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[RESOLVED] performance crank pully

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Ilikespeed

Probationary Member
14
0
Jul 12, 2008
davenport, Iowa
My friend purchased a motor from a feller who has a crank pulley that is aluminum and does not have the rubber meterial for harmonic balencing. Could this be a problem if the harmonic balencer is just a pulley or should he use an actual harmonic balencer.
This motor is a fresh rebuild and has never been installed. Anyone under stand what I just posted? Its hard to explain.
 
My friend purchased a motor from a feller who has a crank pulley that is aluminum and does not have the rubber meterial for harmonic balencing. Could this be a problem if the harmonic balencer is just a pulley or should he use an actual harmonic balencer.
This motor is a fresh rebuild and has never been installed. Anyone under stand what I just posted? Its hard to explain.

ATI Fluid Damper is the only way to do. Do not run an under drive at all. Stock or ATI. No question.
 
ATI Fluid Damper is the only way to do. Do not run an under drive at all. Stock or ATI. No question.

What's wrong with the Fluidampr pulley? ATI is more money and I believe it has the crank sprocket built in to it, correct? Both negatives to me.
 
I would like to see some proof of how running a solid pulley can do damage,especially with the balance shafts in.I have at least 100,000 km on a unorthadox kit i bought 8 years ago on several different motors with no b-shafts and never had any issues because of it.Lot's of smaller displacement engines have no damper on the crank,rev to 10,000 and come like that from the factory.
 
Im using a Fluidampr pulley on my race motor and loving it. Stay away from the cheap ones with out the rubber around it
 
I've been running a Fluidampr for almost 2 years now on my motor. No issues once so ever.
You could always buy a brand new OEM one and call it a day.
 
It's really not worth the added stress and vibration on your crank. Do a harmonic balancer, either stock or the Fluidampr. If the car comes with a harmonic balancer, the rule of thumb is usually to keep using one.

+1 for that

Fluidamper in mine :thumb:
 
ok guys, question that goes along kind of well with this thread...my harmonic balancer just went out on my spyder I just purchased(less then 60k original miles...grrrr)...and I was wondering, should I replace it with a factory mitsubishi harmonic balancer, or am I ok going with an aftermarket oem one?
 
My unorthadox cranck pully just hangs out in the back seat of my car. I have the factory harmonic balancer attatched to the crack. I sugguest using one that has rubber in it as well.
 
thanks for the heads up on the Dorman HBs, luckily, that's not the brand I ordered yesterday. we'll see how it goes, and if it fails that quick, I'll have to see about getting one from the local chrysler dealer(seeing as the closest mitsubishi dealer is about 100 miles away!!!).
 
yah, I ordered one at advanced auto yesterday, it came in today, and it's the wrong one(good thing I took my broke one in or I wouldn't have known till I got home). they're computer cross references it wrong, so the RIGHT one will take them a week to get in for $120. I've got a chrysler dealer here in town(closest mitsu dealer is about 100 miles away), so i'm going to see what they charge for one, and how long it'll take to get in...but something tells me about a week as well. Think it'd be cheaper through a mitsu dealer? seems most parts are.
 
yah, thanks for the help guys. Got a hold of the dealer here in town, and they can have one for me tomorrow. it's same price, if not less, than the aftermarket oem ones so that is most definitely the way I'm going!! again, thanks.
 
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