Replace Outer Tie Rod End .. or Boot?

[pSimytSi]

I took my car on the highway this morning. Once it made it to around 60mph it started vibrating and the steering wheel was real shakey. When I got back home I was looking over my tires - suspension parts and found my passenger side outer tie rod (balljoint,bushing,boot?) is crushed.

Do I need a whole new outer tie rod end or will a new boot hold it back up? And should I do both sides inner and outer at the same time? The cars body is reaching 80,000 miles and these parts are stock I believe.

This probably deserves to be here in the newb section

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

Just replace both inner and outer including the boots while you're down there. The inners will give you a little more problem to take out than the outers but when it's all done you be happy. You might need an alignment too... I measured mine and didn't need an alignment but I would def recommend you getting one when you're done.

 

[chico904]

Dont just get the boot, get the entire outer tie rod, boot included. I just did this last week, and shipped it was $20.00 for a pair.

 

[99RedGs]

I just replaced my outer tie rod end last wednesday. Cost me $25 and it literally took longer to take the tools out than to put it on. You will want to get an alignment after you do this, and I recommend doing the drivers side at the same time just in case it decides to go out in 1,000 miles you don't have to pay for another alignment.

This is what mine looked like before.

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[wises4057]

there's a tool you can get from advance auto parts to removal the inner tie rod...i haven't bought one yet, but will when I have to do inner tie rods again. the part number is T75804. go to their site and type that in the search. the part is about $15 up here....might also be able to find that part at checker auto. that should make removing those inner rods ALOT easier...it's like an long socket.

 

[cavillac]

there's a tool you can get from advance auto parts to removal the inner tie rod...i haven't bought one yet, but will when I have to do inner tie rods again. the part number is T75804. go to their site and type that in the search. the part is about $15 up here....might also be able to find that part at checker auto. that should make removing those inner rods ALOT easier...it's like an long socket.

I'm a professional tech and I could never imagine doing an inner tierod without the removal tool

As for the original topic.. replacing suspension components isnt really like well my outer tie rod is loose, should I replace the inner.. just replace whats loose

<120K+ on stock inner tierod ends..

 

[wises4057]

I know one person who did the inner tie rods without that tool, and it took them quite a while!! I've been thinking of doing mine...that's why I researched and found that tool!! I think it's going to make the inner rod a breeze!!

 

[chico904]

Yes you might want to get a pickelfork to help with taking it off, Advanced had the loaner tool program so you dont have to buy it.

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

I know one person who did the inner tie rods without that tool, and it took them quite a while!! !

I was one of "those" people too. And 2 weeks later I helped my buddy do the same thing without the tool. Most of the time when the boot is torn the inner tie rod needs replacing. When we replaced mine that thing was so loose with no grease at all.

 

[dsmnightracer]

do both sides inner and outer and also have alignment done. the vibration might not be from the tie rod end, inspect all ball joints and wheel bearings for being loose. you tire could be bad, to much road force.

 

[1whitegsx]

the shaking is actually most likely the tires. they probably just need to be balanced. im a professional tech too. with the tie rod end, yes you should replace it because you dont want all of the grease to come out and the joint to wear out. don't replace suspension components just because you're there, replace them if they're worn out. DEFINETLY do an alignment afterwards. measuring actually doesn't work. good luck!

 

[pSimytSi]

ok thanks guys! I wasn't able to lift the car yesterday to check the balljoints and wheel bearings but that crushed tie rod end stuck out. I didn't notice it when washing the car other day and yesterday was the first the cars ever vibrated like that. Will be checking the other parts while I'm replacing the TRE.

RedGS or anybody else.. some post here said the TRE won't cause this vibration. Mine is completely crushed on the pass. side like in your video, so did yours or any one elses car and steering wheel vibrate because of that? I'm a newb but I'd think it would cause that tire to vibrate or run with no steady balance, and that would cause vibration in the car/steering wheel?

 

[3tcpower]

My outer tie rod is toast as well and mine vibrates.

I didn't know that was the issue till I went to get safety and emissions and failed. My driver side outer is dead. That is my only issue since the tires are new and balanced.

 

[pSimytSi]

My outer tie rod is toast as well and mine vibrates.

I didn't know that was the issue till I went to get safety and emissions and failed. My driver side outer is dead. That is my only issue since the tires are new and balanced.

Sweet, thanks 3tc. I was hoping it would be my only problem as I already have a few other parts to order when the sun comes up. Hopefully it will be the culpret because right now I don't even feel safe at 55.

 

[99RedGs]

Well, I replied to your PM but here is a little more of my insight on this and so everyone searching finds it.

