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1g Dsmlink Log Help

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eclipsetuner_21

15+ Year Contributor
106
0
Sep 16, 2006
Liberty, Missouri
I first would like to get my ltft lo set and my global and deadtime set correctly. I have afi 1000cc injectors just installed and I am running a gmmaf that is zeroed correctly. Also have a gm 3bar. I know I need a wideband and I am working on the cash for one...

Any help would be greatly appreciated....
 
Your TPS is close, but not perfect. You could adjust it a bit more to reach the .63 at idle.
dsmlinktpsadjustment [ECMTuning - wiki]

I think you need to move your 50Hz airflow slider +13.
http://www.jeffgst.com/gmafcalibration2.html

You can also do your rev and cruise tuning, using the above website.

Just curious why you added fuel from 4k RPM's and up. This shouldn't be necessary, seeing as the stock fuel map is pretty rich to begin with.
 
I added fuel to test my pump - long story -
I believe my problem to be my fuel pump, I installed my 255 and within 30 min my sock was SO clogged with rust it would not run. I have since pulled tank, cleaned and sealed and a rad shop, and installed a new sock. 3 months later I am having issues, new 255 is on the way along with -6an fittings for the sending unit so the pump will go directly to -6an and not stock hardline.

I will adjust my tps, I have it slightly open, like 1% because I eliminated fiav an isc and it just seems to idle better, I adjusted for it in dsmlink.

Thankyou i will make adjustments
 
I will adjust my tps, I have it slightly open, like 1% because I eliminated fiav an isc and it just seems to idle better, I adjusted for it in dsmlink.

Adjust tht tps with the car off. Then open dsmlink and check the box "simulate idlesw" that is in the tps section. Then it should idle better than stock, mine does. If it does not idle at what you have the idle set at, adjust the biss until it does. It needs to be adjusted out some anyway.

Do you have the side of the valve cover vented?
 
I added fuel to test my pump - long story -
I believe my problem to be my fuel pump, I installed my 255 and within 30 min my sock was SO clogged with rust it would not run. I have since pulled tank, cleaned and sealed and a rad shop, and installed a new sock. 3 months later I am having issues, new 255 is on the way along with -6an fittings for the sending unit so the pump will go directly to -6an and not stock hardline.

Don't drill into your sending unit for the AN lines. Unless you can find a way to get your fuel pump to properly seal with the fittings you put through there. I did it by drilling through and jb welding a fitting on to the sending unit with a nipple that runs into the stock feed hole but the problem with that is the o ring for the pump isn't sealing flush with the stock hole so the fuel is going through the pump and spraying back into the tank when it goes above 10% IDC's so if you do so be careful on how you do it so you don't have to pull it back out because I know mine is a PITA with the plastic screw cap.
 
Are you just looking for general advice? Or are you looking for help with something specific?

A real long log is hard to look at and analyze because there's just so much there. If you'd like help, please post up a log of something specific, such as an idle log, rev log, or cruise log. And I wouldn't try and tune WOT until you get a wideband.
 
Well lets just say my valve cover was vented to a rre catch can with breather and then routed to my turbo. It is NOW sealed.

I would suspect base timing or cam timing to be off based on your low g/rev at idle then.


You need to change the global to -55% instead of the current -50%.
 
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