it out) or some kind of puller
trans fluid will pour out
put jack under both motor and trans(or a table if you have a lift)
bottom cross member(2 bolts up front, 2 on the front motor mount, and 2 in back)
unplug 2 sensors (one on the back top, and one on the front top)
back motor mount(take off the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the tranny)
driver side motor mount(3 nuts on top)
then those 6 bolts holding the tranny to block(2 on top, 2 on bottom, one in front and one in back(back is the hardest to get to, be carefull under there.
then the tranny should come right off(make sure something is under it ### it will fall.
on the bluck side of the flywheel there is 4 bolts. you can only see one at a time. so take one off then turn the flywheel and so on.

when you put the new clutch on, those 4 bolts only line up one way but when you get them on torque them to about 80lbs with some locktite. you dont need a alignment tool because it is a one peice clutch.

TOB, is pull off and put back on, simple just dont hit the fork on knock it off when you are ttrying to put the tranny back on. (the clips suck bad) and put back together in the same order.

like i said i literally just did all of this 2 days ago.
 
I got the clutch out. When I was putting the new TOB on the for back on the ball it snapped one of the little clips off.. Does this mean I have to get a new TOB or can it go back together .. Other Oddness.. The old tob didn't seem messed up at all. Although it didn't slide out it fell out like it had fallen off the fork.. Just doesn't make sense why that woulda made so much chattering.. Anyhow, am I going to have to get a new TOB because of the little tab being broken?
 
i honestly dont know, if you dont then it might make the same chatering. anyone else have any input on this. remember he is putting a stock clutch and tob in. it dont have the normal "C" looking clip. it just has 2 little built in prongs on the outside of the TOB
 
really? nobody is aware of how to put this TOB in without breaking off these tabs they are flimsy as hell. Whats the trick ? can the bearing work without the tabs ?
 
well turns out we got another and the flimsy tab broke again so we just put it together hopefully it doesnt matter. it is stupid they would make a part so damn flimsy. I'll let you all know how it works tomorrow when i pick up my some tranny fluid and get her goin again.. Wish me luck.. Would have gotten another TOB but another 40 dollars just didn't sound good and i have to have the car ready to go tomorrow so who knows.
 
Put the car back together and had a hell of a time finding the right tranny fluid that the chiltons manual called for. Anyhow when I first started the car, nothing had changed the chattering was still occuring and I was doing a lot of head scratching. However, I drove the car home and stopped at a gas station, and the chattering hasnt' occured since. Im not sure that the fact that it might have had the right tranny fluid it in could have been causing the grinding and chattering. any ideas? Finally found out what the wop wop was.. the drive shafter on the passenger side was tweaked a little and it wasn't spinning properly probably going to attempt to fix that this week.
 
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