My Outer TRE was bad as seen in my video. I also had vibration from 60-80 usually and when I hit bumps my steering wheel would feel loose. After replacing the TRE I had the alignment done and balanced my tires at the same time (it had been a while).

I get no vibration now and my steering is no longer loose. Whether it was the bad TRE or balancing that fixed it I can't say for sure. Depending on when your last balancing was you may be due for one anyways.

Also, when I installed my new TRE the boot compresses down similar to in my video. Are you basing your judgement of a bad TRE on the boot or by movement like I showed?

 

[pSimytSi]

Also, when I installed my new TRE the boot compresses down similar to in my video. Are you basing your judgement of a bad TRE on the boot or by movement like I showed?

Well I didn't get my hand around there or the car jacked up yesterday, but it looks completely crushed and looks nothing like the other side does. I'll see if it can be moved before heading to autozone though..

 

[pSimytSi]

99RedGs you saved me a purchase on something that may not need a replacement. That TRE does not move unless I grab it like a motorcyle throttle and twist it back and forth. Both sides can twist like that so I believe the part is alright..

I found what I think is doing it though. I can grab the (lower control arm?) near the balljoint nearest the bottom of the rotor and move it down almost half an inch. In the manual this bar is named 'Compression lower arm' is that another name for the LCA or does everything together make up what's considerd the LCA? I checked the driver side one and it's sturdy as well as all other joints, so I believe that's my problem.

Sound right? Could that balljoint cause the same or similar problems?

 

[PIMking]

yes.

 

[99RedGs]

Is it the straight arm or the curved arm? The lateral arm (straight) will run you about $35, the curved (compression) will run you over $100.


Loose balljoint could, and are causing your problems. Not to mention are a huge safety issue. Imagine this happening at 70 mph...

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Get that fixed ASAP.

 

[PIMking]

^^^ that is a recall isnt it?

haha I had a couple of my buddies 2g's do that. Sorry It happend at lower speeds but it was funny. as I drove by him and Revved up the engine

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I just replaced my outer tie rod end last wednesday. Cost me $25 and it literally took longer to take the tools out than to put it on. You will want to get an alignment after you do this, and I recommend doing the drivers side at the same time just in case it decides to go out in 1,000 miles you don't have to pay for another alignment.

This is what mine looked like before.

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/lxyYpOG6bEo&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/lxyYpOG6bEo&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Where are you getting your TRE's for $25? Are they OEM?
Thanks!

 

[pSimytSi]

Where are you getting your TRE's for $25? Are they OEM?
Thanks!

When I was going to order them yesterday, the best TREs Autozone had were Duralast for $29.99ea. Advanced Auto had the same ones for $31.99.


That picture above is one I wanted but also didn't want to see. It's great to know how much of a safety issue it could be but seeing I won't be ordering the part until next week litterally makes me sick. ..

It's not the lateral arm though but the curved compression arm. The cheapest one around after calling 3 dealers and checking online was $171+shipping. Misubishiparts.com. All 3 dealers asked for upwards of $250.

They did have a safety recall on the lateral arm in 2000 that affected over half a million cars but no help for this fix.

The only question I have right now is, could that compression arm cause the same tire falling off damage that the lateral arm did in the above picture? I'd hate to put my truck on the road so soon but it could be better than risking an accident all week. It moves quite a bit when the tire is jacked up, I'd say at least 1/2 inch. It makes the car really loose when going around corners and clunks when going over bumps. Hasn't been driven over 55 sence it happened, seeing it'll start shaking around 60.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Stop driving immediately. 1/2" of play is absurd.
Are you sure it is the compression arm and not the lateral? The lateral is a much more common failure.

But either way, yes if your compression arm fails you will still most likely end up like that photoshoot a couple posts up.

 

[peon_slayer]

Is it the straight arm or the curved arm? The lateral arm (straight) will run you about $35, the curved (compression) will run you over $100.


Loose balljoint could, and are causing your problems. Not to mention are a huge safety issue. Imagine this happening at 70 mph...

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Get that fixed ASAP.

this has absolutely nothing to do with this thread but can i buy the red one looks deadly

 

[pSimytSi]

Stop driving immediately. 1/2" of play is absurd.
Are you sure it is the compression arm and not the lateral? The lateral is a much more common failure.

But either way, yes if your compression arm fails you will still most likely end up like that photoshoot a couple posts up.

Yeah it's the compression arm. The curved arm. So you're saying it will fail easily and end up like that photo?

Would the lateral arm and other pieces need to break first or is it if that curved arm lets go it'll go with so much pressure everything else just snaps? I wouldn't be able to legally put my truck on the road until monday seeing DMV is closed. Work tonight and tomorrow night..