6 bolt build options

[choard]

i have a 6 bolt 4g63t motor i am completely re building the block now bare and ready for the machine shop. i am looking to pull mid 13s in the quarter mile. i want to know what mods ( block, head, etc.) i would need or could do to achieve this. if i can get a list of options that would be sweet. i can build and engine, just new to dsms. thanks for the feedback.

 

[MitEclipse2G]

stock block can hold nearly 400 hp depending how old, also try research more, bigger camshaft like 272/272 or 280/280 for bigger valve lift, 400 plus cc fuel injectors, HKS Turbo. thats my best guess to make good power to get low 13's

 

[Lonnie gandee]

stock block can hold nearly 400 hp depending how old, also try research more, bigger camshaft like 272/272 or 280/280 for bigger valve lift, 400 plus cc fuel injectors, HKS Turbo. thats my best guess to make good power to get low 13's

What kinda advice is that? WTF. I'd slap you if you told me that.. An HKS turbo? What like the
T-51z... To run a damn 13..... You have to be a bafoon.

OP... Is you car a n/t like your sig says?

A minimal build with 2g turbo pistons, and 1g turbo rods will do you well... I would build a head b4 a block to be ready to drop in some cams..


I'm running low 12's on a 14b and stock motor....MitEclipse2G--- you need to research, b4 giving advice.

 

[choard]

ha ha ha i love the different opinions, this is why i ask and dont give advise. i have a nt car now but i am swapping in a turbo engine the entire longblock i have a ported 14b turbo already as well. going with 1g rods and 2g pistons, i dont need to bore over do i? i know i have to have some mods done to make the pins fit but thats fine. and as far building the head. how intense? lifters, valves, springs? or just cams and gears? i plan on getting a lightend pulley kit as well. thanks

 

[JayRolla]

Mid 13's can easely be done on stock block. Do a balance shaft elimination, get some arp headbolts, and a OEM multi layer head gasket and you should be set. Save the money on the head and go with a stock build, expecially if 13's are your goals.

 

[erald01]

You will be fine even if you use stock head parts and use 272 cams(unless you have the funds to go top line stuff), but i would consider 3g lifters (3g as in 3rd generation of lifter design) so you don't have that ticking noise, plus they have bigger holes for a better oil flow and pressure.

 

[choard]

yes i have that ticking noise now, it sucks. thanks for all the feedback. and if anyone can please scrool down in the newbie forumn and look at my post about the cyclone mani. thanks

 

[Lonnie gandee]

I agree with a stock valvetrain. I ran 264's to 8500 rpm with no problems.


Just bolt that sucker in and go to town....

I got a buddy who put a turbo motor in a n/t AWD.... The car ran 12.97 106 first pass.

Stock everything, except one part... DSM LINK>..

 

[choard]

no shit..... i know i need dsm link. its a great tuning tool from the sounds of it

 

[Lonnie gandee]

Dont forget though, he's awd... Your most likely front.

 

[choard]

yes i am

 

[JayRolla]

How did you buddy have a n/t awd dsm. Is it the gsx galant?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

How did you buddy have a n/t awd dsm. Is it the gsx galant?

I do believe they made these mysterious AWD NT's in canuckland

 

[Lonnie gandee]

It was a N/t awd 2.0..


Harass me if you like...


He brought the car over my house when it was n/t... I checked it out..

I seen him two weeks later. Running twelves with a bone stock tsi motor transplanted in.

The transmission was ultra weak. He toasted it 5 miles down the road after the swap.

So in went his shep trans. Thats where he is employed.

 

[kottyking]

You know we have tuning guide for a reason. 13's can EASILY be done on a 14b with supporting mods.

 

[kottyking]

stock block can hold nearly 400 hp depending how old, also try research more, bigger camshaft like 272/272 or 280/280 for bigger valve lift, 400 plus cc fuel injectors, HKS Turbo. thats my best guess to make good power to get low 13's

And no offense but horrible advice. 400 cc injectors? Turbo M/t dsms come with 450's stock! Hks Turbo? Wtf does that mean? They restamp some mitsu turbos and sell them for 4x the price. Honestly if 13's is all you seek, get a 14b, 550 injectors, safc, turbo back exhaust, fmic, fuel pump, boost controller/ datalogger, raise the boost with a good tune and welcome to low 13's.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

And no offense but horrible advice. 400 cc injectors? Turbo M/t dsms come with 450's stock! Hks Turbo? Wtf does that mean? They restamp some mitsu turbos and sell them for 4x the price. Honestly if 13's is all you seek, get a 14b, 550 injectors, safc, turbo back exhaust, fmic, fuel pump, boost controller/ datalogger, raise the boost with a good tune and welcome to low 13's.

