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150k miles,new motor question?

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kevbojunior

15+ Year Contributor
116
0
Mar 3, 2008
Cheyenne, Wyoming
My 99gst had 150k on it when it went. it was the stock 7 bolt and it went when the timing belt jumped a few teeth and bent some valves. So should i do a built 6 bolt or just build the 7 bolt back up? i searched for a while and since its a 99 i wasnt so sure cause of crank walk. i know it happens to all of them but what would be the best?
 
Seeing as how your engine made it to 150K without walking there's a pretty good chance you'll be alright rebuilding the 7-bolt. Make sure you do it by the book and you shouldn't have any problems with it. Of course get everything checked out by a machinist. Since it was a timing belt failure that was the demise of your engine, now would be a good time to go with a 1g head with your 7-bolt block. There are some diehard 7-bolters out there making great power on the 7-bolts don't be weary. I hate it when people say "Oh, my engine is toast. Time for a 6-bolt!!! :thumb:" Build it right and it will last a long time.
 
There are horror stories from both 6 bolt and 7 bolt cars crankwalking. I have a seven bolt in my car with 140k on it. When it goes I'm going to rebuild it not switch to a six bolt. On the other hand there are cars with 150k 175k getting crankwalk. I'd say knock on wood then build your seven bolt.
 
well i have the 6 bolt block and internals sitting. i was thinking about selling them and just rebuilding the 7 bolt mainly cause it would be cheaper not have to buy a kit and all to swap it.
 
well i have the 6 bolt block and internals sitting. i was thinking about selling them and just rebuilding the 7 bolt mainly cause it would be cheaper not have to buy a kit and all to swap it.

You just listed my exact reason for sticking to the 7 bolt. Less headache. There are some very good rebuild kits out there for the seven bolt. I would recommend doing the clutch mod so you dont have to push your clutch in when you start your car.
 
Unplugging your clutch switch so that your car will start without your foot depressing the clutch. This way it will alleviate pressure against the thrust bearing while there is no/low oil pressure aka. Startup.
 
Should be two switches at the top of your clutch pedal assembly inside the car. I can't remember which one it is off the top of my head but unplug one then make sure its in neutral obviously and try to start the car. If that doesnt work try the other one. Should just be able to unplug it though.
 
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