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High Oil Pressure, how bad??

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SD99GST

10+ Year Contributor
368
2
Sep 6, 2008
Oakland, California
So I let my friend do a Oil Change for me, he borrowed my car and said he would do it as a thank you, he knew my car was burning a little oil so he decided to go crazy and add in his own remedy. So he put my 20w-50w Royal Purple mixed with Lucas Oil Stabilizer... 50/50.:cry:

So here is what I get, I wake up this morning to get going to work, since I do traffic most the way did not really notice a difference, but once I began getting to 55-65 mph my oil pressure gauge started rising like crazy. Could not figure out what had happened until I called my friend to see if he noticed the problem, thats when he told me about the "LUCAS"...:confused:

So here is my question, I really dont have time to do a oil change today and once again I work tomorrow, how bad is it if I drive with high oil pressure. How high is way to high? I mean I know Ill run the risk of causing oil leaks in seals, but will this happen over time, or can I expect it happening like tomorrow? Here is a pic of where my gauge sits, but even goes about one more needle thickness higher at a little higher Rpm. Thanks for the help.:thumb:
 

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So I let my friend do a Oil Change for me, he borrowed my car and said he would do it as a thank you, he knew my car was burning a little oil so he decided to go crazy and add in his own remedy. So he put my 20w-50w Royal Purple mixed with Lucas Oil Stabilizer... 50/50.:cry:

So here is what I get, I wake up this morning to get going to work, since I do traffic most the way did not really notice a difference, but one I began getting to 55-65 mph my oil pressure gauge started rising like crazy. Could not figure out what had happened until I called my friend to see if he noticed the problem, thats when he told me about the "LUCAS"...:confused:

So here is my question, I really dont have time to do a oil change today and once again I work tomorrow, how bad is it if I drive with high oil pressure. How high is way to high? I mean I know Ill run the risk of causing oil leaks in seals, but will this happen over time, or can I expect it happening like tomorrow? Here is a pic of where my gauge sits, but even goes about one more needle thickness higher at a little higher Rpm. Thanks for the help.:thumb:

I would drain that crap right away if it was my car. If you decide to wait, keep the revs low which will help with the oil pressure. As far as seals leaking, it should be immediately apparent i would think, like when a turbo seal goes bad.

Adam P.s. Punch your friend.
 
Thanks for the reply, I'd love to punch him, Royal Purple is expensive to just be throwing it away like that... but he tried ya know!

Kind of like the girlfriend trying to buy you a little neon tube that plugs into the cigarette lighter to light you console!!! haha it's the thought I guess...

But your right, Ill drain that out ASAP.
 
More like if you gf knows you're not enjoying being with her so to "make it up to you" she hires you a male stripper. Punch that broad.

Best case scenario, nothing happens. <-Most likely, provided you fix it soon.
Worse case scenario, turbo seals blow.
Worst case scenario, all sorts of shit blows and starts leaking.
 
i read this and i was just wondering my dsm just hit 126000 whats the best oil to use without having to use lucas? i use mobile one 10w-30.
:talon:

Never ever use oil additives! There's a thread and a webpage floating around here somewhere that shows how Lucas promotes frothing and air bubbles.

Mobile 1 is right on the money. I also recommend using a Purolator Pure One filter (tested to provide best filtering, low resistance).
 
i read this and i was just wondering my dsm just hit 126000 whats the best oil to use without having to use lucas? i use mobile one 10w-30.
:talon:

Yeah, dont use lucas, or any other product of the kind. I am a big fan of Royal Purple, i have had nothing but good experience in the past with this oil in other cars both new and old. For high mileage motor i would go with 20w-50w.:thumb:
 
Yeah I going to have to get me a oil pressure gauge so that I can stop guessing and get a accurate reading, but for now, tomorrow morning Im going to drain and refill and the pressure gauge should go back to reading where it used to be.

Just hopefully it holds up while I make it to the parts store.:sneaky:
 
My oil pressure in the morn is about 75 psi and it drops to around 65 psi when it warms up @ around 3 rpms.

I'd see that as good, but then again...the stock boost and oil pressure gauges are junk.

That's really friggen high. On cold starts I'll see 50-70psi, once the engine is fully warm and I drive it a bit, I'll see 15 psi at idle. This is with no BS and ported OFH.
 
By the way, I drained my oil this morning... funny thing is that the oil pressure dropped but not as low as I remember it being...

I think its really time to look into a oil pressure gauge so I can really see whats going on.

BTW - So my car has no oil leaks, and when I drained the oil I discovered that on the part that the oil filter screws onto it started collecting a little drop. Im sure I cleans off any oil that may have dripped down when the oil filter was removed. Wondering if that had anything to do with running high oil pressure for about 2 hours of driving time.

Also, :cry: Now my car has began leaking water. Cant tell where its coming from but its leaking right under where the stock battery location is on my 99 Eclipse. Wonder whats that all about.