It's sad that a % of our community believe that cams are part of the 'standard' upgrade path to run 13's. Back in the day stock cams, TB, and intake manifold were the key things for a street car. SMIM, cams, and an accufab was strictly for the race boys. WTF

 

[GalantGreg]

My build is stronger on the bottom end. I have Wiseco pistons and Brian Crower rods. My head had a valve job done to it, and I am running 2g cams. How are the 2g cams?

 

[erald01]

My build is stronger on the bottom end. I have Wiseco pistons and Brian Crower rods. My head had a valve job done to it, and I am running 2g cams. How are the 2g cams?

The difference is very small and 2g cams have a .010'' lower lift than 1g cams, so in other words 1g cams have a slightly higher lift, but 2g cams are more durable. So its a win win situation either way.

 

[choard]

thanks for all the feedback guys. i know which way im going with this now. later

 

[choard]

with what mods

 

[chrisb33]

sorry to hi-jack this thread but i cant help but notice the post regarding topline. Ive been researching about this brand and it seems like the consensus is that this brand is sub-par with OEM or NPR.

I maybe wrong though. if they're making quality stuff now then i guess they're a worthwhile investment in rebuilding one's engine coz they're cheaper than going forged.

chris b

 

[chrisb33]

ha ha ha i love the different opinions, this is why i ask and dont give advise. i have a nt car now but i am swapping in a turbo engine the entire longblock i have a ported 14b turbo already as well. going with 1g rods and 2g pistons, i dont need to bore over do i? i know i have to have some mods done to make the pins fit but thats fine. and as far building the head. how intense? lifters, valves, springs? or just cams and gears? i plan on getting a lightend pulley kit as well. thanks

Are you going to use the car for racing or dd too? i suggest to lay off with the lightened pulley especially the crank pulley. Although it will give you additional hp and faster revs, it may damage your crank because of the vibration. In fact, some of the guys prefer the heavier fluid damper to safeguard the bottom end. But since you're getting a 6bolt, use your stock pulleys. I also suggest you replace your main and rod bearings and get a lightened flywheel instead. IMHO, i think you're better off spending the money elsewhere than getting those lightened pulleys.

As for the head, depends on how high you plan to rev your engine. but what you listed for your head parts will be a good investment especially when you decide to upgrade your turbo (which im sure you will) and should you decide to upgrade to a SMIM in the future.

if you're going to do this route, do it right the first time

+1 on dsmlink. wait for the v3 to come out though (if you can wait).
+1 on the arp bolts - id rather you do main, rod, and head bolts since youre rebuilding the block anyway.
+1 on the metal head gasket

since you're getting a dsmlink, get bigger injectors like 650's or 750's so you dont have to upgrade in the future. the dsmlink can tune your injectors global and deadtime setting so bigger injectors wont hurt your idling. once you upgrade your turbo, it will save you $$$ in the long run vs. buying a set of smaller injectors now, and buying a bigger one when the upgrade itch gets to you.

add a meth kit too while you're at it

i think i just made you pass your 13 second goal hahaha! Once your done with all these, upgrade your turbo to at least an e316g or fp18g, do some porting, then you're looking in my estimate - AT LEAST 300 horses on the wheels. If you want more power at a cheaper price then go with the holset.

how fast you can go will depend on your driving skills

hope this helps

chris b

 

[blcknspo0ln]

sorry to hi-jack this thread but i cant help but notice the post regarding topline. Ive been researching about this brand and it seems like the consensus is that this brand is sub-par with OEM or NPR.

I maybe wrong though. if they're making quality stuff now then i guess they're a worthwhile investment in rebuilding one's engine coz they're cheaper than going forged.

chris b

This is the same topic versus anything other than OEM. There are people and vendors who swear up and down topline is perfectly fine, but as the end-user it's up to you if the risk is worth the savings.

 

[chrisb33]

This is the same topic versus anything other than OEM. There are people and vendors who swear up and down topline is perfectly fine, but as the end-user it's up to you if the risk is worth the savings.

Yup. just as i thought too. I was just wondering if topline has introduced some new and improved product line that i missed.

By physically looking at their pistons alone, i can see that they seem to have ceramic coating on them. Based on my experience when i had my pistons coated, it just melted and seeped through the chamber and locked up the rings. maybe it's just an isolated case though.

chris b