2G Update: Spyder Changed my manual tranny fluid & now my car won't go into gear.....

[Im Dabom]

I have a 97 Spyder GS, my husband changed the manual transaxle fluid on Sunday, I drove the car Monday and everything was fine, I drove it yesterday to work, again everything was fine.
I ran my daughter to tumbling class and notices that 1st and 2nd gear were difficult to shift into. I thought it was my imagination. Got in it this morning to go to work and couldn't shift it into ANY gear. Ended up having to take my gas guzzling Sequoia.

Could this new problem be due to the recent fluid change?

I have a 2.4 engine and the first AutoZone worker told us we had to get the fluid from the dealer, the second worker said as long as it's GL-4 or higher we were okay (I confirmed this in the manual when I got home). We picked Valvoline Synthetic 75-90W.

Any one have any suggestions?

 

[No_Skillz]

The fluid you used is probably GL-5. That, in combination with it being synthetic, can mean that it is too thing for your application. On my recently rebuilt transmission, I was told to stay away from syncromesh, GL-5 or synthetics. I picked up some Valvoline non-synthetic 80W-95 for the break in and plan to go Redline MTL or MT90 after that.

 

[Im Dabom]

oops! It's Mobil synthetic gear lubricant 75W-90 not Valvoline.

 

[No_Skillz]

oops! It's Mobil synthetic gear lubricant 75W-90 not Valvoline.

Brands don't really matter. Many people run Coastal (the generic black bottle on the bottom shelf) and love it. It's the synthetic and the GL-5 that I would stay away from.

 

[Im Dabom]

The fluid you used is probably GL-5.

You're right it was GL-5.

 

[Polyol]

The fluid you used is probably GL-5. That, in combination with it being synthetic, can mean that it is too thing for your application. On my recently rebuilt transmission, I was told to stay away from syncromesh, GL-5 or synthetics. I picked up some Valvoline non-synthetic 80W-95 for the break in and plan to go Redline MTL or MT90 after that.

Redline is synthetic

 

[talon187]

im running the royal purple stuff having no issues my trans is built as well shifts like a meachine!

 

[Freerevving]

This has been covered a million times.... if it says "GL-5" anywhere on the bottle, then it's GL-5

You need to find one that only says "GL-4" on the back. If you use synthetic you won't have to change it every 10k miles.

Redline, Amsoil, are two of the companies that make synthetics that work... If you want mineral-based you can use Sta-lube (CRC), or any other store brand that specifies GL4 only.

You can also use Pennzoil/GM Synchromesh, but we warned that it's thinner and provides less long-term protection

 

[Im Dabom]

You need to find one that only says "GL-4" on the back.

I see, I could have swore the manual said GL-4 or higher and I assumed that since 5 is higher than 4, it would be ok. Obviously it wasn't.

Lesson learned. I guess now I just need to find some GL-4 and get my husband to drain out this crap.

Thanks for everyones help!

 

[el guapo]

you should probably have the slave cylinder checked i just dont see new trans fluid making it stop shifting in any compasity

 

[rob1621]

so if i want to change my tranny fluid pretty soon (my tranny isnt built or anything, just regular one.) you guys recommend redline or amsoil synthetic?

 

[No_Skillz]

Synthetics, GL-high numbers, and syncromesh tends to be thinner. Conventional tends to be thicker. Thinner fluids will help with ease of shifting but does not provide as much long term nor shock protection as thicker fluids. It's up to you to find the right balance/your preference.

Dabom, I agree with el guapo 100%. Thinking about it now, it's unlikely that this difference in trans fluid will make such a large difference in the short term. Definitely check your hydraulic system as well.

 

[DSM1G90]

you guys recommend redline or amsoil synthetic?

I've got MT-90 in my tranny: best thing I ever did - thing shifts real smooth.

I wouldn't kick AMSOIL out of bed for eating crackers either - their stuff is great stuff. I use their oils in our family vehicles. Just that I had access to Redline at the time.

