OverHeating/Tran Problems

[cwjb4life]

The car is a 1992 Eagle Talon TSI FWD W/Turbo. When I got the car it had transmision problems due to leaked capacitators and the pulse generator connector was backwards with the shift solenoid. I corrected the wiring and purchased a rebuilt computer for the car. Once installed the car beging shifting as it should when cool. The problems now are that if I drive the car for 15 min or more the temp gauge is where it should be but the engine cuts out when the car should shift then a sec or two later the engine power is back and it has shifted. The car is not red linning prob not close enough for it to be the rev limitor to be killing the power. It also does not do this all the time like if I pull over let the car sit in netrual for a min or two then get back on the road and romp on it it will shift normal through all the gears and you can tell the tranny is in good shape it shifts very smooth and feels like new. Also if only using about 65% throttle or less the car shifts smooth and has plenty of power really does not seem like it is slipping feels great in all gears. Then after driving for a bit I get back into the city and when sitting at a red light in gear the temp starts to rise and very fast. Now when the car is is drive and im sitting at the light the temp continues to rise, but if I put the car in Neutral the temp starts to go back where it should be. The transmision is a remanifactured tranny and has very low millage. Also when the transmision was in limp mode it was not driven much at all just enough to test and move it to my location. Im thinking maybe the transmision is responsible for the over heating since Im also having problems with it shifting when its hot. I have replaced the water pump, thermostat, checked themo sensor with infared temp guage and it is turning the fans on and off as it should at the correct temp. Thought maybe it was a air lock but checked multiple times to get air out no luck. The other thing is I can start the car not drive any where and let it run for hour or more it will never leave the middle mark on the temp its right where it needs to be. Im not the one that installed the tranny it was installed right befor I got the car. If by any chance the cooling lines were hooked up backwards would it over heat? Does it have to flow a certain direction through the cooler?

Any suggestions on where to go with this would be greatly appriciated.

Also I have checked the basics, cooling fluid where it should be, the tranny fluid is just a lil bellow the full line when hot and in neutral, and the transmsion does have new fluid and new filter. Also does not smell burnt, and no signs of metalica in the fluid.

Thanks
Mark

 

[96mitsugsx]

With your overheating problem, have your radiator rodded out. If you already replaced all those parts, the radiator might be the culprit. With your tranny, try flushing the torque converter. It will cost you a few quarts of ATF but it might be worth it.

 

[96mitsugsx]

Also with your tranny fluid lines, one is the feed line and the other is a return line. The guy probably put it backwards. If you know someone that has the same car as you do, try switching ecu's and test drive the car.

 

[fatherbubble]

I think with the problem you had with the connector. I wouldn't trust the rest of the install. Get the Haynes Manuel an check it out. I bet the lines are on wrong or they probably didn't change out the converter an it just went bad. But the line back wards an the oil not being able to get cooled off would cause that. Thats why I love Manuel cars no need to worries about extra stuff.

 

[cwjb4life]

Ok here is a update. I tore every thing out of the front. Radiator, air conditioning condenser cooler, and transmission cooler. I found them to be plugged and full of crap especially the air conditioning cooler since its before the radiator. I left the the air conditioning cooler out because it was so filthy with grease and so corroded I decided I will buy a new one. Cleaned every thing else with a coil cleaner and put it back together. Everything else looks like its connected where it should be so here is how its running now. It runs a little cooler now but I think the transmission problem is separate then the cooling now. I did so more testing today and found that it in fact is also cutting out when its cold I guess just out of habit I never really went wot or punched it until the car was up to normal operating temp. So the temp makes no difference at all with the transmission. The car still over heats but not as bad and not as quick. What I have noticed is if Im sitting at the light and rev it to about 1,500 rpms the temp come back down very quick so maybe circulating problem. Now the transmission no mater what the temp cold or hot always cuts out at 5,000rpms exactly but the car does not red line till 7,000rpms and it does not mater what gear I am in. I can rev it to 6k plus or more in neutral or park though.

Any thoughts?
Thanks
Mark

 

[cwjb4life]

After doing a little more research I think the problem is fuel cut. I am going to try and figure out how to do this boost leak test.

 

[cwjb4life]

Ok I did a boost leak test last night. Went to home depot and got a 2in Rubber quick coupling and a 2 inch cap. Tapped the end of the cap to fit the 1/4inch quick connect fitting into it. Added plumbers tape to the threads and screwed together. Then tightened the cap inside the rubber coupling and added pressure regulator and flex house to air compressor to make it easier to get to the different locations. I worked my way through the whole system and only found the common leak of the seal on the BISS. So I put a new O Ring on the biss and adjusted. It is not leaking any more but I am still having the problem with it cutting out at 5,000rpms. Since I still have the computers out on the floor when it cuts out you can hear a clicking sound from the computer. I cant tell if its coming from the ecu or the tcu though.

This car is really starting to get on my nerves , any ways any other suggestions? Should I start replacing things like the MAF sensor?

Thanks
MArk