1g build up

[eclipsebandit]

this is what i have at this point, im a police officer so i dont make very much money and it is taking me a while build this, i am buying very little at a time, but this is just a project for days off and fun

2.3 stroker
HKS Cams 264 / 272
coil on plug set up
255LPH fuelpump
Venom camgears
Exedy flywheel
Exedy dual stage clutch
ARP headstuds
HKS SSQV Bov
Polyurethane engine mounts
aluminium drivewheels for oilpump and waterpump
the H beam aluminum rods
wiesco pistons .40 over

this is what i plan to get

fmic
750cc injectors
fuel rail
CryO² for the intake, fmic and fuel
dsm link, and im going to try to find a way to get a different chip so when i drag it so i can switch out the turbo and mani.
external oil cooler
the machine shop that is going to do the work said they have a full waranty, and they will fully balance everything and that i wouldnt have any balance shafts or anything.

any sugestions you all might have for me please post, i would greatly appreciate it, the intake manifolds i have right now is a 2g stock, 1g stock and a cyclone intake, unshure what to use or to build or buy a new one. thanks

 

[delta448]

Thanks for starting the thread. Post here instead of sending me more PMs and I'll just reply here. This way others can offer their opinions as well and you can hopefully get more help. As I said before, I'll be the first to admit I don't know everything.

The cyclone mani offers more flow, but in order for the butterflys to function correctly you'll have to rig it. The 2G can be ported with exceptional results but stock for stock the 1G would probably be the easiest for you to make the best use of.

 

[Rob10_99]

Those aluminum rods are junk for anything that goes on the street. They don't have a very long lifespan and they are aluminum which fatigues a lot faster than any steel.
What are your goals for the car? Just a fast street car or trailer queen?
Oh and thanks for doing your part as a police officer in the most overpoliced country in the world, GO USA!

 

[delta448]

From what I understand, it's not actually the rods that have the short lifespan, it's the rod bolts. It has to do with the heating and cooling. The rods expand differently than their cap bolts and after awhile the rod bolts either stretch or break. Like Rob said, not for a street car. Maybe for an all-out frequently torn down race engine.

 

[eclipsebandit]

ok, thanks about the rod advice, ill do some checking around, i had not heard that on the rods before. what is a good set of rods that will work? this is just going to be used for driving for fun and probably some drags once a month or so.
also i was told to step up the throttle body, what do you all think, i was told to step up to a 90mm and get an intake to match it?? i dont know if that much air flow is usefull or just over kill. thanks for the posts guys

 

[delta448]

Unless you want more than 600whp, I'd go with Eagle H beam rods. They're relatively cheap and proven to work well.

Upgrading the throttle body size will make the engine more responsive, but going too large can make the car seem "snappy". The throttle can end up feeling like an on/off switch. The size of the camwheel the throttle wire rides on and connects to is important in this respect. The larger bore TB will be less restrictive to airflow, but it's pretty useless without a better intake manifold. Your end horsepower goal will really determine if you should consider the extra cost of the mani and TB. How much horsepower do you realistically want to buy?

 

[dsm-onster]

Which turbo do you plan on running?

 

[jwcardy]

Those aluminum rods are junk for anything that goes on the street. They don't have a very long lifespan and they are aluminum which fatigues a lot faster than any steel.
What are your goals for the car? Just a fast street car or trailer queen?
Oh and thanks for doing your part as a police officer in the most overpoliced country in the world, GO USA!

Hmm aluminum rods are junk on the street? I will be running aluminum rods on my street driven bw s368 gsx build. There is nothing wrong with the rods. I know several people running aluminum rods and swear by them. To the thread starter, just do some research on the rods and make sure they are right for u and ## build because they arent for the average joe build...
-wes

 

[eclipsebandit]

right now i have a big 16g, i kind of want a smaller turbo so that i dont have a bad boost lag, i would step up a little bit but unsure on what turbo would be a good one, i have done a little bit more research and found that i probably wont be able to get my 500hp because im not wanting to run such a big turbo, but i will take as much as i can with the setup im working on. and about the tb, what would be a better tb for a stock intake mani until i decide what aftermarket intake mani i want to go with?? like i said before i had heard from others about the 90mm but is there one that i would be able to step up to for better flow until i get a better intake mani?

thanks alot for all of the posts guys, i appreciate you all helping with this, you all have helped me learn about these dsm's a little bit more.

 

[dsm-onster]

Aluminum rods do need to be pulled for inspection frequently. Here is what I was told: Aluminum is stronger and lighter but at decent temperatures all that changes. And only an inspection will tell whether or not a run caused enough heat to be an issue. Steel rods don't need that inspection because they are more consistant, high heat or low. Dropping the exhaust, center differential and driveshaft, oil pan, and pulling the head every 100 miles doesn't work well for frequent street driving. . .

Nevertheless, considering you're likely on a tight budget, you can't beat the hx40 6-blade in a BEP .55 a/r housing. Flows as much as a gt4088r and spools faster than a gt35r. Theyactually spool around the same as a gt3076. Another option that will be a little more expensive is the BW s258 which flows about as much as agt35r but also spools faster. After that, any turbos that spool remotely close to those and flow remotely as much cost nearly twice that. Garrett is not the place to go for fast spool. . .

 

[RoasT BeeF]

You dont need a new fuel rail. The stock rail will be sufficient. Just upgrading the feed line from the tank to -6 and getting a high flow fuel filter will be enough. I dont see an adjustable fuel pressure regulator anywhere on your list. You will need one.

A 90mm throttlebody sounds way overkill. I would recommend just getting the stock unit rebuilt and you can even have it bored out a little if you wish. Throttlebodys.Com