 

[Im Dabom]

Well since it stopped raining and it was still daylight out when I got home, I got in the car and the clutch is mushy and if I don't start the engine I'm able to shift but when I did start the engine I wasn't able to shift.

I popped the hood and the clutch reservoir was dry as a bone. I added more fluid in the hopes of some improvement but there wasn't any.

Is my clutch shot?

 

[govproperty]

If it was bone dry you may have to bleed your clutch. I believe there is a tech article on it in the tech section here.

 

[No_Skillz]

Don't bother refilling at this point. The only way you can lose that amount of fluid is if you have a leak somewherein your hydraulic system. Either the slave or the master is at fault, but it's a good idea to replace both since they see the same amount of action.

 

[Im Dabom]

If it was bone dry you may have to bleed your clutch. I believe there is a tech article on it in the tech section here.

We bled the clutch but there was little improvement (it's firmer than it was but still not quite right). & we changed the gear oil back to GL-4 (there were small metal flakes in the fluid).


The car will shift into gears while running now. But it's not easy & smooth like it used to be.

What could be wrong with it?

 

[doober75]

i just got my transmission built from dogbox. what oil do you recommend? they didnt give any advice on it.

 

[DSMTriad]

It could be possible that the transmission was over filled. I put too much in and it shifted poorly but once I drained it to the appropriate oil level it was fine.

 

[Auto RS T]

We bled the clutch but there was little improvement (it's firmer than it was but still not quite right). & we changed the gear oil back to GL-4 (there were small metal flakes in the fluid).


The car will shift into gears while running now. But it's not easy & smooth like it used to be.

What could be wrong with it?

You want to check the slave and clutch master cylinders for signs of leaking fluid. Like No_Skillz and el guapo said previously.

Sounds like a coinsidence that you changed the tranny fluid at the same time the car started shifting poorly, or is this why the fluid was changed in the first place?

To check the clutch master, look under the dash inside the car at the rubber boot where the rod goes through, it should be dry. If not replace. If the master is bad, it is a good idea to replace the slave as its failure is most likely close behind, they are part of the same system, use the same contaminated fluid, and perform the same amount of duty.

 

[No_Skillz]

i just got my transmission built from dogbox. what oil do you recommend? they didnt give any advice on it.

I also got my transmission rebuilt from dogbox within the last week. I am currently running Valvoline 80w-90 nonsynthetic gear oil. I plan to change it after ~800 miles to redline MTL or MT-90.

Thinner fluid provides better shifter feel, but not long term nor DD protection. In general, syncromesh, GL-5+, and synthetics are considered thin. Redline MTL and MT-90 are synthetic but are of adequate thickness.

If you need more advice, you should feel free to call dogbox any time. They have provided me with more than adequate time to answer all my questions.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

We bled the clutch but there was little improvement (it's firmer than it was but still not quite right). & we changed the gear oil back to GL-4 (there were small metal flakes in the fluid).


The car will shift into gears while running now. But it's not easy & smooth like it used to be.

What could be wrong with it?

I know this might seem insulting, but are you 100% sure you put the right amount of fluid in the transmission? Seems dumb, but sometimes it's a missed point. Also, rule of thumb is always bleed your clutch, and then bleed it again Also, what method are you using to bleed the clutch? Are you checking for movement from the slave rod?

 

[scoby41]

Modern Automotive Performance

They have a redline drivetrain fluid package for like $45 (i think) and shipped right to my door. Picked it up for my build

 

[No_Skillz]

Modern Automotive Performance

They have a redline drivetrain fluid package for like $45 (i think) and shipped right to my door. Picked it up for my build

That's a nice combo package but unnecessary for fwd.

 

[Defiant]

Come on, people. None of this has to do with the transmission fluid. The hydraulics have shit the bed, probably at the slave end.
Pull the dust cover from the slave cylinder and look for leakage. Check the slave hard line for cracking, and check the driver's footwell for a flood of fluid.

On an N/T transmission, you MUST use factory fluid ONLY. Chrysler or Mitsubishi either one. No Synchromesh, Royal Purple, B&M or any other exotics, and no synthetics.