It really is never ending with these cars.:(
 
The only thing on a 99 GST would be the heater hoses. Im guessing around the water pipe/tranny area. Its leaking proablly down the backside of the tranny. Check out the end of the water pipe near in the intake manifold theres about 4 hoses.
 
The only thing on a 99 GST would be the heater hoses. Im guessing around the water pipe/tranny area. Its leaking proablly down the backside of the tranny. Check out the end of the water pipe near in the intake manifold theres about 4 hoses.

Thanks for the reply, check on that tomorrow after work see if I can pin point it.:rocks:
 
I posted this one for one topic and I'll repeat it here. It's not pressure that's important but it's the FLOW that is important. All pressure does, esp when adding those additives is reducing the flow and putting more wear and tear on the oil pump.

When SD99GST that had "Locolucas" added to his oil, his pressure definitely went high due to making the oil act like molasses. Then he pulled that stuff out and got back to a normal weight, that pressure was bound to drop due to the quicker flow of the oil.

Getting the oil to critical areas as fast as it can get there. Why we need flow to be fast enought to get to our turbos to take the heat away, send it to the oil cooler section, then back to the sump to be cooled more before the cycle repeats iself.

You shove in 20w50 and it's like running molasses in the block, esp when it's cold. For multiweight numbers means the lower number is the flow rate when hot and the high number is the flow rate when cold.

20w50 stuff is good for racing V8's since they are big enough to handle that thicker stuff. But, 4 cyl motors, it's like molasses to them. I shudder to see that 10w/60 come into play into our motors - just way too thick to be used.

Some folks will run those "ought" weights, i.e. 0w/30, 0w/40, or low weights like 5w/20 to get the highest flow, yet with still lubrication protection. But, these low weights is a bit risky for turbo motors.

Why 10w/30 synthetic is the recommended weight for our turbo motors, or even 5w/30 weight is good - flows easily enough when cold but flows quick when hot to protect our motors to get that heat away from crucial areas of the motor. But, if the budget it tight, dino multiweights are good also, but just follow the more stricter oil change cycles due to dino oils break down quicker.

-DSM
 
royal purple FTW. I agree on the 20w-50 being a little on the thick side, I currently run there 15w-40 and am very happy. Cold starts I see 85psi @ 2500, no BS and ported OFH. After its warm 14psi @ 1000 and 60psi @ 3500 climbs to 85psi @ 7k, no problems so far 15k on a stroker motor. As for the lucas check What about Additives?

its enough to steer me clear
 
royal purple FTW. I agree on the 20w-50 being a little on the thick side, I currently run there 15w-40 and am very happy. Cold starts I see 85psi @ 2500, no BS and ported OFH. After its warm 14psi @ 1000 and 60psi @ 3500 climbs to 85psi @ 7k, no problems so far 15k on a stroker motor.

its enough to steer me clear

Im about at this also on my stroker motor. I actually didnt know what about normal was. Glad im in the green, haha.
 
I posted this one for one topic and I'll repeat it here. It's not pressure that's important but it's the FLOW that is important. All pressure does, esp when adding those additives is reducing the flow and putting more wear and tear on the oil pump.

When SD99GST that had "Locolucas" added to his oil, his pressure definitely went high due to making the oil act like molasses. Then he pulled that stuff out and got back to a normal weight, that pressure was bound to drop due to the quicker flow of the oil.

Getting the oil to critical areas as fast as it can get there. Why we need flow to be fast enought to get to our turbos to take the heat away, send it to the oil cooler section, then back to the sump to be cooled more before the cycle repeats iself.

You shove in 20w50 and it's like running molasses in the block, esp when it's cold. For multiweight numbers means the lower number is the flow rate when hot and the high number is the flow rate when cold.

20w50 stuff is good for racing V8's since they are big enough to handle that thicker stuff. But, 4 cyl motors, it's like molasses to them. I shudder to see that 10w/60 come into play into our motors - just way too thick to be used.

Some folks will run those "ought" weights, i.e. 0w/30, 0w/40, or low weights like 5w/20 to get the highest flow, yet with still lubrication protection. But, these low weights is a bit risky for turbo motors.

Why 10w/30 synthetic is the recommended weight for our turbo motors, or even 5w/30 weight is good - flows easily enough when cold but flows quick when hot to protect our motors to get that heat away from crucial areas of the motor. But, if the budget it tight, dino multiweights are good also, but just follow the more stricter oil change cycles due to dino oils break down quicker.

-DSM

Well i guess i better drain once more this week....:beatentodeath:

I was told when i had my previous car ( 1992 MR2 ) that above 120.000 miles i should thicken up to 20-50....lesson learned. thanks for the detailed post.:thumb:
 
So I did a oil change again for the third time... Royal Purple 10w-30 this time. Great advise, oil pressure back to normal and running like a champ...

By the way, Car also magically stopped leaking water! dont know what to think of that but I guess for now its good. Thank again all.
 
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