Atuca
Supporting Member
- 1,145
- 303
- Jan 6, 2007
-
Central Valley,
California
Hey guys been a while but I am back 
After this summer I was on the path to finally upgrading fuel injectors and turning up the boost, and about a week after I started planning my car stopped holding charge (and therefore DSMlink changes). It needs jumps to start so I figured it was just time for a new battery. Figures when I want to spend money on upgrades...
After testing at Kragon, it came up ok, which is not ok, because it means there is a drain somewhere. I bought a voltigemeter, and started pulling fuses.
I have a .08 drain. I havn't messed with anything eletrical for months, last thing was my car alarm in January, which I installed myself.
When I pulled the ignition fuse, the drain drops to .04 so I assumed it meant my car alarm or my turbo timer. I put in the fuse in the fuse box, than unplugged turbo timer, nothing, stayed at .08. I unplugged the fuse to my car alarm, drain drops to .05/.04 (fluctuates).
I assume my car alarm needs power when the car is off to protect it, but having a car alarm drains it. I don't think I installed it wrong, it worked for almost a full year, and I am supposed to tap into a continuous +12v ignition power line, and all conections were made with insulated butt splices crimped or sodered and shrink wrapped. The wire that is pulling power for the alarm is fused, and when I pulled just the fuse, the drain goes away. I don't know how much car alarms usually need to power themselves, but I found my problem, but don't know how to fix it.
Does the alarm need these .04 mA to operate, or do you think my alarm is pulling power because somewhere else in my alarm set up is draining power? What is confusing it that my car has been just fine for months, and now this shows up. Give me ideas and I will test them tomorrow.

After this summer I was on the path to finally upgrading fuel injectors and turning up the boost, and about a week after I started planning my car stopped holding charge (and therefore DSMlink changes). It needs jumps to start so I figured it was just time for a new battery. Figures when I want to spend money on upgrades...
After testing at Kragon, it came up ok, which is not ok, because it means there is a drain somewhere. I bought a voltigemeter, and started pulling fuses.
I have a .08 drain. I havn't messed with anything eletrical for months, last thing was my car alarm in January, which I installed myself.
When I pulled the ignition fuse, the drain drops to .04 so I assumed it meant my car alarm or my turbo timer. I put in the fuse in the fuse box, than unplugged turbo timer, nothing, stayed at .08. I unplugged the fuse to my car alarm, drain drops to .05/.04 (fluctuates).
I assume my car alarm needs power when the car is off to protect it, but having a car alarm drains it. I don't think I installed it wrong, it worked for almost a full year, and I am supposed to tap into a continuous +12v ignition power line, and all conections were made with insulated butt splices crimped or sodered and shrink wrapped. The wire that is pulling power for the alarm is fused, and when I pulled just the fuse, the drain goes away. I don't know how much car alarms usually need to power themselves, but I found my problem, but don't know how to fix it.
Does the alarm need these .04 mA to operate, or do you think my alarm is pulling power because somewhere else in my alarm set up is draining power? What is confusing it that my car has been just fine for months, and now this shows up. Give me ideas and I will test them tomorrow.
